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Oct 13, 2018 11:01:39   #
jerryc41 wrote:
I've been getting email from eBay about this for quite a while. Why wouldn't politicians want to collect more tax? Eventually, if you live in NY and make a purchase from a seller in CA, you'll have to pay sales tax on that. Yes, you will have to pay state sales tax on a sale that did not take place in your state. And that makes sense?


Jerry - we (in NY) have been required to pay the sales tax for quite some years - if you buy a product from out of state (and for which sales tax was not collected) you are required to declare that when you file your NYS income tax return and pay the tax at that time. The issue is not where you purchased the item, but where it was delivered to you that makes you liable for the sales tax.
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Oct 13, 2018 10:56:57   #
d2b2 wrote:
I received this as an email this morning. This is not a matter of me pushing Service Photo - although it is definitely my photo equipment and supply store of choice - but a comment on the state of the marketplace, related to Internet purchasing. Moreover, could this mark the resurgence of the retail camera store?

I believe that you will be seeing this more and more in the not too distant future. Some states, including NY where I live, require you to declare any and all on-line purchases made from companies outside of NY (and for which sales tax was not charged) when you file your state income tax return. At that time you must pay the tax that should have been collected at the time of purchase. As internet sales have now achieved dominance over store sales, states are losing major tax revenues and those need to be made up.

Oct. 12, 2018


Important Message Regarding Sales Tax

Starting today, many large internet sellers of photo & video gear will be required to charge sales tax to their customers in many states - including customers from Maryland.

As MD's only specialty camera store, we've always worked hard to keep our prices competitive. Our prices for most major brands of gear & accessories are identical to those of our largest online competitors. Still, many Maryland photographers have purchased their cameras, lenses, lighting, & accessories from outside MD, simply to avoid the 6% sales tax. This disadvantage has now been erased, and we are now on an equal playing field with our online, out-of-state competitors.

We're hoping that this new development will allow us to serve more Maryland photographers than ever before. Of course, we'd love to welcome everyone to our Baltimore showroom & present our wide selection of new & used camera gear. But, we're equally excited to ship camera gear to photographers from Western MD, the Eastern Shore, & other outlying areas of MD who have traditionally ordered from sources out-of-state. (Ground Shipping is always free for orders over $50)

Our business outside MD is very small, & we do not need to charge sales tax to those customers at this time. We will monitor this situation continuously, and keep you informed if anything changes.

Please contact burke@servicephoto.com with any questions about the new sales tax changes, or anything else. We appreciate the opportunity to serve photographers throughout the USA, including our home state of MD, more than ever before!


Join us on a trip to PHOTO PLUS EXPO in New York City!
With so many NEW Products to see, This is a great year to attend Photo+!

Service Photo presents round trip bus transportation to & from Photoplus Expo on Thurs.10/25.
We'll fill 2 or 3 buses with photographers from this region, and the cost is just $60 per person.
Paid riders on our buses will each receive a $25 Service Photo voucher + other promotional
products from various vendors. Total value worth HUNDRED$ from our vendors!
• Buy your bus ticket here
• Register for Photo Plus Expo - FREE - HERE
• Click to see all of the exhibitors at the Expo
• Find out why you should attend here.
Registering for this event can be a little bit of a chore. Take your time, and go through the process
step-by-step. You can get through this registration process without paying anything -
just decline all of their offers, and use our special LINK!

Remember - our bus trip ticket is a separate purchase from the Expo registration. You must register for the PhotoPlus Expo& buy a ticket for our bus separately at the different links in this email!

Please call us, or email salesteam@servicephoto.com
for more information. This will be a fun & productive day trip for Maryland Baltimore area photographers!
I received this as an email this morning. This is... (show quote)
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Oct 12, 2018 19:02:08   #
aphelps wrote:
I am shooting with an Oly em-1 set on aperture priority. As I adjust EC, which function is the camera actually changing. Is it aperture, ISO, shutter speed or some combination. Now consider the same question but with flash added. In that case it the flash output/duration or some combination of all four variables? I have checked manuals and reference books but have not found the answer. Do any of you hoggers know how it works? Your help would be greatly appreciated.


If you are in aperture priority the aperture will stay where you put it. Typically it will be the shutter speed that will be adjusted if you dial in some exposure compensation - and that will be absolutely the case if you have selected a specific ISO setting. I you select auto ISO the shutter speed will be adjusted unless it hits some limit that you have set, after which the camera will adjust ISO.
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Oct 10, 2018 12:28:08   #
drdcs0025 wrote:
We are all getting older whether we like it or not. I find that my hands don't work as well as they used to and I am not using my DSLR. I need to decrease weight and decrease the need to make lens changes. I have looked at the mirrorless options and they either don't fit in my hand or when paired with a zoom lens with my most often used focal lengths, they are to heavy. I am thinking about going to a bridge camera. Although it is a move backwards in flexibility, sensor size and available megapixels, it is much better than a phone camera which is what I find myself using now. I am considering the Nikon P1000, the Canon SX70 and the Sony RX10 IV. I would appreciate your advise and any other options that I should consider. Money is not a consideration; being able to enjoy photography again is.

