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Posts for: gessman
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Feb 2, 2021 11:35:08   #
Picture Taker wrote:
If you want to continue with what you are using keep your f: stop up to f8 or above to give a larger range of in focus area.


He is using a fixed aperture lens f/8 at one focal distance and f/16 when zoomed. No other choices.
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Feb 2, 2021 11:31:26   #
BurghByrd wrote:
I didn't read all of the replies,


Perhaps you should.
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Feb 2, 2021 11:30:07   #
uws wrote:
The easiest way to shoot a manual lens is to set the camera for aperture priority. The camera will then set an appropriate shutter speed. You should probably use a manual ISO setting to force a higher shutter speed if necessary. Finally you may be too close for your lens to focus. That's why there are macro lenses.

Looking at your shots they are both under exposed and blurry. If it were me I would open the aperture a few stops and perhaps increase the ISO. This will force the shutter speed up.
The easiest way to shoot a manual lens is to set t... (show quote)


As stated, his lens has a fixed aperture that cannot be "opened up." Would that alter your answer to the problem?
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Feb 2, 2021 11:11:41   #
uhaas2009 wrote:
If you have the nikon 3xxx in your few finder button left is a green focus indicator use it. The 3xxx vs 810 is way stronger in manual-green dot-focus. For myself the manuell lens didn’t work because my eye signs aren’t 100%


I am not simply trying to be a troll here but after what happened in the first thread today, it makes it very difficult for me to want to say anything and the last thing I want to do is be unkind so I'll just ask a question - should something be said about this post and if so what, and is there any way to say anything without the risk of embarrassment? Should this post just be ignored? We're not talking simple typos and omissions here. We're talking gibberish that creates confusion. I can imagine that this thread could really confuse a newbie who might spend the rest of his/her life looking for the "few finder button left," and "didn't work because my eye signs aren't 100%."

What is "few finder button left?" Is it in the manual or should I just Google it? What is an "eye sign," how many does one person have and where and how do we find them? Those two simple things on top of the irrelevant comparison to another camera not involved in this discussion leads to almost total confusion to a new person who might think they are legitimate photography terms. I might be able to think I know what is being said here but do I really?

Are we looking at the words of a person having a stroke or is this person inebriated and should they be advised to not give advice that only creates more confusion while under the influence? I personally think there is a reasonable limit as to what is acceptable to those here who are trying to help people and I think this post exceeds that reasonable limit.

Should this kind of thing just go unchallenged? A person trying to learn probably isn't going to just ignore this but will want to know what exactly is being said and embark on a mission to have it deciphered for them. As a learner, you have to know the right answer in advance in order to be able to know when something is gibberish and should just be ignored and I think everyone who presumes to help learners should be held to a higher standard than this. Am I in this alone or does anyone have another answer?
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Feb 2, 2021 10:12:52   #
jerryc41 wrote:
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the focal length I'll be shooting. Zooming way in, focusing, and then zooming back to take the picture doesn't work for me. The techniques I use is to turn the lens one way till it's blurry, turn it the opposite direction till it's blurry, and then then pick a spot between the two blurry areas.

Don't go crazy trying to get "tack sharp" photos. If the picture looks good from a realistic viewing distance, then you've been successful. Besides, tacks aren't very sharp.
I may be wrong here, but I always focus at the foc... (show quote)


Tacks aren't easy to focus on either, are they?
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Jan 31, 2021 15:58:06   #
Gene51 wrote:
For most subjects I get fewer artifacts and better quality shooting raw and cropping than using the NRFPT (not ready for prime time) Clear Image Zoom on the RX10M4. If the subject is not in their image database, as they say in Brooklyn, "fahgettaboudit!" More pixels on a subject simply does not translate to more detail, sharpness or image quality. In your comparison series, is there a reason why you only have one higher resolution image and the rest are thumbnails? It's hard to judge quality on a thumbnail.
For most subjects I get fewer artifacts and better... (show quote)


Well, we undoubtedly function on a different level but what little bit I've used CIZ I don't see artifacts as you describe. That has been brought up by a couple of other folks but the difference I think that's causing different experiences is that the folks who brought up artifacts earlier were shooting at some shrubbery at a distance and CIZ was having a hard time keeping the leaves from curling up or swirling. I mostly shoot wildlife at a distance and strive to eliminate everything but the critter and I haven't had a single moose to curl up like holly leaves from a hundred yards out. I've only used it a couple of times when my target was out of range for how I wanted to shoot it and I couldn't get closer. I am aware of your method and agree that it might be best under many, even most, circumstances. As for "ready for prime tIme," neither am I so it's a fair match.

