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Jul 10, 2012 13:37:44   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
djmagicflorida wrote:
jimni2001 wrote:
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents is worth any more. Instead of shooting with the camera held in a landscape position, horizontally, turn the camera on it's side and shoot in a vertical or portrait position. That way your image will not come out as a long thin photo. You may have to take a couple of more shots to capture your shot but I think you will find it will be easier to size. Also overlap each photo by at least 1/3. I usually go for 1/2 overlap as it makes it easier for the software to process. Most of all don't make a chore out of it and have fun doing it.
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents... (show quote)


Your two cents worth is very valuable info. I would not have thought to go as much as 1/2 overlap, but I can see the advantage to doing that. I can't wrap my head around how the software will "stitch" the pieces together, but I guess I'll have fun with that portion of the project. I did give thought to shooting vertical portrait and will try both ways. One never knows the outcome so I will experiment a lot. Thanks so much for replying!

St Pete Linda
quote=jimni2001 Here is my two cents worth for wh... (show quote)


I shoot a lot of panoramas... auto exposure, 24mm, HAND HELD, and use PS CS5 Photomerge. Fabulous results. One is shown here.

Golf course panorama
Golf course panorama...

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Jul 10, 2012 14:42:39   #
Bigdaver
 
No offense, but you don't have much visible detail or foreground. I know that works for you, but add any more demanding variable and it won't work with no technique and all automatic, at least if you have to have it right. For a wide pano with no foreground, you can do most anything. If you want detail from foreground to infinity, you have to do it right.
48 shot mosaic, this is reduced size. You can read billboards up front and count sections in the tower on the horizon.
cheineck wrote:
djmagicflorida wrote:
jimni2001 wrote:
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents is worth any more. Instead of shooting with the camera held in a landscape position, horizontally, turn the camera on it's side and shoot in a vertical or portrait position. That way your image will not come out as a long thin photo. You may have to take a couple of more shots to capture your shot but I think you will find it will be easier to size. Also overlap each photo by at least 1/3. I usually go for 1/2 overlap as it makes it easier for the software to process. Most of all don't make a chore out of it and have fun doing it.
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents... (show quote)


Your two cents worth is very valuable info. I would not have thought to go as much as 1/2 overlap, but I can see the advantage to doing that. I can't wrap my head around how the software will "stitch" the pieces together, but I guess I'll have fun with that portion of the project. I did give thought to shooting vertical portrait and will try both ways. One never knows the outcome so I will experiment a lot. Thanks so much for replying!

St Pete Linda
quote=jimni2001 Here is my two cents worth for wh... (show quote)


I shoot a lot of panoramas... auto exposure, 24mm, HAND HELD, and use PS CS5 Photomerge. Fabulous results. One is shown here.
quote=djmagicflorida quote=jimni2001 Here is my ... (show quote)



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Jul 10, 2012 15:16:15   #
littlebug Loc: woburn ma
 
I'm a novice also, and was wondering about the camera that shoots in panoramic.I saw this woman take a photo of the downtown with this type camera I don't have a clue how they print it would like to hear from members about this subject thanks

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Jul 10, 2012 15:18:13   #
littlebug Loc: woburn ma
 
I'm a novice also, and was wondering about the camera that shoots in panoramic.I saw this woman take a photo of the downtown with this type camera I don't have a clue how they print it would like to hear from members about this subject thanks

Reply
Jul 10, 2012 15:21:50   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
Bigdaver wrote:
No offense, but you don't have much visible detail or foreground. I know that works for you, but add any more demanding variable and it won't work with no technique and all automatic, at least if you have to have it right. For a wide pano with no foreground, you can do most anything. If you want detail from foreground to infinity, you have to do it right.
48 shot mosaic, this is reduced size. You can read billboards up front and count sections in the tower on the horizon.
cheineck wrote:
djmagicflorida wrote:
jimni2001 wrote:
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents is worth any more. Instead of shooting with the camera held in a landscape position, horizontally, turn the camera on it's side and shoot in a vertical or portrait position. That way your image will not come out as a long thin photo. You may have to take a couple of more shots to capture your shot but I think you will find it will be easier to size. Also overlap each photo by at least 1/3. I usually go for 1/2 overlap as it makes it easier for the software to process. Most of all don't make a chore out of it and have fun doing it.
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents... (show quote)


Your two cents worth is very valuable info. I would not have thought to go as much as 1/2 overlap, but I can see the advantage to doing that. I can't wrap my head around how the software will "stitch" the pieces together, but I guess I'll have fun with that portion of the project. I did give thought to shooting vertical portrait and will try both ways. One never knows the outcome so I will experiment a lot. Thanks so much for replying!