Thanks
We are all getting older whether we like it or not... (show quote)


If money is not an issue - I would recommend the RX10 Mark IV from among those you list - unless you feel you really need an equivalent focal length beyond the 600mm available on the Sony. You would gain the advantages of a 1 inch sensor versus the much smaller sensors found in the Nikon and Canon cameras. As well, the Nikon is actually a rather large camera and the very long end of its focal length range is virtually unusable without a tripod - so you would be right back to carting a lot of heavier gear.
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Sep 30, 2018 13:25:30   #
karenmr wrote:
May I please have some help with some hints on how to get my images in better focus. These photos were taken with Canon 80D and Tamron 24-70 lens. My daughter did some posing for me. Her face is out of focus in every shot I took. I used single point focus on her eyes in every shot. Is this camera shake or am I doing something wrong?


You left out some key information (and I'm assuming here that you are not experiencing an issue with a lens that is a bit out of kilter - either front or back focusing and in need of adjustment) - what was your focal length, aperture and shutter speed for each image? If using a relatively long focal length at a wide aperture your depth of field becomes rather restricted - which is beneficial in terms of creating an out of focus background - but can also create the sort of issues you are describing here. Once your camera locks focus, if either you or your model moves even a fraction of an inch forward or backward it can take the edge off the sharpness. One solution - don't shoot wide open - stop down a bit to give yourself a bit more latitude on dof. If your model is fairly far from the background you should still get a good deal of background blur not too far afield from what you have here. Camera shake can also be an issue - from what I can tell here it doesn't look like that - what was your shutter speed? How steady are you generally in hand holding a camera? Maybe eliminate that variable by re-doing the shots but with your camera on a tripod.
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Sep 27, 2018 21:23:46   #
There are three parameters to consider when discussing depth of field - aperture, camera to subject distance and lens focal length. Many people will tell you that cameras with smaller sensors are the problem and that larger sensors provide less depth of field - that is not actually true. What you are faced with is that cameras with smaller sensors take in a narrower field of view at any given focal length and/or camera to subject distance. To get the framing of the photo that you want, therefore, you either have to move further from the subject and/or use a shorter focal length lens than would be required to achieve the same framing when shooting with a camera with a larger sensor. Increasing camera to subject distance and/or using a shorter focal length lens will both increase your depth of field. In your circumstance you are likely a fair distance away from the action and that long camera to subject distance is working against your efforts to achieve a shallow depth of field.
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Sep 12, 2018 20:25:00   #
Silverman wrote:
Ok, I am confused.
I have a Nikon D3300 DX camera, if I shoot an image, then have it Printed as an 8x10, will I get an actual 8x10 photo? Or will I get a "cropped" print. What size will my printed photo actually end up?


If you enlarge an image taken with your D3300 you will keep the 3:2 aspect ratio - and so, if you enlarge the shorter side of the rectangle to 8 inches, the longer side will be 12 inches. If you want to print an 8 x 10 you need to crop the equivalent of 2 inches from the long side of the full frame image.
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Sep 12, 2018 19:25:42   #
Ed Chu wrote:
actually, someone else wrote Part 1

I have a Nikon D810 FF with lenses, D500 with Tamron 18-400, and a Lumix G85 with 12-100 and 100-400 OM lenses; I would like, at the largest to print 16x20, but ,in reality, have not done so in years. Would eventually like to slim down to the Lumix / OM 4/3 system to shed weight ( would consider keeping the D810 ). Has anyone out there shed their FF / APS-C systems to go to 4/3 ?


As in your case, I have used primarily Nikon SLR system cameras (film and then digital) for many decades - until several years back when I purchase my first mirrorless camera (a SONY A6000) - the image quality with that camera was equal in every way to the quality one could obtain from Nikon DX DSLR cameras. Since then, I have also acquired a LUMIX MFT system - and I now have a series of native lenses for both systems as well as "dumb" adapters that allow me to use my older Nikon manual focus and AF Nikkor lenses on either camera. In terms of percentage of shooting now - my DSLR cameras (nil), the SONY system 10-20%, and 80 to 90% on the MFT platform. I also added a LUMIX LX100 recently which is MFT with a fixed 24-75mm (equivalent) f/1.7-2.8 lens - that camera has all the controls on dedicated dials and buttons that anyone could possible want and the image quality is superb.

