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Another Why Your Photographs Might Suck...By Request from selmslie
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Nov 19, 2017 15:01:14   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
rmalarz wrote:
The part that eluded some was that this was NOT a how do I fix this post. This was a post illustrating the pitfalls of using Auto, especially in ACR. Simple as that. So for the umpteenth time, the photos were examples of letting the camera/software think for you and the results obtained as a result.

For those who continually want to discuss the color the building is painted, we can also discuss how many angels can dance on the head of a pin. However, the purpose of the post was as mentioned above. That was conclusively illustrated.
--Bob
The part that eluded some was that this was b NOT... (show quote)


OK

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Nov 19, 2017 15:03:31   #
tomcat
 
rmalarz wrote:
As a further study, and proof that ACR pushes things to the right, here's a couple that were done at the suggestion of an esteemed colleague, another UHH member. This will eliminate the exterior decorators in the house criticizing the color of the building. I used a gray card.

I photographed a gray card using P mode on the camera and Matrix metering, as suggested by Selmslie a few posts ago. I guess the phrase read em and weep might be appropriate at this point.

Auto definitely pushes to the right. Now the question is why?
--Bob
As a further study, and proof that ACR pushes thin... (show quote)


I think it's because the natural tendency for the software engineers/designers was to push all exposures to the right with a safety factor built in, in an attempt to maximize shadow detail, but not at the expense of overblowing whites. After the auto-ACR adjustment, the plan is to use the highlight slider to pull back on the whites and remove the overblown areas. A highlight adjustment on that first building image would have helped. The adobe color was probably more realistic in the 2nd image, but the whole image was an overall muddy tone and did not look good to me.

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Nov 19, 2017 15:39:35   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
So if we start with a photo that is say overexposed a stop or two do we then think that the ACR Auto will further push it to the right. Or might the processing be designed to try to judge the distribution of the histogram tones and then make a decision as to using it right or not...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

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Nov 19, 2017 15:43:25   #
tomcat
 
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
So if we start with a photo that is say overexposed a stop or two do we then think that the ACR Auto will further push it to the right. Or might the processing be designed to try to judge the distribution of the histogram tones and then make a decision as to using it right or not...

Best,
Todd Ferguson


Yes!!

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Nov 19, 2017 16:05:18   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
rmalarz wrote:
The part that eluded some was that this was NOT a how do I fix this post. This was a post illustrating the pitfalls of using Auto, especially in ACR. ...

Only the most naive beginners have any illusions about the effectiveness of Auto in the camera or any other subsequent stage in the process - in ACR or any other software.

You could easily make this point without exaggerating or withholding information. To do so does not advance your argument.

Refusing to disclose your ISO and exposure information for the two initial images makes it seem that you have something to hide - that you are not leveling with us.

We are left with the impression that you do not know how to present your case or that you are trying to make a mountain out of a molehill.

Click Auto if you want to and then proceed with your own adjustments. Or just don't click on Auto at all like everyone else. It's just not a big deal.

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Nov 19, 2017 16:11:01   #
Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.
 
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
So if we start with a photo that is say overexposed a stop or two do we then think that the ACR Auto will further push it to the right. Or might the processing be designed to try to judge the distribution of the histogram tones and then make a decision as to using it right or not...

Best,
Todd Ferguson


Todd, I habitually EC+.7 and ACR will still bump to the right. Moral, don't use auto

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Nov 19, 2017 16:24:38   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
ricardo7 wrote:
With the exception of the somewhat "bright" building in the first photo I think
it is better than the second. The color balance is more pleasing, the blacks are
richer and the greens are greener. The building appears to be textureless
concrete so I don't think the exposure is blown out, just very bright. It could
be reduced a bit, but not to the extent of the second rendition. My vote, as
qualified, is for the first photo.


Are you viewing the image on a properly calibrated and custom ICC-profiled monitor? I am... The first image is way too light and slightly cold (blue).

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Nov 19, 2017 16:36:53   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
Rich1939 wrote:
Todd, I habitually EC+.7 and ACR will still bump to the right. Moral, don't use auto

Consider the possibility that EC+0.7 has already bumped your exposure to the right. ACR may just be going along with you.

I habitually use EC+0 and I sometimes adjust the Exposure in setting in my raw conversion (Capture One) just a little to get what I am looking for. However, I seldom need to recover highlight or shadow information because my camera is aiming for middle gray.

A lot of photographers are just over-thinking the process. Modern cameras have a lot more DR than the normal scene.

