Problem with Olympus OM-D E10 Marklll or is it the lens (Page 2): The images are seriously overexposed, the artifacts noted by others above are definitely odd, and the fact that OP...

JD750 Loc: SoCal

The images are seriously overexposed, the artifacts noted by others above are definitely odd, and the fact that OP posted another thread on the same subject is also odd.

However for those who may still be reading this thread, it is worth mentioing that their is a phenomon that occurs with digital sensors called blooming:
“Blooming happens when a large amount light gets focused to a single point on your camera's image sensor. This can create so much charge that it actually bleeds from pixel to pixel until it eventually spreads out.“
Source: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/1175/how-to-avoid-blooming/

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

lrm wrote:

Devoted Nikonian - thinking of Mirrorless for trav... (show quote)

The 14-42 EZ is a good starter lens, but not much good for someone that knows something about photography. An easy way to check the lens quality is to shoot the sky/horizon straight through the center of the lens. The blue fringing should be greater at the edges than it is in the very center. If the blue fringing is missing from the center but not the edges, you should consider buying the non-EZ 14-42 lens. If the blue fringing occurs along the whole line, either the lens is defective or the camera should be set back to factory settings. If you get the same blue fringing after going back to the factory settings, then most likely you have a defective lense. Also, make sure that the lens elements are clean both front and rear.

Coffeebluv

tdekany wrote:

I think that your photos are good examples why you wouldn’t want the camera to make decisions for you. I maybe wrong, but looks like lens flare to me. As it was suggested, expose for the highlights and things will be fine. Btw, f8 is not needed with m4/3 unless you are doing something artsy with wide angle.

Here is an example from the same senor. I hope you don’t mind. Click on download

Newbie here...tdekany, beautiful pic. Why do you say f8 is not needed with m4/3....wide angle? I wonder what I am missing.

yorkiebyte Loc: Scottsdale, AZ/Bandon by the Sea, OR

lrm wrote:

Oddly, when I under expose similar scenes I still get the same thing. I have changed all settings a number of times,
I have shot in raw,processed to no avail.. Conclusion— gear going back. Thanks for your comments.

It's not the gear. Jus' sayin'.

lrm Loc: Sarasota, FL

Yorkie, sounds like you are really smart. Found two others with same problem — it is the lens. Put on two Pro lens at the dealer —no problem. So maybe you are just flapping your gums and don’t know what you are talking about.

minniev Loc: MIssissippi

lrm wrote:

Yorkie, sounds like you are really smart. Found two others with same problem — it is the lens. Put on two Pro lens at the dealer —no problem. So maybe you are just flapping your gums and don’t know what you are talking about.

I told you I thought it was likely the lens. I had a similar experience with that lens, apparently there were good copies and bad copies of it. My advice is DO NOT send it to be repaired, just return it and get a good quality lens. The 12-40 is well worth the cost, but if you're looking for something cheaper, the 12-50 is a much better kit lens than the one you got, and has none of the issues you described.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

lrm wrote:

Oddly, when I under expose similar scenes I still get the same thing. I have changed all settings a number of times,
I have shot in raw,processed to no avail.. Conclusion— gear going back. Thanks for your comments.

"Contrast was set to "high."
Sharpness was set to "hard."
Saturation was set to "high."

These are inappropriate for a bright-sky, tricky lighting situation IMO." - Linda from Maine

Going back through, if Linda from Maine's obsevation is correct, the problem with these photographs is probably not in the camera or lense. Yes, it is a cheaper lense than most, but I can promise you that I have not seen the issues that you are seeing with 14-42 EZ lens. I have tried my wife's EZ lens on my E-M1 mrII and I have not found these problems. The EZ is a lot smaller than my lenses, but not as good as my own lenses and not weatherproof (the main reason that I have not "acquired" the EZ from my wife).

If you send back the E-M10 mrIII without resetting it back to the factory settings, you will probably be sending back a really great camera and a perfectly acceptable lens. You owe it to yourself to actually use the camera the way that it should be used, not the way it is presently set up.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

Coffeebluv wrote:

Newbie here...tdekany, beautiful pic. Why do you say f8 is not needed with m4/3....wide angle? I wonder what I am missing.

Thank you!

M4/3 is a 2x crop, we get twice as much DOF. You will lose sharpness as well. With a telephoto lens like my 40-150 f2.8, I do use f8 or F9 because the DOF is too shallow otherwise for landscape. F4-f6.3 is all one needs to get enough DOF at wider angles. Even at f2.8 at 12mm you will be fine. I’m not sure which lenses you have though.

yorkiebyte Loc: Scottsdale, AZ/Bandon by the Sea, OR

lrm wrote:

Yorkie, sounds like you are really smart. Found two others with same problem — it is the lens. Put on two Pro lens at the dealer —no problem. So maybe you are just flapping your gums and don’t know what you are talking about.

Ohhhh..... Got me there! Hope you feel better now! You da' man! Or woman, I don't know which......

... Whoohooo!!

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

minniev wrote:

I told you I thought it was likely the lens. I had a similar experience with that lens, apparently there were good copies and bad copies of it. My advice is DO NOT send it to be repaired, just return it and get a good quality lens. The 12-40 is well worth the cost, but if you're looking for something cheaper, the 12-50 is a much better kit lens than the one you got, and has none of the issues you described.

minniev is correct; the 14-42 EZ is an acceptable lens, but the 12-50 is a better lens with slightly better range.

Coffeebluv

tdekany wrote:

Thank you!

M4/3 is a 2x crop, we get twice as much DOF. You will lose sharpness as well. With a telephoto lens like my 40-150 f2.8, I do use f8 or F9 because the DOF is too shallow otherwise for landscape. F4-f6.3 is all one needs to get enough DOF at wider angles. Even at f2.8 at 12mm you will be fine. I’m not sure which lenses you have though.

Gotchya, Thank you.

Cdouthitt Loc: Traverse City, MI

Coffeebluv wrote:

Gotchya, Thank you.

I concur with tdekany.

I shoot a lot of my images (including landscapes) wide open or stopped down one or two steps. I use wide open if i need the light, or stopped down if I need the sharpness. It's not to say that our lenses wide open aren't sharp.

I'm not one that yearns for a totally blurred out background in every situation, which is probably why I like m4/3. I can shoot wide open, and get enough separation if I want to or just take advantage of the the light gathering capabilities of an f1.8 or faster lens. What's important to keep track of while shooting wide open in daylight situations, is that you don't hit the top end of your speed. Luckily with the EM1ii it tops out at 1/8000sec with mechanical or 1/32000 electronic shutter. It's moreso an issue with the lower end m4/3 cameras. For instance my EPM2 has a max shutter of 1/4000 sec, which I absolutely hate and bump up against on occasion (which is perhaps why I rarely use it-that an the ergonomics suck on that camera).

lrm Loc: Sarasota, FL

interesting response. Are you a teenager or preteen.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

lrm wrote:

interesting response. Are you a teenager or preteen.

Who are you asking?

Cdouthitt Loc: Traverse City, MI

tdekany wrote:

Who are you asking?

Inquiring minds want to know as well.