Do I miss the DSLR days - not really - see no reason to cart all that extra bulk.
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Sep 12, 2018 19:14:58   #
ChrisKet wrote:
UHH Community - I'm a grandma who has been shooting photos forever, mostly of the kids sporting events and family functions; but, I'll admit I didn't really know what I was doing and got really lucky sometimes. Since retiring a couple of years ago, I've taken some classes at our local community college and now am shooting with my Nikon D7100 and primarily my Tamron 18-400 f3.5-6.3 lens; I'm much more confident shooting in Manual or Aperture priority now.

I've been reading all the comments about crop factor and am wondering if I should be considering crop factor when composing my shots. I tend to get up close and personal and fill my lens viewer with my subject, be it a face or a flower or a building or a bear; but am starting to think that I should not get AS up close and leave some room top/bottom/sides. (I'm pretty good with using Lightroom for PP.)

Am I missing something, misinterpreting what I'm reading, or way off base? Thanks for your help!
UHH Community - I'm a grandma who has been shootin... (show quote)


Not sure I'm totally understanding your question - what you are seeing in your viewfinder as you compose your image is the portion of your lens' image circle that is captured by the sensor - whatever size that might be. If your Tamron lens is a Di II lens, it is scaled down (in regard to image circle) for an APS sized sensor (what Nikon refers to as DX) - your field of view is different than if a similar focal length is used on a camera with a different sensor size - which is where the "crop factor" is used to compare your DX camera to a full framer.

As far as how tight you should compose images - that's another issue and it is unrelated to sensor size. If you a) prefer not to crop images and b) you are content with all images being in the same aspect ratio - then compose tightly. Just keep in mind that you may have limited ability to print in different aspect ratios should that need arise. I often shoot with a little looser composition - especially if I suspect I might want to crop to change the aspect ratio - leaving myself some margin for error.
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Sep 11, 2018 12:15:10   #
BG.pictu71 wrote:
I am trying to send a folder containing 65 pictures to a friend. I am not sure how best to do this.


Put them in an album on either Google Photos or Flickr and then simply email your friend a link
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Sep 5, 2018 07:10:19   #
AndyH wrote:
That's the $64 question. Why on earth would anyone want to set this option to allow shooting without a card?

Any ideas?

Andy


Perhaps the camera allows shooting while tethered to a computer?
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Sep 3, 2018 11:37:30   #
anotherview wrote:
Note that if you use mirror lockup, then you press the shutter button twice -- once to move the mirror out of the way and once more to release the shutter. A cable release allows for both of these actions, one after the other.

You the photographer can pause for a couple of seconds after the mirror lockup to allow the camera to become still before releasing the shutter.

The self-timer, as I understand it, differs here because it moves the mirror and then operates shutter release in a quick sequence. The operation of the mirror introduces a minute motion that very slightly blurs the image because the shutter releases during this motion.
Note that if you use mirror lockup, then you press... (show quote)


I agree with you about the mirror issue - I failed to mention that I now shoot exclusively with mirrorless cameras so that part of the equation is absent for me.
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Sep 2, 2018 12:32:21   #
tomcat wrote:
I bought a very well kept OM-1 MD camera this afternoon at a yard sale. There are no scratches on the body and no apparent wear marks on any of the controls. The timer lever on the front appears to be broken as it did move to the cocked timer position, but will not count down. The battery still was good and the needles matched what the sunny-16 said it should be for an exposure, so I figured the meter is accurate. The lens did not have a lens cap, but the camera was in an Oly leather case. The lens did not appear to have any scratches. The lens is a Zuiko auto-S 50mm f/1.8. I think I found a real treasure. Now just to get a roll of film and try it out.

Did I find a treasure or not? It was only $15
I bought a very well kept OM-1 MD camera this aft... (show quote)


Assuming the camera is working well - yes - you got an excellent deal - the lens alone is worth more than what you paid
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Sep 2, 2018 12:29:41   #
Another thing that I have been doing recently (where the photo situation allows) is using the self timer set at 2 seconds. One of the biggest culprits when hand holding the camera is shake that you introduce when pressing the shutter button. So I decided to try using the timer - by the time the camera actually fires I have steadied the camera - and, at slower shutter speeds, my percentage of images without obvious camera shake improves quite a bit.
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Aug 30, 2018 14:22:16   #
stanperry wrote:
The church is private. That’s irrelevant. The kid is a minor. That’s not. Taking his picture without parental consent is legally dicey. Publishing his photo without a signed release is illegal.


Taking a publishing photos of children is something I would not do - but where are you getting the idea that publishing a photo of a child is "illegal?"
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