Costa Rica is well worth the effort to carry more glass. I wish I had my Canon EF 100mm f2.8L IS lens with me for the insects I came across. I did take the Canon EF 70-200mm f4L IS USM, and my Canon EF 300mm for the Howler monkeys. I took the ultra wide for some of the volcano shots. Don't forget the ample bird population too.

B

Canon has a wider variety of lenses. Remember you're not limited to Canon EF-S lenses for cropped sensors, but EF, and EF L quality lenses. I like the response which recommends the 80D over the T6 Rebel. The Rebel line is a entry level line of cameras, but the XXD line is more like a semi-pro, and is more robustly built. In any event you'll find if you print the manual, and place it in your lap and try all the features of the camera it will shorten the learning curve before you have to learn while shooting in the field.

B

There are stone fences all over New Hampshire. I have one that transverses our property in Bow, NH. This is because there is ample granite stones everywhere, and must be cleared to build, plant. To see all the listed places, you'll have to leave your home State and look around.

B

I surprised those States who collect Sales Tax are wanting the Supreme Court to review the issue. The Constitution is quite clear on interstate taxing on goods and services across state lines. The section you should read about this tax issue is in the section that deals with Interstate Commerce. Amazon is a key culprit in bring this issue to light by starting to collect sales tax on purchases. But, Amazon made a deal with those States to keep 2% of the collected to pay for the record keeping and expense. Just by moving from Louisiana, to New Hampshire, I've saved more than $2000.00 on just sales tax alone, and more savings since NH has no personal income tax.

B

Now you know the reason for all those "Do not feed the animals" signs in the Parks.

B

Each lens manufacturer gears the production of every lens they make to a certain market. A 50mm f1.8 lens costing about $150.00 is directed to the basic amateur market, and the 50mm f1.4 is directed to the professional photographer. It's much like GM with its Chevy line, and Cadillacs, you wouldn't expect to buy a Caddy for Chevy price tag would you? But, with your reasoning you could do it.

B

If you're really shooting a lot with your new 5D M4, you'll find it is light years ahead of your old 60D with all the 5D M4 features. But, don't give up on the 60D quite yet. Since you still own all those EF-S lenses, just note which lenses you use the most for each type of shot, then look at the Canon catalog for like mm value lenses in the "L" or EF series. Your new lens the 24-105mm covers a good bit of mm for normal shots, and will perform well above normal on the 5DM4. Try to keep your lenses either within the Canon EF, or "L" quality, or third parties "better" or "best" full frame glass to get the optimal performance of imaging from your 5D M 4. (Tamron makes SP, or special glass for their lenses, and Sigma makes the "Art" line for their top glass) You'll also want to print out the 5D Mark IV manual, and place in your lap while you go through all the settings mentioned in the manual, to get familiar, and test them out and see which ones you'll be using most. Don't be afraid to make notes and refer back often. The learning curve between the two cameras is daunting, but don't give up. Unless your 60D is now a brick, mount your new 24-105 to it and take a look at the results. You'll see a greater image angle due to the crop factor. But you'll only be limited by the bells and whistles of the 60D. I still use my old 50D for some shots, and use my 100-400mm lens for some wildlife or birdie shots.

B

I'd like to give my 2 cents. When vacationing, I like to shoot scenery. I researched the available ultra wide angle lenses available for my then "new" Canon EOS 6D. I found that the most versatile lens in that category was the Canon EF 16-35mm f2.8L USM lens. I did not then, nor now found that IS was important, since scenery is "static" and does not move. I shoot this lens mostly on a tripod, but in better light I can easily hand hold this lens, adjust the ISO, or shutter speed to give me the perfect shot. Since buying the 16-35mm lens I've upgraded to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV. The 16-35 seems to really shoot even better on the 5D MIV. Being a larger lens than the f4, on the 5DMIV it seems to be better balanced, and with one hand on the bottom of the lens for support, and the other on the camera. The f2.8 will allow faster shutter speeds when hand held, in low light situations, thus sharper images. I do shoot all my landscapes in RAW, and make color adjustments and remove haze in lightroom. While living in New Orleans, and now living in New Hampshire, this lens has become my "go to" lens for all my landscapes. I've been watching and listening to other who have bought and shoot with the Laowa 12mm lens. The touts a zero distortion lens. These ultra wide angle lenses are susceptible to some degree of barrel distortion. So, at 12mm and smaller you must consider this type of distortion. Laowa seems to have overcome this problem, but their lenses tend to be manual focus, but setting up a landscape shot infinity will almost always be the best focus point. As far as your original post, why not rent the 16-35 Canon lens, and evaluate your results before you pull the trigger.

