jt54 Loc: South East TN

Hey ya'll. I recently purchased a Nikon D3400 And it takes really good pictures. I take a lot of sports pictures and they turn out great until they are playing under the lights. When this occurs, and I try to zoom in, I am getting really bad shadows. My lens is a Nikon 70x300 (it came with the camera). When I am zoomed all the way out my f-stop is at 4.0 and does real well. However, as I zoom out, and the f-stop let's less light in, the shadows appear. I have played with around with different settings and can not get rid of them. My question is this: is there a combination of the settings that will help prevent this or a better zoom lens that will do the job better.

Thank you for your input.

Todd

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

We're all going to be unsure what exactly you mean by "shadows". Rather than attempting to describe your problem, could you instead post an example that demonstrates the problem? Preferably, a JPG file direct from the camera and be sure to check the 'store original' box so we can download and see the file in its full size on our end.

The typical Nikon 70-300 zoom has a variable aperture. That is, the lens is f/4 at 70mm. But, as you zoom to longer focal lengths, the aperture closes down to f/5.6. This part is clear. Your reference to "shadows" is where your description is unclear.

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Absolutely.

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Both pictures are from the same play.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I would guess the camera is in auto ISO. But, we need the files to be downloadable. You missed that part. You can make another response, but we need that "store original" box checked before you press <Add Attachment>.

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Ok I was not sure how to do that. I'll try to get some better examples also.

Thanks for your help.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Try posting again and make sure you check the save original box, so the metadata remains intact.
You have shadows on both photos, the aperture isn't going to make that go away. If the exposure settings are the same (and it's in the same part of the field) I would suspect the lighting in the stadium as the culprit. There are some cameras that have a "flicker reduction" feature that times the exposure so that the pulsed light of the sodium vapor (not sure if that the correct type) is compensated for. Without it, your exposure and color balance can vary. Nikon's D5 and 500 have it and I think
One of the D7xxx series as well. I had issues similar to this shooting an indoor graduation in a gym and the Nikon D500's flicker reduction feature made it go away. Don't confuse that with antiiflicker for video. Not the same.

"Flicker Reduction

A minor but very important new feature of the D500 is flicker reduction when shooting under 50/60 Hz lighting, such as fluorescent lighting. The D500 essentially detects the oscillation of light levels and minimizes this effect by shooting at the brightest moments.

This is of particular advantage for anyone who shoots sports or other high-speed photography, where minute changes in lighting exposure can ruin the best frames of a decisive moment."

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The brighter one doesn't look bad, but I'd like to "see" the details from an actual copy of the file. I have some other ideas, but want to be sure they're applicable from seeing the EXIF data (shooting data) from your examples.

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Each of these pairs of pictures are consecutive frames from continuous shots. I got the second pair in the wrong order.

I believe I shot these in aperture mode. I am trying to learn how to shoot without using"auto mode".

(Download)


(Download)


(Download)


(Download)

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I'll begin by saying these are really good! Well, minus the oddball colors. I see now why you referred to "shadows". I agree with Goofy you're capturing images during a burst where the lights have flickered. Mercury vapor, sodium vapor (as used in most stadiums and gyms) and LED's flicker at 100 and 120 Hz. The human eye doesn't see the flicker, but the shutter at just the right instant can be effected (a shutter speed at 1/100 or faster will be affected). A few of the newest cameras from Nikon and Canon have the ability to detect the cycle in the lighting and delay for an instant to not capture an image during the cycle in the lights. That said, I wouldn't rush out and get a replacement camera unless you have a specialized role in shooting sports. As said initially, your D3400 is performing great even with a one in every few frames with odd lighting. The image of the O-line, the final example, is shot at ISO-25600.

Although I too typically shoot in Aperture Priority, you might try instead Shutter Priority for these shots under the Friday Night Lights. Try the shutter at 1/500 in Auto ISO. The camera will control the aperture and ISO as you shoot. Your action shot with #41 with the ball was 1/200 which nearly froze the action. A little bit faster at 1/500 (or even 1/400) would better freeze the action (avoid blur due to subject movement).

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Great info. Thanks for the help. I will give it a try.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

The lighting in that stadium is not equivalent to the lights in a pro stadium. The D3400 is a good entry level level DX camera, but it is not a low light camera such as the D500. If you took those photos with the AF-P 70-300mm, you may have the one without VR. You appear to at least have steady hands. I only shoot outdoor day soccer and indoor basketball games using a DX 50mm f1.8. Not good for night football games. Too far away. The D500 also has flicker control for still photos and video. Your D3400, and my DX camera does not. Video only. The poor lighting in that stadium could be the problem. You could experiment with various higher ISO's. Or buy a better lens, such as a 70-200mm f2.8 would probably solve your problem. That's a true football game lens. Third party makes them less expensive than Nikon Brand. Keep experimenting. Good luck. Also try the video mode on the D3400. You have 29 minutes.

jt54 Loc: South East TN

Ups out of time...

Thanks for the information. It really helps. I will look in to that lens.

Thanks again. It is awesome to be able to get help like this.

Grnway Loc: Manchester, NH

Hi Todd,

Nice shots! I agree with the light flicker. I just shot a high school football game last Friday. I had a zoom lens capable of shooting down to a constant f2.8, so a major advantage. Even shooting in burst mode, I'll get one shot out of many in the burst that's totally different, which I'll attribute to light flicker. Not a major deal, since I'm in burst mode and will expect a few "throwaways".

I think you're doing well with the gear that you have. If you continue to shoot outdoor sports at night, you might consider a faster zoom.

mikeroetex Loc: Lafayette, LA

Agree with the light flicker. And HS stadiums are notorious for bad light! You're doing great with the equipment you have!