St Pete Linda
quote=jimni2001 Here is my two cents worth for wh... (show quote)


I shoot a lot of panoramas... auto exposure, 24mm, HAND HELD, and use PS CS5 Photomerge. Fabulous results. One is shown here.
quote=djmagicflorida quote=jimni2001 Here is my ... (show quote)
No offense, but you don't have much visible detail... (show quote)


I was going for the clouds as part of a "Florida Mountains" project. Here's another with more foreground.



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Jul 10, 2012 16:07:52   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
beinbalance wrote:
Linda,
if you can get PT Gui software the best switching software out there, plus there blog page is the best there is for support. If you really want to get out there, the Ninja Nodal pan head is the best on the market. and lens doing pans for years, wider for me was always better. 8 or 14mm worked for me really well. Fewer images to switched especially if you do 5 bracketed HDR images as I've been doing


What you describe is what I use. Also look at Nodal Ninja's forum. Lens - with the Nikon D300 use the 10mm fisheye, with a full frame use the 16mm fisheye. Also check out to set up for for the NPP (no parallex point).

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Jul 10, 2012 16:11:53   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
I went to a panorama site on the web and saw some striking images. Unlike mine (see 2 of them above) they seemed to be taken from separate vantage points rather than standing in one spot and turning. The effect was great, not distorted as some of mine are. Anyone know how this is done? Or if "Panoramic" cameras and lenses are used???
Thanks.

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Jul 10, 2012 16:24:46   #
gmcase Loc: Galt's Gulch
 
Check out Max Lyons' pano site. Not as active as it once was but excellent info and some incredibly large panos, over 1 gigapixel in some cases. My largest to to date is 160 images - 8 rows x 20 columns at 12 mp each. I did a much larger one at 280 images but the exposure in the brightest area was blown out a little too much so had to scrap it. I have heard of well over 1 thousand images being used where exposure and focus bracketing were used. Interesting work flows required.

You can shoot more than 1 row to get a larger to height to width ratio in landscape orientation. Some of the free or less robust stitching programs only handle single rows so it won't work on those.

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Jul 10, 2012 17:08:08   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
gmcase wrote:
Check out Max Lyons' pano site. Not as active as it once was but excellent info and some incredibly large panos, over 1 gigapixel in some cases. My largest to to date is 160 images - 8 rows x 20 columns at 12 mp each. I did a much larger one at 280 images but the exposure in the brightest area was blown out a little too much so had to scrap it. I have heard of well over 1 thousand images being used where exposure and focus bracketing were used. Interesting work flows required.

You can shoot more than 1 row to get a larger to height to width ratio in landscape orientation. Some of the free or less robust stitching programs only handle single rows so it won't work on those.
Check out Max Lyons' pano site. Not as active as i... (show quote)


Thanks very much!!!

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Jul 10, 2012 17:10:05   #
beverett Loc: los angeles
 
Bigdaver wrote:
The reason you don't want "Landscape" or any other auto mode is that the exposure can change as you point a different direction. Use Auto to set and exposure if necessary, but then switch to full manual using those settings. Meter on the best compromise area, what will be the middle ground? Usually use a moderately high aperture, F11 or F16. Use a compromise focus point, and then switch to manual focus so it doesn't move with each exposure. Try and move your camera on the nodal point of the lens, helps keep the foreground lined up. I use a Panosaurus for that reason.
Good luck
djmagicflorida wrote:
I am a novice landscape photographer and will be making my first attempt at shooting a panoramic 3-picture photo. I live in St Petersburg, FL and plan to use a downtown location on Tampa Bay. I will be using my Canon 30D and I have two Canon lenses: 17-85 and 28-135. I will use my tripod. Any shooting and/or editing suggestions? Can I use the "landscape" setting or should I shoot manual? It seems like it will be a very time consuming effort. I have an older version of Adobe Photoshop (Photo Elements 2 - don't yell at me for having such an old version....I only do basic editing and like it)........will this be a good enough editing tool? Or is there another piece of software recommendation that is very user friendly and will make it easier? Thanks to anyone who responds.