As for why I only posted one download, when I submitted that thread nearly seven years ago, we had 20mpx cameras for over five years and I figured everyone kinda knew what to expect of a 20mpx image blown up and my point was to demonstrate that the 12mpx at uhh normal display size wasn't appreciably different from the 20mpx at first glance and saw no sense in providing more than one to blow up to examine. Like we used to say a few years back, "if you've seen one, you've seen 'em all" or something like that. I can post all of them now but at this juncture, a 12mpx file comparison is a bit of a moot point.
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Jan 31, 2021 07:27:37   #
franbires wrote:
I have been struggling nailing in focus photos and I have become rather frustrated. I included this photo I took today of a bluebird on a stag horn sumac. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it. It seems my biggest issue is initially nailing the focus, especially with small subjects like songbirds. I was probably 30 yards away when I took this photo. Here are the specifics: Canon 5D Mark IV, EF 100-400 f4.5-5.6L IS II USM, Shot taken - Manual, 1/1250, f/8, ISO 2500 and AF Zone, 9-points and Back Button Focus. When I try to locate my subject, I hit the BBF and sometimes for whatever reason, I miss the focus. I have come to the realization it is not my equipment, but me. Has anyone else gone through this. This should have been a keeper but as you can see, it is far from it. Thanks, Frustrated Fran
I have been struggling nailing in focus photos and... (show quote)


I really hate to ask but I feel a need to, did you set up your bbf or have it done by someone like a camera store clerk or an experienced friend? Are you even sure bbf has been set up or are you just assuming it has and pressing a button on the back thinking it should work without even knowing if it has been set up or not? I did not see any indication in the exif that bbf was on and used but I am using unfamiliar equipment and exif reader.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:47:08   #
Horseart wrote:
Nocccalula Falls in Gadsden Alabama. Nothing but a tiny bit of straightening and cropping done to one of these to crop out some people.


Excellent. I'm gonna wait on the springtime version. That place will come to life with color and cover. I can imagine it but I'd rather see it
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Jan 30, 2021 10:08:38   #
gessman wrote:
Something else to consider to have coverage without the extreme expense of a dslr and an ultra long lens is to have a dslr and a moderate long lens and a bridge with you and when the dslr won't reach, use the bridge for those lessor quality but must get shots. My longest dslr lens is 400mm while the sx50hs reaches out to 1200mm effective and being retired, a hobbyist not overloaded with throwaway cash, I'm good with this setup. I keep the sx50hs in the car with me at all times and take it with my dslr when a wildlife opportunity presents.
Something else to consider to have coverage withou... (show quote)


You can pick up a full frame Canon 5dM2 or a crop sensor 7dM1 or M2 for around $500, a 400mm f/5.6 lens for $600 which will give you coverage for a lot of wildlife shots and a sx50, 60, or 70 used for around $200 for the longer shots and have pretty good coverage for a hobbyist.
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Jan 30, 2021 09:51:28   #
gessman wrote:
It is as everyone here has said, if you want to print small you might like the results. Moving targets can be a challenge as avoiding shake at long distances can be which can also be true with long dslr lens but you can also pop a bridge onto a tri- or mono-pod and use a remote trigger to add the stability you lose otherwise. If you just want to view your images on a computer, you may be happy with what you get from a bridge camera depending on which one you use. Probably the top bridge right now is the Sony RX10iv with its 1" sensor 24-600mm equiv lens, 20 megapixel and Sony's patented Clear Image Zoom, a form of artificial intelligence that lets you double the long end of the zoom to 1200mm effective range at the cost of not being able to shoot raw which you may not be interested in anyway. The RX also does 4k video if that interests you.

I did a comparison of a Canon 20 megapixel full frame vs. a Canon bridge SX50hs with a much smaller sensor than the RX10 and only 12 megapixels to see how they compared in uhh. The thread is at: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-263145-1.html
It is as everyone here has said, if you want to pr... (show quote)


