leftj wrote:
Thanks - Good info. What's your favorite lens for the X-T1? Right now I have the XF 18-55mm that came with it.
Great glad you find it useful. On the X-T1 my most used lens is my Fuji 18-135mm. It just sits on the camera. On my X-E2 Fuji 14mm is great. Just sits there. I have a lot of M/F Vintage glass from Konica and Nikon that I use on both. Going off subject here I'll get told off by someone. If you need any more on this sub thread PM me. LOL
I have a D3400 which uses the same battery. I bought a non-oem brand battery and when I put it in the camera I got a message that there was a non Nikon battery installed and the camera would not operate. I also bought a power battery grip and when I used one Nikon battery and one non Nikon battery it worked fine.
I would only use Nikon batteries in a Nikon. If you have a problem Nikon Service may give you a hard time. Legally they have to support you.
Look on the camera manufacturer provided battery for the power capacity rating, it will be in Wh (watt-hour). The electrochemical system consists of an anode, cathode, electrolyte, and insulating layers. These are rolled up into a tube. The chemistry of the layers define the electrochemical potential (physical chemists know how to calculate it), and thus the voltage. The physical amount defines the energy capacity (the Wh). So check your battery in-camera - is there any or much wiggle room. Some third parties yout their higher power capacity - be aware this means a thinner walled box which means less strength. Now comes thermal expansion. Every battery system has an internal inpedance and current flow means some I^2R heat which leads to expansion, which can cause microcracks and electrolyte leakage. So in buying third party batts pay attention to the Wh spec.
John_F wrote:
Look on the camera manufacturer provided battery for the power capacity rating, it will be in Wh (watt-hour). The electrochemical system consists of an anode, cathode, electrolyte, and insulating layers. These are rolled up into a tube. The chemistry of the layers define the electrochemical potential (physical chemists know how to calculate it), and thus the voltage. The physical amount defines the energy capacity (the Wh). So check your battery in-camera - is there any or much wiggle room. Some third parties yout their higher power capacity - be aware this means a thinner walled box which means less strength. Now comes thermal expansion. Every battery system has an internal inpedance and current flow means some I^2R heat which leads to expansion, which can cause microcracks and electrolyte leakage. So in buying third party batts pay attention to the Wh spec.
Look on the camera manufacturer provided battery f... (
show quote)
The most common measure of battery capacity is actually AmpHour (or the derivative mAH (milli Amp Hour)). Off course it can be translated to WH by multiplying with the load voltage but it is not a common measure.
boberic wrote:
Or maybe another Canon v Nikon. Ford v Chevy Coke v Pepsi Pick one
Maybe Remington vs Winchester vs Federal vs Black Hills for ammunition. We could go on and on.
Dennis
cjc2 wrote:
You must not know how to buy. A BRAND NEW NIKON EN-EL-18B battery is $ 149 everywhere. A NEW NIKON charger is $ 370. Doesn't add up to $ 650. Where do you shop? A USED charger is about $ 250. If you are talking about the battery that comes with the D850, a NEW NIKON one is $ 60 and a brand new charger (one does come with the camera) is $ 60. Your numbers aren't even close! As far as 'stealing Nikon's profits' you are correct, that is rubbish as is this entire discussion! Best of luck.
"that is rubbish as is this entire discussion!"
Chris, please elaborate.
Marion
leftj wrote:
Would help to know what post you are responding to.
Sorry. I used his name in his sig line.
DaveO wrote:
What a dope, probably talking to himself!
I just figured "Chris" would recognize his own name.
The watt (symbol: W) is a unit of power. In the International System of Units (SI) it is defined as a derived unit of 1 joule per second,[1] and is used to quantify the rate of energy transfer.
So watt-hour is energy.
ChristianHJensen wrote:
The most common measure of battery capacity is actually AmpHour (or the derivative mAH (milli Amp Hour)). Off course it can be translated to WH by multiplying with the load voltage but it is not a common measure.
I bought two STK Sterling Tek batteries for my Canon two or three years ago. I find they still are nearly fully charged after three or four months in my bag. (I haven't been out shooting much lately. Too much golf) And no, using 3rd party batteries won't harm a camera. Now when it comes to 3rd party ink for printers that's a whole different matter. I've tried it and will never do so again.
John_F wrote:
The watt (symbol: W) is a unit of power. In the International System of Units (SI) it is defined as a derived unit of 1 joule per second,[1] and is used to quantify the rate of energy transfer.
So watt-hour is energy.
Watt hour is a measure of the amount of stored energy (as you wrote) and would actually make more sense as a measure of battery capacity - but it is just not commonly used. Also - whether using Wh or Ah is not necessarily telling the whole story either as it has to be paired with what conditions it is measured under - especially the rate of discharge as this will influence the resulting Ah and Wh number.
Way drifted off the thread here though.......................
cjc2 wrote:
You must not know how to buy. A BRAND NEW NIKON EN-EL-18B battery is $ 149 everywhere. A NEW NIKON charger is $ 370. Doesn't add up to $ 650. Where do you shop? A USED charger is about $ 250. If you are talking about the battery that comes with the D850, a NEW NIKON one is $ 60 and a brand new charger (one does come with the camera) is $ 60. Your numbers aren't even close! As far as 'stealing Nikon's profits' you are correct, that is rubbish as is this entire discussion! Best of luck.
Your numbers are correct, cjc2.
But not "even close"? There's still a HUGE difference between $520 and $106.
Looks like I added the Nikon battery price (B&H) and then the charger price and then the battery price again.
My excuse, I had 2 1/2 hours sleep when my dogs demanded to go out at 2 a.m. Failure to comply results in squishy stuff on the kitchen floor when I'm trying to find the coffee pot with eyes closed.
Have fun and thanks for the correction.
dennis2146 wrote:
You will get many comments pro and con regarding the use of non camera manufacturer batteries. I have used non original batteries in the past with no problems whatsoever in a few Nikons.
Dennis
Be sure to buy from a reputable company and be aware that many off-brand batteries yield fewer shots per charge. One that I tried only had enough charge to allow 2/3 the number of shots as the one that came with the camera. Also be aware that off-brand chargers may not have the sophistication of switching to trickle charge when the battery is fully charged, leading to overcharge and even explosion and fire dangers. Notice that I said "some", not "all". I do not have a list, but there may be lists of dangerous chargers online.
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