From Jerry’s original post on the subject - did you read that one? https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-570822-1.html

I don’t need to settle down - I’m advocating good consumer awareness and business practice. There are WIDE disparities in pricing and quality of work from multiple repair companies (be glad to post some examples if you like), and as a consumer, it’s up to you to look out for yourself. What part of asking for the defective parts to inspect and not paying until the work is satisafactorily completed do you disagree with?

The wire from your home to the pump should have been inside a conduit (by code), if after the wire is tested and proved to be shorted they should be able to pull a new wire, sometimes they need to dig next to the well casing because of the sharp angle of the wire going from underground and running up the side of the well casing. There is a old saying it can apply to anything man-made, "Electrical devices are man-made and man-made devices are prone to failure" so what I am saying is I would check the pressure switch and the circuit breaker as well I have seen these all fail, On another note if your pump is 20 yrs old or whatever in your area is considered old it can depend on water conditions in your area like iron in your water will suck the life out of your pump you may want to change the pump anyway labor prices being what they are if you may be "do" for a new pump soon anyway. one last thing to check if it is your pump being bad involves ( after the pump is pulled) is using rope and a weight to check the depth of your well, my well that I had drilled started out at 135 ft with 5 gal per min, about 20 yrs later I changed my pump and checked my well depth it was 110 ft over the years sand has filtered in and up to my pump and wrecked my pump, around here a new pump is held up off the bottom of the well about 20-30 ft. to allow for this, I wish you "well"

Unless it’s a ground fault breaker, it’s not expensive. Just make ABSOLUTELY sure the main breaker in the panel is off, or better yet, pull the meter or switch off the disconnect if there is one, and be VERY careful working inside the panel as the lugs to the main breaker (or fuses) are still “hot” with the main breaker off. Even then, I like to check the voltage on the busbars to the breakers before working in the box. I’m sure you already know all this, and maybe I sound over-cautious, but the transformer (pole pig) feeding your house can supply huge amounts of power (many hundreds of amps at 240 volts) into a fault before its breaker trips, and a slip with a screwdriver or a hand can be catastrophic. I always hate working in a hot panel if required. It’s not hard to change a breaker, but if you don’t feel comfortable with what you’re doing, don’t do it - call an electrician.