cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

It was a JOKE my friend! Best of luck.

gessman Loc: Colorado

I was going to comment on the issue of getting a good exposure without a meter but I think I'll just refrain.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

It might be a good subject for another thread.....

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

I already did that 10 months ago: Exposure Value - No metering used.

srt101fan

Deleted

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Did you buy this from shutterstock or did you create it ypour self?

R.G. Loc: Scotland

To anybody who isn't interested in reading though all 17 pages and has just jumped to the end, you'll find a summary of the thread HERE.

And for further clarification I'll repeat the following comment from another post:-

No, the thread is NOT about what's "manual" and what isn't, and yes it IS about the misconception that M+AutoISO takes control away from the user (when the truth is it's a simple and effective way of giving the user TOTAL control over the exposure variables).

Perhaps I should have mentioned at the very beginning that this thread may be of special interest to anybody whose camera doesn't have a direct or simple method of controlling ISO manually, and/or their camera has only one adjustment wheel. AutoISO in Manual mode (where the camera provides that option) completely negates both of those limitations.

Elmerviking

RG..it is even simpler than you say when you,like most more advanced cameras, have command dials(wheels). For example on my Nikon D7100 the front wheel adjust aperture and the rear wheel adjusts shutter speed. With auto ISO you chose what is most important, either aperture (DOF) or shutter speed(camera or subject movement).
For example:
Landscape photography: You probably want more DOF and low ISO with the camera on a tripod.
So what to do
1/ chose aperture
2/Adjust Shutter-Speed until you reach the low ISO (probably base ISO=100)
Take the photo. Check result. Too bright? Set EC to minus take another shot and check and adjust EC if needed.
You have full control just as you say!


In the studio with constant light:
Exactly the same procedure. If nothing changes the auto ISO will not change!
Some here claim that the light is constant in a studio and they therefor don’t need to change ISO.
Auto ISO actually is an advantage even in a studio! The light intensity can vary due to sudden voltage changes. One of the lights can be dimmer without the photographer notice it. Murphy’s law...if anything can go wrong it will sooner or later! Auto ISO will adjust to compensate, which is an advantage.Fixed ISO will need a manual operation, iF YOU DETECT THE DIMMED LIGHT!
If the light suddenly changes ISO will change maybe one step..but nobody can tell the difference in noise!
To sum it up:
There is NONE advantage in choosing a fixed ISO!
It doesn’t matter if the rock has been in the same spot for millions of years...it doesn’t matter if you are in a studio or whatever.
Manual mode with auto ISO gives you full control in most situations!
The only exception I can think of now is when you use spotmetering where the exposure is measured where the focus point is. Then you have to lock in the ISO manually. But...if the light changes you have to adjust shutter speed, aperure or ISO. Handheld you can program a button, for example the Fn button to lock exposure, but you have to press the button down .,hold it pressed and take the photo.
Shortly..I agree with everything you said!
There is unf

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Thanks for your constructive input. The only difference between what you're saying and what I've been saying is how aperture would be adjusted. With two wheels, one of them controls aperture. With one wheel you have to hold a button down to adjust aperture. Apart from that, everything that you said about the shooting procedure is exactly what I said.

Re your comment that there is never an advantage in using fixed ISO, that very subject is being discussed in another thread HERE.

In that thread the OP cites the situation where the background brightness changes significantly while the brightness of the subject remains roughly constant. For example if a bird comes in to land and the background that it's seen against changes from bright sky to dark water. Auto ISO would have the exposure jumping all over the place, whereas fixed ISO would allow the exposure to be chosen to suit the subject, regardless of what the background was like. It's not an everyday situation, but for wildlifers it's not an unusual situation.

Elmerviking

Well in that case you use spot metering and lock the exposure with the AE-L button. Spot metering is tied to the focusing point. If you follow a bird in flight with he focus point on the bird and spot metering you still can use auto ISO, still no difference. Of course you have to use EC to get the correct brightness of the bird if it is not 18% grey. Auto ISO would work perfect in that case also!

R.G. Loc: Scotland

I think everybody agrees with "lock the exposure". Personally I don't think I'd have the necessary skills to spot meter a small, fast-moving subject that's going to appear without much warning and then follow an unpredictable flight path. Then again I have trouble using back-button focus lock on stationary subjects .

R.G. Loc: Scotland

That would help. I suspect my camera would be struggling to get focus lock, never mind exposure lock .

Elmerviking

There is also an option to keep the exposure for a limited time, for example if an object like a tree obscures the bird. I recommend Steve Perry’s lesson how to use BBF with auto ISO.
( I don’t have my camera handy to tell you what menu setting it is, but I can find out later if you are interested)

R.G. Loc: Scotland

I'm thinking that my camera and my shooting skills both need upgrading . I find I struggle just to keep fast-moving objects in view, never mind spot metering them or locking focus on them . In my experience, landscapes aren't prone to quick, unpredictable movements. I really like that about landscapes....

Elmerviking

Yeah..I am not into birding either..totally uninteresting to me.
I am more interested street photography...more like capturing funny or odd situations.
Macro is also very interesting and a new area to me.😊