Linda / St Pete
I am a novice landscape photographer and will be m... (show quote)
The reason you don't want "Landscape" or... (show quote)


Bigdaver has it right. Nothing on auto, not even white balance. Make sure the tripod is level and use generous overlap. Three panels is probably not enough, especially if you are shooting verticals.

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Jul 10, 2012 17:10:15   #
Tom H Loc: St. Louis, MO
 
I guess I'm kind of hogging into this. I too, want to try my hand at panoramas.

I want to try it with my Sigma 8-16mm lens set at 8mm (12mm as 35 equiv.) on my Pentax K-5 in a portrait (vertical) orientation. I haven't played with this at all yet. I had planned on at least a 1/3 overlap. Not sure what the horizon would do if I did't keep it centered, so plan to do some cropping to get a good composition. Haven't decided on a location or subject but hope to find something begging for this treatment while on vacation next month. Perhaps their is a mountain top just waiting for me.

I only have a ball head on my tripod so can't pivot around the nodal point. How much of a problem is that with this superwide lens? In case I really get caught up in doing panoramas, what do you suggest for a tripod head in the moderate to low price range.

I'm concerned about avoiding the sun with such a wide lens and no way to use filters. What problems I'm I overlooking that haven't been covered in the discussion already?

Other suggestions and thoughts would be welcome. Considering the distortion involved at 8mm (12mm), it is OK to just say I'm nuts to waste time trying this with a superwide lens.

djmagicflorida, please excuse the intrusion into your discussion. Hope we might both learn something else. I've found the above discussion to give me confidence that I might just get a good shot or two.

Tom Hudson

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Jul 10, 2012 17:40:11   #
beverett Loc: los angeles
 
Don't worry about the nodal point. Just try to keep the camera level as you pan.

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Jul 10, 2012 17:56:44   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
I use 40 percent overlap... it seems to work fine in PS.

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Jul 10, 2012 17:59:00   #
gmcase Loc: Galt's Gulch
 
beverett wrote:
Don't worry about the nodal point. Just try to keep the camera level as you pan.


I agree with this when you are getting your feet wet. Don't fret too much. You will soon learn what you can getaway with and what you can't. I have shot two row panos x several columns and still obtained reasonable results hand held. If you don't have objects close by in the foreground you reduce the effects of parallax errors greatly.

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Jul 10, 2012 18:01:41   #
djmagicflorida
 
jerryc41 wrote:
djmagicflorida wrote:
jerryc41 wrote:
I got a free stitching program, PanoramaPlus, and it didn't always work, "Cannot find enough points in common." So, I bought the better version. The only difference was that I was out a chunk of money. Some people use it and like it. For me, it was a waste of time.

Canon's PhotoStitch is a free program that works perfectly. It comes (or used to come) free with Canon cameras. I had a copy of it, but I can't find it, and I can't find any place to download it. You will see it listed in a Google search, but I doubt that you will actually find the program.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/photostitch.htm

Update: Canon used to have this available as a download, but they no longer do, and their customers are not happy about it.
I got a free stitching program, PanoramaPlus, and ... (show quote)



I tried to find it, as well. Too bad, it sounds like that would have worked well for what I'm trying to accomplish. Thanks.
quote=jerryc41 I got a free stitching program, Pa... (show quote)

If you can find someone with a Canon camera, they should have that disc with the stitching program.
quote=djmagicflorida quote=jerryc41 I got a free... (show quote)



Guess what???? I got my Canon 30D boxes from my storage unit and the CD with PhotoStitch 3.1 is in there. I can't wait to try it. Thanks for all your suggestions and reminding me that I still had the Canon boxes........St Pete Linda

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