The Zone System - How Do YOU Meter For It
Jan 13, 2018 11:56:33 #
Darkroom317 wrote:
Here are several articles from Alan Ross about the... (show quote)
I do the same as you. That was how we were taught at Ohio University, and a class I had with Ansel Adams. Now days, I only use the Zone System for B&W Film in my 645 and 4x5. I use live view/histogram for digital. Happy shooting
Jan 13, 2018 12:16:16 #
Jan 13, 2018 12:33:30 #
Shutterbug57 wrote:
How would you do that with a Mamiya 645 or Nikon N90s shooting Tri-X?
I have a Mamiya 645. Tri-X does not lend itself to push pull processing as defined by the Zone system due to the fact that it is a two emulsion film. Single layer films work better for push-pull processing. Check out Free Style Photo in LA California. The have excellent descriptions of their films. And will tell you which films work best for Zone System push pull processing. Using the Zone system works OK with the 645. Just remember that you are processing the whole roll at the same Push/Pull and not just one frame as in Sheet Film. The same is true for 35mm except you are now doing 24 or 36 exposures. That is a lot of shots of the same thing. Back in my Film days I would buy 100ft bulk rolls and load up a bunch of 5 and ten shot rolls. That way I didn't waste as much film. My older Exackta had a built in film cutter so you could literally cut short a roll. Happy Shooting
Jan 13, 2018 12:50:56 #
What am I missing? I understand that the zone system is used for exposing and developing B&W negatives and paper printing. It seems to me that just using your live histogram to expose in your digital camera is the equivalent of exposing and developing and PP is the equivalent of printing. For digital the key is knowing what to preserve, highlights, shadows or HDR.
For jpeg, move histogram right or left as the scene requires for best SOOC (ex. snow scene push toward the right). For raw, center or push right and PP.
For jpeg, move histogram right or left as the scene requires for best SOOC (ex. snow scene push toward the right). For raw, center or push right and PP.
Jan 13, 2018 13:10:47 #
cytafex
Loc: Clarksburg MA
James R wrote:
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I saw a "Used" (of course) - S.E.I. on E-bay for sale a few weeks ago. The one I had was given to me by one of my "mentors" that I worked for in the late 1960's.
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I saw a "Used" (of course) - S.E.I. on E-bay for sale a few weeks ago. The one I had was given to me by one of my "mentors" that I worked for in the late 1960's.
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I still have a Lunapro with 7.5 spot attachment I bought in the early 70's, still works.
Jan 13, 2018 13:26:25 #
SalvageDiver wrote:
What am I missing? I understand that the zone sys... (show quote)
ππ»ππ»ππ» some people try to make life harder than it really is. Kind of like only using full manual mode on their $3000 camera and never going to Auto, P, S/T and A. And then never printing the photo any larger tha 4x6. Then upgrading to the next-best because of all the fancy features it has but they still only shoot in full manual mode... Go figure???
Jan 13, 2018 13:27:49 #
I have a Sekonic L-398A and a Pentax1Β°/21Β° Spotmeter, I haven't carried them around for many years. I use the camera meter. What you have to remember is the meter exposes for zone V. Caucasian skin is zone VI. If you are caucasian and want an ambient meter, meter the palm of your hand and open one stop. If you are in special conditions, (camera set for shutter priority) point the camera around until you get the πstop setting you want, use the meter lock, compose (assuming you have already selected your composition) and shoot. Bear in mind that you choose your exposure. Do you care if shadow detail is blocked out? Does it matter if highlights are washed out? You can set for automatic bracketing, and do HDR on your computer. Most importantly, ask yourself why are you taking this picture? What do you see that you want to preserve? Do you see it in your viewfinder, or only in your mind's eye? Can you capture any it better from where you are?
Jan 13, 2018 13:30:28 #
rmalarz wrote:
Very simply, any, well the vast majority, of light... (show quote)
Bob, I like to say that meters can't get fooled, but you shouldn't assume the photographer won't. . . .
Jan 13, 2018 14:36:55 #
Shutterbug57 wrote:
I have been using the built in meter on my DSLRs and N90s. I also have a Mamiya 645 that is totally manual, i.e., no meter. I have been using a DSLR or N90s spot meter with the Mamiya, but that is a hassle. I have a Sekonic L358 (lacks a spot meter) that I am thinking of selling and buying a Sekonic 558, 758 or 858. I am just curious what this august body uses.
I have the Sekonic 758 and love it as it has two sensors one for incident reading and one for spot reading and has a number of different modes to help in averaging the readings to give the proper exposure in complex lighting situations. Also, it comes with camera calibration software that profiles the tonal range of your camera (cameras) and compensates the meters readings accordingly to get the best exposure possible.
Google the Sekonic 758 meter and you'll find plenty of info and vids on the net about how to use it.
Jan 13, 2018 14:43:22 #
Jan 13, 2018 14:45:31 #
ORpilot wrote:
I have a Mamiya 645. Tri-X does not lend itself to... (show quote)
What is your source for Tri-X being a two emulsion film?
Jan 13, 2018 14:47:37 #
flyguy wrote:
I have the Sekonic 758 and love it as it has two s... (show quote)
I have researched the various options and I watched a video on the 758 as well. It is very nice, but only on the used market, so ebay. I am not sure I like the 858, the newer version, as much.
Jan 13, 2018 15:51:53 #
For my large format imaging I use a Pentax Spotmeter V. I meter shadows where I want detail and place on Zone III or IV. Read brightest highlight where I want detail and see if it falls on Zone VIII, if not revise development. To effectively use this system one needs to know the your personal EI for the film being shot, the developer being used and the development procedure, i.e. rotary, tray, or tank development. If you really want to nail down exposure and development you might consider getting a copy of Phil Davis's book Beyond the Zone System. I know it's not the purist's idea of the Zone System, and it requires a good deal of "testing" as opposed to capturing images, but it has made my negatives far more consistent in exposure and development. It hasn't kept me from taking a number of photos that are of questionable worth, but that is another subject.
Jan 13, 2018 16:09:21 #
Darkroom317 wrote:
What is your source for Tri-X being a two emulsion film?
Not sure if it was an update notice from Kodak or the Photo Lab Index from when I was a College Photography Instructor. That is also why you should not use Kodak B&W Reversal Processing with standard 35mm and 120 film as per, 1985 Photolab Index Kodak Supplement #179. You could use Tri-X #7277 (16mm). I have no data on the current production Tri-X, now manufactured by Kodak Alaris. The last supplements by the old Kodak company referred to "old and New" Tri-x films. I personally never liked Tri-X except when shooting sports games at night and then processed in Diafine or Acufine. I hope This helps.
Jan 13, 2018 16:11:25 #
Kingman wrote:
You also need a 18% gray card...if you can find one.
I don't think you need a gray card for the Zone system.
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