One person's idea of "anal" is many other peoples' idea of "organized". I prefer to call myself "organized" though my wife and sons don't always agree!

What I can't figure out is how so many online vendors do free shipping on things, from $1.00 items on up. Even from China! Free shipping has more attraction to me than no sales tax. And with orders arriving the day after they ship right to my door via USPS, the car can sit in my driveway!

Didn't your new Canon come with some editing software? Start with that.

When I have done no-payment interfamily transfers of cars there has been no sales tax required. You have to do a form for it, I think. But it probably depends on how "immediate" the family member is.

This will mean the end of the uncontrolled "Wild West" attitudes of ebay, Amazon, and others. Sucks to be big, wealthy and unregulated, doesn't it? My state (NY) years ago started making you pay an amount when you file your tax return to cover your untaxed online purchases, unless you say you didn't make any untaxed purchases. Apparently they take your word for it so far, but who knows....? If you go to register a car you bought in another state with a lower sales tax rate or from a private party, you have to pay the difference or the full rate at registration or you don't get registered!

Amen to ambidextrousness. As an IT Tech in a school district I saw cases of supposedly-intelligent people destroying one or more USB ports on their laptops by forcing (and it's not easy!) plugs into ports the wrong way.

Brand name shouldn't make a difference as to a micro SD card being compatible with an adapter. All you're dealing with are conductors from micro-card's contacts to the adapter's contacts.

Of course, it is entirely possible that an adapter could be finicky because of poor conductors/contacts internally or externally. I have had combos that didn't work, and putting the micro card in a different adapter does work.

Don't forget that contact cleanliness on micro card and adapter are a factor as well.

Lower megapixel count in a given area=larger pixels.
Higher megapixel count in a given area=smaller pixels.
With the same magnification amount (percentage) of two images from two different megapixel-count cameras, the pixels will be more apparent (if enough magnification to be able to distinguish them at all) on the blow-up from the lower megapixel-count camera. The lens has nothing to do with megapixel count/size. That is a property of the photosensor in the body.

I read somewhere, maybe on UglyHedgeHog but maybe elsewhere, that larger pixels are MORE sensitive to a given exposure than smaller ones.... Which could theoretically be a factor in the Df-16MP being better in low light than the D5300-24MP. How much "better" it has to be to be observable between two cameras is the question.

From the Wikipedia page on Depth of Field.....

"DOF is determined by subject magnification at the film / sensor plane and the selected lens aperture or f-number. For a given f-number, increasing the magnification, either by moving closer to the subject or using a lens of greater focal length, decreases the DOF; decreasing magnification increases DOF. For a given subject magnification, increasing the f-number (decreasing the aperture diameter) increases the DOF; decreasing f-number decreases DOF."

With a mirror lens the only way to change depth of field is to move further away from the subject, since the aperture is fixed.

Here's a primer on photographic reproduction for the novice, gleaned from a 60+ year career in printing and photography:

The "noise" the digital world speaks of is the physical structure of the image. In film photography, the image is formed by tiny metallic silver-halide particles. In digital photography the image is formed by little cells called "pixels". In film, it's called "grain".

Any reproduction process converts the infinite variation in shades/tones/colors of the physical world that your eyes see (referred to as "continuous-tone) to discrete little particles, whether it's silver-halide crystal grains or pixels or spots of ink.

In printing on printing presses (offset, letterpress, rotogravure,, screen printing, etc) original continuous-tone images are reproduced by "halftone dots."

On a printer, the image is formed by dots of ink or toner particles.

Enlarging an image done in any medium increases the particle/pixel/dot sizes. Enlarge them enough and you can start to see them. It can be harder with inkjet prints, though, because the ink dots tend to spread out on the paper, blending together. Same thing with rotogravure printing. That's why these give a better REPRESENTATION of continuous-tone.

The fineness of an image, measured by megapixels per square inch, halftone dots per inch, or printer dots per inch (DPI) determines how close you have to be and how much you can magnify an image before you see them. Looking at a billboard from the highway you see shades and tones. Look at it from a few feet away and you see great big dots. Look at your TV screen or computer monitor with a magnifying glass. See the pixels?

The "quality" of an image, whatever that means, measured by its resolution, is not an absolute. It is relative to how that image is being viewed by a human.

No, I am not a new user, just new to UglyHedgeHog. And I use capitals for emphasis, since italics and boldface aren't an option. Don't take it so hard.
How does my reply indicate that I "fit in with other users who go off the deep end", when I am suggesting just the opposite?

I see hardly anyone who suggests STARTING SIMPLE AND BASIC, then moving up to advanced, which can ALL BE DONE FOR FREE as your needs and abilities grow.
Why is this such an alien concept?

For Windows 10 you can start with the included PHOTOS app. Too basic for all you experienced folks, but so what?
For Windows, PAINT.NET is a very full-featured program. Read the description at https://www.getpaint.net
For Windows, Mac and Linux there's GIMP. Gimp is always referred to as equal to Photoshop. See it here https://www.gimp.org/

Has anyone on Ugly HedgeHog even seen any of these?

I have a Vivitar 500mm Canon FD-mount mirror lens. I was looking at FD-to-EF adapters to use it on my EOS 60D, and learned that mirror lenses typically focus PAST the infinity end of the scale.
So an adapter that doesn't have the lens elements required for infinity focus works great with the mirror lens. Full focus range from macro to infinity!
I got hold of a Fotodiox FD-EF adapter and took out the lens element. This is the only lens I use with the adapter. No distortion from the crummy element, and the adapter increases the focal length of the lens in addition. Of course there's no way I can hand-hold it, so tripod it is.

For a Windows user, you should take a look at a free program created some years ago by Microsoft developers (though it is not supported by MS). It's called Paint.net.

https://www.getpaint.net/

"Paint.NET is image and photo editing software for PCs that run Windows. It features an intuitive and innovative user interface with support for layers, unlimited undo, special effects, and a wide variety of useful and powerful tools. An active and growing online community provides friendly help, tutorials, and plugins.
It started development as an undergraduate college senior design project mentored by Microsoft, and is now maintained and developed by Rick Brewster. Originally intended as a free replacement for the Microsoft Paint software that comes with Windows, it has grown into a powerful yet simple image and photo editor tool. It has been compared to other digital photo editing software packages such as Adobe® Photoshop®, Corel® Paint Shop Pro®, Microsoft Photo Editor, and The GIMP."

There are high-level professional photo artists, self-styled photo artists, amateur photographers of all levels, those who just want to lighten or darken a photo, change tint slightly, crop a photo, and a whole world of things in between.

Someone who is asking about what program to use and sounds like they have little idea of what the are doing (yet) would be well-served to start SIMPLE and work up to whatever level they find they need. What good is the ultimate in bells & whistles if you can't figure it all out?

I encounter highest-tech snobs in photography, computing, cars etc. who erroneously think the most advanced thing is what everyone should use.

Just sayin'.