B

I'm wondering if the card is actually bad in some sort of way. When I have a read/write problem with a card (your problem is a write problem) I will attempt to write something else to the card. Install the card into the camera, shoot some RAW photos to the card. Download the photos to the computer, then check the photos and see if the card correctly writes to the card. Reformat the card in the camera to erase all the images. Install the card into your card reader and then move a program to the card, and see if the card will write to the card. This will either make or break the card problem down to a decision point of either a good or bad card.

B

It appears to me all the photos were shot from the very same point, through the players bench. Viewing the photos it seems the "lines" are projected onto the lens from above or from the side of the bench. I have two lights in my basement that have metal, and glass covers that will project this type of pattern on the outer protective cover. Hope this helps.

B

I'm a bit sceptical of such a "good deal". Take a look at the offer from the "Pros" point of view. The 60D is a "old" camera, with a cropped sensor. Why would a "Pro" trade such a professional grade, full frame sensor camera for a older model cropped sensor camera. Everything about this trade has a slight smell about it. Not until you have the 1DS Mark III completely checked out by a competent camera shop, or Canon itself, would I complete such a deal. How did the rear screen get cracked? would be my first question, rear screens are pretty resilient, and don't crack without some force on them. If the camera was dropped, there could be other problems hiding in the wings. As for the value of the trade, look at KEH for a used 1DS M III.

B

Using a zoom with such a zoom range, and expecting sharp photos throughout its range is a tall order. I shoot with a Tamron 18-270mm on my cropped bodies but only for my personal vacation photos. I don't know exactly what you mean in your original post, by "good". I find my definition of "good" differs from most on the side of "sharp". Keep in mind, a lens going from 18-400mm bends a lot of light, which introduces a good bit of different deflections that will cause the lens to produce just "good" photos. But, these lenses are usually less expensive, light weight, and easy to use as a "walk-around" lens. Using one of these lenses you must be aware they do not have a constant aperture, meaning as you zoom you may have to be aware of the light, and change your setting appropriately.

B

I see by your past posts you are going to be shooting with a 6D. So, you will only be able to shoot with a "EF" or "EF L" quality lens. Canon makes several high quality lens in the ultra wide angle size. I personally use a 16-35mm f2.8L USM, or you may want to look into a EF 24-105mm. You mention, "not wanting to break the bank" so I assume the funds are limited. If you're looking for a specialized lens for a trip, you may want to rent from one of the lens rental companies. The rental will be much less expensive than buy a new model. These lens rental companies will sell you a used lens sometimes, for a excellent discount.

B

First off, take a look at all the switches on the back of your camera, now turn the camera on its side (with the lens attached) and notice possibly two switches on the side of the lens. One switch will be labeled "AF" (Auto Focus) and the second, if the lens is equipped with IS (image stabilization) the second switch will be labeled "stabilizer". Set the first switch to AF, and the stabilizer switch to on. These switches may be the root of your problem. Now, turn on the "live view" and you will see exactly what your camera lens is seeing. If the image is now out of focus, press the shutter button half way down, and the lens should focus on the subject. Press the shutter button all the way and the camera will take the photo. A couple other things to check, 1. be sure the new lens is fully mounted to the camera by trying to turn the lens until it firmly clicks into place in the mount. 2. When looking into the live view screen move the outer ring of the lens to put the lens out of focus on the live view screen. 1/2 press the shutter button, and watch the live view screen snap into focus. Dealing with the Ugly Hedge Hog, when posting a photo, click the little box marked "Store Original". This will allow all the people who try to help you see how your camera is setup when you took the photo. This information is automatically stored in the digital date in your photo, and is revealed when you set "Store Original" The date is called "Metadata" and is a wonderful tool to diagnose problems in your set up. I hope this helps you.

B

I stopped shooting weddings at my fourth wedding, but am constantly ask why. The list of reasons could go on from, not being paid, to many hands in the pie by cell phone pros, finally, none of my shots were acceptable by the mother of the bride, I shot over 1000 shots. About how to hire a photographer, the bride, or other family member must vent the photographer, see some actual shots of a recent wedding, know what type of questions to ask the photographer, talk about equipment as to lenses and cameras used, and don't forget the lighting. How many shooters will be in the photographers party, and set dress standards. Personally I feel the photographer, and assistants should be like ninja's and become part of the background. There are subtle things the photographer should ask about, like the access to the venue prior to the wedding or reception for lighting set up etc. The photographer must set the rules for "proofs" and how they are to be viewed, and also the ownership of the actual shots. The photographer should "own" the photos, and reproduce the shots the family want to buy for the album.

B