I took these the other night around the neighborhood. Minimal PP in LR all shots are hand held braced on the car window. Thoughts? I'm tough skinned, fire away.

If the camera has the firmware built in then LR will tether. If it doesn't then you need the proprietary software. My old 10D has to connect to the Canon software to be tethered (but why bother :?: ) from the 20D on up LR has no problems with tethering. I can't speak for the amateur line of Canons or other makes and models.

Two points to ponder, at a dance recital I can't fathom a need to tether. The audience would be interested in the recital and not the photos until after the dance is over. If it was me watching my child dance I would find the computer screen popping out the photos very distracting. Out in the lobby I would love to see all the photos but you could do a standard transfer as soon as the last dance ends and still beat the throngs of people. On the other hand you could use a wireless option so all photos are ready to show as soon as the last bow is taken.

In the interest of speed, the weakest link is the space between camera and computer which is usually a USB cord or firewire. But that is speed restrictive. So how does your NCCP2 do it's thing? Wireless, wired, or telepathically? Just curious.

Yes, LR 3 does indeed have tethering.

With all the accolades for Fastone and testing for the last couple of hours, consider me converted. :thumbup: :thumbup: I also discovered Fastone MaxViewer which also fits right in with our needs. As we are using it commercially we will pay for the licenses instead of donations.

Thanks to all that responded. :-D

Didn't think a smiley was required but it just goes to show... My bad. :roll:

I don't care what the moderator says, you guys are the best.

Fastone Image Viewer and Fastone Maxviewer it is. I'm a happy camper.

Hi Hoggers,

NOTE: this is not for standard photography use.

I am in need of software that is good for viewing photos almost exclusively. I am currently using ACDSee and Irfanview. The usage is 99% viewing of tiff files for a construction company. Maybe 1% of the time an adjustment needs to be made to them, mostly exposure and contrast. ACDSee is great but that involves a paid license and 99% is wasted as we don't use it to its full potential. Irfanview on the other hand is free but is restrictive when zooming in and out, making minor adjustments among other things.

Can anyone suggest a nice, easy to use and free program to use. We need to zoom in and out quickly, jump to the next page and quickly pan around each image. The ability to clean up an image of ink blotches from multiple faxing would also be a nice addition but we don't have that now so not imperative.

Online programs are out, only ones that we can install on each computer. Thanks in advance.

Why did you fuel her anger by saying what you did. I would have simply stated I was taking photos of buildings along the street and taken her out of the intent. Your comment sure sounds like a cheesy pick up line and puts you in her cross hairs. Now this may be mute if you were using a 500 mm tele sticking 2' out the window and aimed right at her.

When I shoot street I always make it look like I'm focusing on some background element and 9 times out of 10 they simply carry on. The 1 usually strikes a pose and a big smile and I oblige them. You need to make it seem that they are just serendipity and not the subjects of your (photographic) desire.

Funny, I came home from a broad and all I brought back was the clap. :lol:

But seriously, give your head a shake. You read one story in countless thousands and your ready to accept it as gospel? I also read horror stories regarding travel in Peru and none of it happened. Very nice place to visit and I wouldn't hesitate to go there again. But there are so many other places my cameras, lenses, netbook, cell phone, external hard drives, Giga Pan Epic Pro and let's not forget my wife and I would like to visit before senility sets in.

I looked into this problem before a month long safari in Africa and decided on a netbook. Same size and price as a tablet with oodles more storage room. Now I don't PP anything just upload the photos and on rainy days (there were none) I might watch a slide show. I had 4 cards and I only used 2 of them. JIC I also had an external HD for backup purposes, a small WD passport. I came back with over 6,000 photos and am very happy with my decision. YMMV :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Just a touch too much saturation for my liking but nice composition. It did give me warm fuzzies.

Excellent job here. It's nice to see a real HDR scene processed so nicely. I might have increased the warmth by just a few degrees but it may be my monitor showing the foreground as slightly blue. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Please remember that a RAW file is not a photo file. It contains all the data to create a photo file. When viewing a RAW file on your computer you are really looking at a computer generated jpg version of the data using the processing that your camera would have chosen. The process, in a nutshell, for shooting RAW is as follows:
1 download RAW file to computer
2 open a RAW processor program such as Adobe Camera RAW
3 computer generates a temporary jpg with base information for viewing purposes
4 assign any changes you wish to make with the RAW tools
5 the computer keeps track of these changes inside an XMP file commonly called a sidecar file (recipe card if you will)
6 when your happy you export the results to a finished jpg file in the location of your choice
6a or send current results to a PP such as Photoshop to continue editing
7 your raw file is always left untouched in its pristine state the only difference is the additional sidecar file with all your changes stored inside and has the same filename as the original RAW file but has the xmp extension instead of the CR2 or NEF extension

To recap, your RAW file is only a bunch of ingredients that after processing will become an actual photo file either jpg or tif. The computer must process a temporary default jpg to be able to view on screen that you can accept or change as you see fit. Then you create the actual photo file.

Unless you like looking at 1's and 0's you can not view a true RAW file.

Personally I love analogies so here is mine. Imagine a football game with the ball on the 1 yard line with 99 yards to go. With the switch set to the 1.8 m setting the wide receivers would have to line up at the 1 yard line BUT if you set the limiter to the 6.5 m setting then the wide receivers could line up at the 30 yard line. Now if the QB has a good arm then the majority of the passes will be long and this will benefit the wide receivers over the length of the game.

So if we normally only shoot photos beyond the 6.5 m limit then why waste the battery power to have the camera try and find focus at the closer limits. Yes, there will be occasions for it and then you can make the switch to the 1.8 m setting.

I did notice a comment regarding DOF but that is not the purpose of the switch. While focusing closer gives a shallower DOF that is true of all lenses. So the switch does not directly control DOF. The switch is a battery saver and not designed to be a DOF tool.

Hope this helps.