When I have finished processing a RAW file with Elements and click on "OPEN", the file opens in the JPEG/PSD editor, but as a PEF file, which cannot be edited further. I can save this PEF as a JPEG, open the JPEG and continue, but there must be a way to click "OPEN" in the RAW editor and have the file open in either JPEG or PSD. Any ideas??

I just checked the Smugmug web site, and they accept JPEG, GIF and PNG formats. They print only from JPEG. Look in their Help section.

Sometimes it seems as if RAW fanatics like nothing better than to belittle and humiliate JPEG shooters. I have found that with Elements, at least, the JPEG editor has all the editing offered by the RAW processing, plus the benefits of layers and masks. I shoot RAW + JPEG, and usually start with the JPEG. If I cannot achieve the results I want I go back and work with the RAW, but in truth, the end results are rarely improved.

Incidentally, I always save the original unedited JPEG, and often one or two PSD work files. As RAW people note, I can always go back to the original if I later dislike the edits I made along the way.

I have a Quantaray version. Set up is simple, take a test shot or two and review the results, then concentrate of focus, which can be the most difficult factor. You usually have enough latitude in PP to adjust exposure, but RAW might help. Don't plan on using these as walk-arounds, they are really best for ambush shooting with a tripod. See sample

I have both Lightroom and Elements. If I had to have just one it would be Elements without doubt or regret. Lightroom just does not offer the editing options of Elements. If Lightroom "folded" I would not bother replacing it.

Unless you have extra $ for additional lenses, a budget DSLR will come only with a kit lens of 18-55mm or so. Fine for landscapes and urban walkabouts, but too short for many subjects. They are also large and heavy, especially if you do find an extra lens.

A travel zoom, such as the Panasonic ZS40 or ZS50 will give you a good long reach, and a viewfinder for use on sunny, bright days when the rear display is invisible. They are also small and light enough to fit in cargo-shorts, or a small belt case. Unless you plan on making many very large prints, the images will be very good.

"Manual" modes are fine for subjects that just sit there, like your engine, because you can keep trying various settings until you find one that works. (I use manual for things like flowers). Subjects like animals, kids, sports etc usually photograph better with a little automation. .

I frequently compare some of my processed RAW images to JPEG images produced by the camera, and while I might be able to see the difference, rarely does a disinterested viewer without a great deal of coaching. The only advantage I have found is that I can manually apply adjustments to a portion of the RAW image, while the camera applies adjustments globally, but again a very small final difference. I have samples of a processed RAW image and a camera JPEG, but side by side, no one could tell the difference. Of course, RAW fanatics will say I just do not know how to process them to best advantage.

Best solution is to crop to the correct paper size before submitting the image to the printer. If you submit the image on line look closely and you may see the crop warning if you submitted size does not match the requested paper size. You then may be able to crop to your satisfaction while still on line. I like to crop to 10x14 (5x7) or 8x12 (4x6). I thing the long proportions look better than 8x10 most of the time.

What if all your images are in JPEG? Good question! A lot of very nice cameras (the Nikon P600, for example) take only JPEG photos. If the owner is an experienced user of an advanced editor such as Elements, but thinking they might be able to get better results from RAW, there may be a work around to give a RAW-like experience without buying a new camera. Try backing off the JPEG processing either by using the custom image function, or like in the P600, look for a one-button option that reduces almost all JPEG processing.

The result will not be a RAW image, but an under processed JPEG. If not edited out of camera this JPEG file will look a lot like a RAW image, pretty crummy. (So if you don't want to edited each one manually, don't try this) If you have a later version of Elements you can even open it in the RAW processor and get a feel for processing true RAW files. After making the adjustments in the RAW processor, Elements will let you continue on to the JPEG editor for additional processing.

Will you get better JPEG's than the ones straight from your camera? Well, like starting with true RAW files, it depends on the operator. If your camera "over-processes" everything, or the image would benefit from targeted edits rather than global edits, probably. But here is a way to try the RAW experience without buying a new camera.

Elements offers layers, blending and masks, which are essential for applying adjustments to select portions of the image. I have found that without these tools global adjustments might improve one area of the photo, but have an undesired impact on other areas of the same image.

Pixels are not the only factor to consider. I have an old Canon 5mp S50 with an excellent lens that I can use for very good 8x10 prints, but have seen cheap 8, 10 and 12 mp cameras that struggle to make decent 4x6 prints. Any camera with 12mp has enough for good, large prints. After 12mp other factors come into play.

Panasonic travel zoom, zs40 or the new ZS50

These photos were taken with a 400mm Quantaray pre-set ($9.50 on Ebay) mounted on my circa 2003 6mp Pentax K100d. I have tried several times to give this camera away without success. In spite of 49k "clicks", and a lot of internal dust I cannot get out, it still works well enough.

If your primary interest is video, why not get a "camcorder" designed for video instead of a still camera that can take video on the side? I have shot video with a both a mirror-less and a DSLR still cameras and a good quality camcorder and there is no comparison. The camcorder has many video valuable features such as power zoom while filming, fade in and out, boom mike and dedicated back-light button that are not features of the still cameras. Honest question and I would like other opinions.