I started with film (and still use it regularly) so I know when the scene's DR is going to be a problem. That does not happen often.

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Nov 19, 2017 16:46:31   #
Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.
 
selmslie wrote:
Consider the possibility that EC+0.7 has already bumped your exposure to the right. ACR may just be going along with you.

I habitually use EC+0 and I sometimes adjust the Exposure in setting in my raw conversion (Capture One) just a little to get what I am looking for. However, I seldom need to recover highlight or shadow information because my camera is aiming for middle gray.

A lot of photographers are just over-thinking the process. Modern cameras have a lot more DR than the normal scene.

I started with film (and still use it regularly) so I know when the scene's DR is going to be a problem. That does not happen often.
Consider the possibility that EC+0.7 has b alread... (show quote)


Todd, I use +.7 because after testing I know I can, usually, getaway with it and it helps the shadows a bit when I do. As to ACR, if I load an unprocessed .nef file, the auto function will almost always move the exposure to the right no matter what exposure correction I use unless it is totally off the wall. I prefer to ignore the auto control and set my exposure by balancing the histogram as a starting point.

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Nov 19, 2017 16:48:54   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Rongnongno wrote:
Has anyone of the "WB gurus" wonder at what time this image was taken?

According to the projected shade it was late afternoon, late afternoon = warm light = yellow/orange/red cast.

But heck let's argue about the WB, not ACR propensity to over correct the exposure. After all, this is not the point of this thread.




Along with what Bob showed, I would love to have seen a SOOC JPEG image made in reference to a One Shot Digital Calibration Target for both exposure and white balance. It would be a very close reproduction of the scene. Then we could see what Adobe is doing with the raw files.

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Nov 19, 2017 16:52:33   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
Two things, by knowing the limits of one's equipment and applying that knowledge in making an exposure, then not using Auto one can expose for large ranges of light and produce a good photograph.

I'm not going to jump on the HDR bandwagon as that will open an entirely different can of worms.
--Bob
Picture Taker wrote:
To put it simply the white building (by it's position and size) acts like shooting in snow or at the beach. You must compensate for that. A option you might use because of the light range is so large is HDR.

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Nov 19, 2017 17:32:07   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
Rich1939 wrote:
Todd, I use +.7 because after testing I know I can, usually, getaway with it and it helps the shadows a bit when I do. As to ACR, if I load an unprocessed .nef file, the auto function will almost always move the exposure to the right no matter what exposure correction I use unless it is totally off the wall. I prefer to ignore the auto control and set my exposure by balancing the histogram as a starting point.

Knowledge is power.

If you can get away with +.7 it’s because the scenes you normal capture have a DR that is not too wide. That’s more common than most people think it is.

But +.7 limits your latitude above middle grey to one or two stops and that’s something that film photographers didn’t have to worry about unless they were using Kodachrome.

The further you stay from th right the less you risk blown highlights. Modern cameras can dig a lot of information out of the shadows, especially at low ISO, but there is nothing you can do to recover blown highlights.

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Nov 19, 2017 17:48:51   #
Bob Boner
 
I much prefer the second image. There is no hint of detail in the building in the first image. The only thing I would change in the second image would be to slightly lighten the white lines on the road.

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Nov 19, 2017 17:55:03   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
No, I am not an auto shooter. Tv 95 percent of the time and full manual the rest... If I get more into shooting some landscapes and panoramas I will probably get into Av more...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Rich1939 wrote:
Todd, I habitually EC+.7 and ACR will still bump to the right. Moral, don't use auto

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Nov 19, 2017 17:56:49   #
Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.
 
selmslie wrote:
Knowledge is power.

If you can get away with +.7 it’s because the scenes you normal capture have a DR that is not too wide. That’s more common than most people think it is.

But +.7 limits your latitude above middle grey to one or two stops and that’s something that film photographers didn’t have to worry about unless they were using Kodachrome.

The further you stay from th right the less you risk blown highlights. Modern cameras can dig a lot of information out of the shadows, especially at low ISO, but there is nothing you can do to recover blown highlights.
Knowledge is power. br br If you can get away wi... (show quote)


I currently live in NE Penna, Gray is normal as are a lot of shadows because we are very forested here. +.7 is probably conservative. When I lived in NM and AZ I usually had to deal with high contrast conditions and used a spot meter to read the high lights.
For some scenes a blown high light was acceptable sometimes not. As you say, knowledge is power.

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