Something else to consider to have coverage without the extreme expense of a dslr and an ultra long lens is to have a dslr and a moderate long lens and a bridge with you and when the dslr won't reach, use the bridge for those lessor quality but must get shots. My longest dslr lens is 400mm while the sx50hs reaches out to 1200mm effective and being retired, a hobbyist not overloaded with throwaway cash, I'm good with this setup. I keep the sx50hs in the car with me at all times and take it with my dslr when a wildlife opportunity presents.
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Jan 30, 2021 08:42:21   #
trapper1 wrote:
I was in the process of deciding which Nikon 300 mm or greater lens to buy and learn how to use prior to the upcoming north-bound migration of birds staging on our local river. I saw an ad on UHH for a bridge camera that offered reach far in excess of even 500mm. The question came to me as to why I, as a newbie, was considering a heavy DSLR tele lens when there are a slew of bridge cameras with vastly superior range at much less weight and much less cost than any similar DSLR lens. I understand a DSLR gives far greater flexibility for creative talents than any bridge camera can provide but for a newbie such as I, it appears that the bridge cameras could easily handle most of the shots I take on my DSLR. The bridge cameras now seem to have most of the capabilities formerly available only on DSLR camera with appropriate lens with the exception of macro. Would appreciate considered opinions on this issue. Trolls need not respond, save your put-downs for other websites.
I was in the process of deciding which Nikon 300 m... (show quote)


It is as everyone here has said, if you want to print small you might like the results. Moving targets can be a challenge as avoiding shake at long distances can be which can also be true with long dslr lens but you can also pop a bridge onto a tri- or mono-pod and use a remote trigger to add the stability you lose otherwise. If you just want to view your images on a computer, you may be happy with what you get from a bridge camera depending on which one you use. Probably the top bridge right now is the Sony RX10iv with its 1" sensor 24-600mm equiv lens, 20 megapixel and Sony's patented Clear Image Zoom, a form of artificial intelligence that lets you double the long end of the zoom to 1200mm effective range at the cost of not being able to shoot raw which you may not be interested in anyway. The RX also does 4k video if that interests you.

I did a comparison of a Canon 20 megapixel full frame vs. a Canon bridge SX50hs with a much smaller sensor than the RX10 and only 12 megapixels to see how they compared in uhh. The thread is at: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-263145-1.html
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Jan 28, 2021 21:22:53   #
TucsonDave wrote:
For the past 23 years of my 52 years working life, I was an owner of an Engineering Business. ALL businesses base charges for their product or service on costs; equipment, labor, and overhead. The fact that businesses bet a "write off" over maybe 7 years, doesn't change the fact that we have to PAY now or over time with INTEREST. There is no free ride. Also, most all of us started at the bottom. We couldn't buy top of the line equipment. As we saved over the years, we were able to purchase better computers, earthmovers, and better staff. ALL to provide a better product. Just as a curiosity, have you ever had the guts to open your own business?
For the past 23 years of my 52 years working life,... (show quote)


You're talking apples and oranges here. Your equipment is much more expensive and if you don't have big bucks up front the only way for you to the top is as you describe, an issue that doesn't apply in this situation and yes I have engaged. I dont disagree with the process I merely defined it. I think the system ultimately leads to fostering talent to the top which is the aim. Do you know the term, "devil's advocate?"
EDIT: By the way, I've never been interested in being a pro photographer so we're not talking "sour grapes" here.
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Jan 28, 2021 20:46:55   #
I probably don't need to point this out but the pros who get the A1 and the other top line cameras and the desired lens and accessories will charge them off as business expenses, or depreciation, and the cost will be distributed across the backs of all people who pay taxes so most of us will be buying all those cameras that provide the strategic equipment advantage the pros will have over the rest of us. A bit contradictory to our own interest, to say the least, especially regarding those of us who would like to have that gear but won't get it because we "can't afford it," especially those of us who aspire to be a pro but try to compete with the pros with less quality equipment because we "can't afford it," while we're chipping in to buy all that same gear for those pros. And please, all you people who think the photographer is all that matters, shut the hell up. If the top gear didn't matter, it wouldn't be made, even if it is only weather sealing - you can't shoot a football game in the rain with a d3500. On behalf of the taxpaying members of uhh, you're welcome, Mr. and Ms. Pro. Now Mr. and Ms. PRO what say YOU? It will be interesting to see how many more tell us about buying the Sony A1 and $20k to $50k for lens. Now we know why more pros aren't telling us about buying it, 2 out of over 100,000. Hmmm.
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Jan 28, 2021 16:16:02   #
ggenova64 wrote:
What is blackout?


Have you ever thought of using Google for your answers rather than killing a thread by changing the flow of a conversation from what it was to an argument over the answer to your question?
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Jan 28, 2021 15:24:03   #
Fredrick wrote:
Fujifilm just announced their 102mp MEDIUM FORMAT compact camera for $6,000! That’s the camera professionals will drool over.


..."some" professionals, yes, but the 5fps will likely stop it from being "most" when the Sony A1 is doing 30fps.
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