TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Smaller sensors = more noise at high ISOs - the opposite of what you need. If you really want the best high ISO/low noise performance, full frame is the (more expensive) answer.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Yes, it is a challenge but you are off to a good start. I think I would open my aperture up and try to isolate the action from the background a bit more. Maybe try f/3.5 to f/4.0 and see if that isolates things a little more. Probably could lower your ISO a bit to 800 or 1000 and a Shutter Speed of 1200 to 2000 should be sufficient to freeze any motion. Happy shooting!

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Tet68survivor Loc: Pomfret Center CT

The P900 is a great camera, but it works just like the other DSLRs with telephoto lenses! After all that's been what it is, a DSLR with an adjustable extra long telephoto lens! I have the P100 , P,600 and D5200 with several lenses (16-300, 800 mirror lens and a 600-1300 telephoto) all have the same issues! Try the settings mentioned by others, i.e. auto iso, adjust f stop and speed accordingly and if allowed by the field rules a monopole. But above all go to the field and shoot test shots before the game! I shot stuff at night in low or limited lighting with good results, but I "ALWAYS" test just before.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

As stated VR or IS is not needed or used for shooting action. I would only think about using it if my shutter speed had to fall below 1/lens length setting many recommend as a minimum. At 200mm I would want a 1/200 shutter speed and even that would not likely stop all motion in most sports. 1/400 or two time the 200mm is even better. To me the best solution, but usually an expensive one is a body with great high ISO capability and after that comes faster glass. Sometimes a fast prime lens can be a solution. I shoot/shot a lot of sports and racing with an 85mm f/1.8 which focuses fast and cost about $350 new. If you can use flash that also helps but most high school sports will not want that. I often shoot drag racing at night at ISO 4000 to 10,000 and use flash too. Many tracks can be very dark at night...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Before you get too far into a GAS attack, give your equipment a try in actual night conditions, hopefully from the sidelines. Here's some examples from another Nikon owner with a 70-300 & Nikon D3400. The question started in the post relates to the occasional "dark" image where that model (and your D5600) does not have flicker control. But, the OP posted several fine examples of night time football (scroll down to their 2nd group of example images). The photographer is not going to be shooting for SI, but they are generating good to excellent results with entry-level equipment.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-485156-1.html

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

And if you are willing to shoot RAW and do some post processing you can probably shoot 2 stops under exposed and pull the images up to a better exposure in post processing. Of course you can also play with exposure compensation too. I would probably shoot in shutter priority as if the image is out of focus there is simply not much you can do to make it better...

Best,
Todd Ferguson

pnittoly Loc: Mountainside, New Jersey

Thanks so much everyone. Great advice. Will get out and do it.

twowheeler21

I shoot HS football with beginner's gear and no access. I just do the best I can. For what you are working with, play with exposure compensation, and don't use your zoom all the way out to 300. Stay in the mid 200's out to where the aperture increases. Neither the players nor the ball moves as fast as in some other sports. I'd say somewhere between 1/640 and 1/1000 on the shutter speed, as low as you can go without blur. Shoot the crowd, shoot the cheerleaders, shoot the band at halftime. Have fun.

pnittoly Loc: Mountainside, New Jersey

Thanks . Will do.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

You need a really fast lens at night! f/4.5 to f/6.3 is painfully slow, useful only in bright light, for daytime sports action.

A 300mm f/2.8 or a 70 to 200mm f/2.8 would be reasonably good. If you can get on the sideline, a 135mm f/2.0 would work fairly well. (I know, I just inspired the dreaded Gear Acquisition Syndrome or GA$. But slow lenses simply won't do the job. Unfortunately, good glass is pricey.)

Don't be afraid to bump the ISO up to 3200, or even 6400 if needed. Use shutter priority mode and keep the shutter to AT LEAST as fast as 1/(lens focal length * 1.5 — the crop factor) second. In other words, if the lens is 135mm, use a shutter speed of 1/250 or shorter (1/500 would be better, if you have enough light).

Also remember that VR/VC lenses will not eliminate action blur. They are good for long exposures of still subjects, but their only use for action is to reduce vertical movement of the camera. Some of those systems even have a mode that turns off horizontal vibration control and keeps vertical control on. This improves the look of scenes where you "panned" the camera along with the action while using a slow shutter speed.

pnittoly Loc: Mountainside, New Jersey

The support and valuable information has been outstanding. UH is the best. Thanks again.

ELNikkor

I've been looking at the D5600 myself, and would need it for much the same reasons. For the night games, you really do need a 70-200 2.8 zoom. I've seen Tamron for around $600 used.

pnittoly Loc: Mountainside, New Jersey

I like the D5600 although I've only had it a few months. I'm going to explore a used lens and also try different settings.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

You are going to need to use high ISO, fast zoom or prime lens and fast enough shutter speeds to stop motion and eliminate shake blur. Flash can also help but is often not allowed in such events, especially at the sidelines. You have to figure out what is the best combination of these components that you can put together.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

Tet68survivor Loc: Pomfret Center CT

I use to tell people, " don't buy used, your buying someone else's problem" but then I bought a brand new lens and guess what! Send it back and wait!