Excellent response but it deals with the manual setting. I believe he is talking about priority modes so if you're in Av aperture priority then EC (exposure compensation) will adjust the shutter speed and if in Tv Time or shutter priority then the EC will adjust the aperture. Now some cameras may, if required, also change the ISO when all other options have been exhausted.

If you're in program or auto modes then all bets are off. It's up to you to watch and see what the camera does. But as we all know, manual is the best for controlling EV (exposure value) results.
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Glad I could be of assistance. Hopefully the masses learned something as well. :thumbup:

There is a basic flaw in your statement that anyone can "CONSISTENTLY" take good photographs. It should read as 75% of the time they can TAKE good snap shots and they are happy in their ignorance.

Those with the knowledge can consistently MAKE a good photograph and we smile quietly at the great unwashed. :)

Possible dirt and sticky stuff in the keyboard. When was the last time you cleaned it?

The problem sounds as a mechanical issue and not a digital one such as a virus, malware etc.

Not sure where the masses get the idea that it can't be done in LR but I just burned 140 images with a couple of clicks from LR. I am using LR 3.6 on an XP system.

Here you go:
1. Highlight all the files to be burned (how ever you want to do that)
2. Click Export.
3. On the left menu choose the Lightroom Presets
4. Choose the Burn Full Size JPGs
5. At the top your burner will appear in the drop down. If you have 2 or more choose the one you want.
6. Make any changes to file names, sizing etc.
7. Choose Export at the bottom.
8. After prep it will ask you to insert a blank CD, do so.
9. It will prompt you for a CD name with a default of the current date, change if you wish.
10. Pour yourself a coffee while your CD burns.
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Shame to see all that work going into the car and then presenting a "snapshot" to show it off. No background checks, bulls eye framing. It could have been sooooooo much better with just a little fore thought behind the lens. :cry:

Another common problem is dual profiling. Where you tell the printer to profile the print and also let your software do profiling. It can make for some real interesting effects but most of them are baaaaad. Turn off one or the other.

I concur. Man up dude.
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Used it for years and still do but only for quick viewing. I made the switch to Lightroom several years ago and the only negative I have against it, is the ability to quick view files such as attachments. So I keep ACDSee around for that and it also gives me a quick "what if I did that" scenario to see if it's worth my while to import into LR.

Yes, I do this. It's my business.

Caution: your ignorance is showing.

The magical starting point your looking for simply does not exist. The starting point you need to find is right behind your eye balls. Let me explain:

1. I'm out shooting my grand kids playing soccer (football for you folks across the pond) so my starting point or priority is a somewhat fast shutter speed say 1/250 sec and move the aperture to correspond.

2. I'm out shooting a professional hockey game so my priority is really fast shutter speed of say 1/500 sec min. As lighting is restrictive my aperture is set wide open and I still can't get a proper exposure so I need to bump the ISO to achieve the proper exposure to keep the fast shutter speed.

3. I'm out shooting a mountain landscape so my priority is a large DOF (depth of field) so I set my aperture to f16 and move the shutter to correspond. (tripod as required)

4. I'm out shooting my really hot girlfriends (yes, I'm a guy) portrait while we visit the Eiffel Tower or some other popular iconic destination and my priority is a real shallow DOF. I set my aperture wide open to achieve the shallow DOF and set the shutter to correspond. The tower may not be in focus but that's OK as long as my subject (remember the hot girlfriend) is sharp, the tower is still recognizable but is soft and blurry so my RHGF is the focal point in the photo.

5. Same as #4 but I'm at the Grand Canyon and want both GF and canyon as sharp as possible. My priority is large DOF so I choose f16 and focus sharply on the GF or hyper focal distance. (run a search above for "hyper focal distance"; also applies to #3 above) With the large DOF both GF and canyon are in "acceptable" focus.

Please note that my ISO is almost always set to 100 as this gives me the best quality and the only time to increase it is when the aperture and shutter speed are at their limits such as in #2 above.

Also note that I have chosen an aperture of f16 and not f22 or higher as f16 or f11 will give me a better quality of photo overall. (run a search above for "sweet spot")

So to recap, you are the only one that can see the scene in front of you and know the result you are expecting so you need to exercise the grey matter to determine your priority or starting point for any given situation.

I hope this helps. :)

Did you read Markos problem?? He can see the photo in Library and Develop module so filters are not the problem. Maybe your trying to project your old problem to this situation. Sorry to say I have no other advice than to continue with Adobe. Good luck.

I'll report once test is done.

I reckon I'll need at least 50% overlap with the movement to combat the parallax. Portait was a given but as the shore is fairly far away I'll be using a zoom, but not too much. Just enough to keep excess sky and water down to a manageable quantity. The shoot isn't till May so I have time to test. I'll let you know the test results. :)