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Panoramic Shooting
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Jul 9, 2012 13:21:39   #
djmagicflorida
 
I am a novice landscape photographer and will be making my first attempt at shooting a panoramic 3-picture photo. I live in St Petersburg, FL and plan to use a downtown location on Tampa Bay. I will be using my Canon 30D and I have two Canon lenses: 17-85 and 28-135. I will use my tripod. Any shooting and/or editing suggestions? Can I use the "landscape" setting or should I shoot manual? It seems like it will be a very time consuming effort. I have an older version of Adobe Photoshop (Photo Elements 2 - don't yell at me for having such an old version....I only do basic editing and like it)........will this be a good enough editing tool? Or is there another piece of software recommendation that is very user friendly and will make it easier? Thanks to anyone who responds.

Linda / St Pete

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Jul 9, 2012 13:32:44   #
Leicaflex Loc: Cymru
 
Use your 17 - 85mm depending on the type of landscape, set at 24mm. Use manual and manual focus. Set on tripod and ensure the camera is level, especially if there is likely to be an horizon. Shoot in portrait mode, this will avoid the typical letterbox style and shoot at least six exposures, allowing good overlap.
Elements 2 should be able to stitch them together, but save up and purchase Elements 10 when you can.

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Jul 9, 2012 15:31:17   #
donrent Loc: Punta Gorda , Fl
 
Thats good advice above me, but also why don't you - just for the heck of it - shoot it again using the "landscape" mode...
You just might see a difference... be interesting...

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Jul 9, 2012 15:54:33   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
Basic advice -
Find an interesting composition
Shoot from Left to Right
A tripod can keep the photos level to one another
Canon has a pano program called PhotoStitch that is free
- Google it, or find it here http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems/eos_digital_slr_cameras/eos_30d#DriversAndSoftware

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Jul 9, 2012 16:05:21   #
Harvey Loc: Pioneer, CA
 
Panos can be fun & real projects all in one - horizontal shots are fun but vertical ones work well too. My biggest challenge was a vertical of the Space Needle in Seattle.

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Jul 9, 2012 16:54:02   #
Bigdaver
 
The reason you don't want "Landscape" or any other auto mode is that the exposure can change as you point a different direction. Use Auto to set and exposure if necessary, but then switch to full manual using those settings. Meter on the best compromise area, what will be the middle ground? Usually use a moderately high aperture, F11 or F16. Use a compromise focus point, and then switch to manual focus so it doesn't move with each exposure. Try and move your camera on the nodal point of the lens, helps keep the foreground lined up. I use a Panosaurus for that reason.
Good luck
djmagicflorida wrote:
I am a novice landscape photographer and will be making my first attempt at shooting a panoramic 3-picture photo. I live in St Petersburg, FL and plan to use a downtown location on Tampa Bay. I will be using my Canon 30D and I have two Canon lenses: 17-85 and 28-135. I will use my tripod. Any shooting and/or editing suggestions? Can I use the "landscape" setting or should I shoot manual? It seems like it will be a very time consuming effort. I have an older version of Adobe Photoshop (Photo Elements 2 - don't yell at me for having such an old version....I only do basic editing and like it)........will this be a good enough editing tool? Or is there another piece of software recommendation that is very user friendly and will make it easier? Thanks to anyone who responds.

Linda / St Pete
I am a novice landscape photographer and will be m... (show quote)

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Jul 9, 2012 17:33:59   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
Bigdaver wrote:
The reason you don't want "Landscape" or any other auto mode is that the exposure can change as you point a different direction. Use Auto to set and exposure if necessary, but then switch to full manual using those settings. Meter on the best compromise area, what will be the middle ground? Usually use a moderately high aperture, F11 or F16. Use a compromise focus point, and then switch to manual focus so it doesn't move with each exposure. Try and move your camera on the nodal point of the lens, helps keep the foreground lined up. I use a Panosaurus for that reason.
Good luck
The reason you don't want "Landscape" or... (show quote)


Excellent point about the exposure.

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Jul 9, 2012 17:38:00   #
djmagicflorida
 
Sorry, I'm only responding once to all of you from here.......thanks for all the fantastic advice. It will be lots more fun with all the great suggestions. Maybe I'll be brave enough to post it!!!

All the best, St Pete Linda

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Jul 9, 2012 17:50:20   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
djmagicflorida wrote:
Sorry, I'm only responding once to all of you from here.......thanks for all the fantastic advice. It will be lots more fun with all the great suggestions. Maybe I'll be brave enough to post it!!!

All the best, St Pete Linda


POST IT!!!

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Jul 9, 2012 17:56:40   #
djmagicflorida
 
Will do.......thanks again to everyone!!!!

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Jul 9, 2012 17:58:24   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
i won't yell, but the newer programs for stitching do it automatically. I just tell it where the files are and after a minute or two, done!

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Jul 9, 2012 18:07:12   #
djmagicflorida
 
GoofyNewfie wrote:
i won't yell, but the newer programs for stitching do it automatically. I just tell it where the files are and after a minute or two, done!



Okay, I like that idea a lot. Are you talking about Adobe??? How much???

St Pete Linda

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Jul 9, 2012 18:10:37   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
djmagicflorida wrote:
GoofyNewfie wrote:
i won't yell, but the newer programs for stitching do it automatically. I just tell it where the files are and after a minute or two, done!



Okay, I like that idea a lot. Are you talking about Adobe??? How much???

St Pete Linda


PhotoStitch is free as are many others.

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Jul 9, 2012 20:43:24   #
jimni2001 Loc: Sierra Vista, Arizona, USA
 
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents is worth any more. Instead of shooting with the camera held in a landscape position, horizontally, turn the camera on it's side and shoot in a vertical or portrait position. That way your image will not come out as a long thin photo. You may have to take a couple of more shots to capture your shot but I think you will find it will be easier to size. Also overlap each photo by at least 1/3. I usually go for 1/2 overlap as it makes it easier for the software to process. Most of all don't make a chore out of it and have fun doing it.

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Jul 9, 2012 21:00:47   #
djmagicflorida
 
jimni2001 wrote:
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents is worth any more. Instead of shooting with the camera held in a landscape position, horizontally, turn the camera on it's side and shoot in a vertical or portrait position. That way your image will not come out as a long thin photo. You may have to take a couple of more shots to capture your shot but I think you will find it will be easier to size. Also overlap each photo by at least 1/3. I usually go for 1/2 overlap as it makes it easier for the software to process. Most of all don't make a chore out of it and have fun doing it.
Here is my two cents worth for what ever two cents... (show quote)


Your two cents worth is very valuable info. I would not have thought to go as much as 1/2 overlap, but I can see the advantage to doing that. I can't wrap my head around how the software will "stitch" the pieces together, but I guess I'll have fun with that portion of the project. I did give thought to shooting vertical portrait and will try both ways. One never knows the outcome so I will experiment a lot. Thanks so much for replying!

St Pete Linda

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