tommystrat Loc: Bigfork, Montana

I currently use a Nikon D7100 and one of my lenses is a Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-300 4.5 G ED where the autofocus motor in the lens has apparently crapped out. Manual focus works OK, but the AF will pick a focal point and then bounce around that spot, rendering the shots slightly out of focus. This does not occur with any of my other lenses, so I think the lens is the culprit. I would appreciate any recommendations for a replacement lens, preferably in the range of $500 or so. I would like to go to a 2.8 and can spend a bit more if that's what it takes. I primarily photograph landscapes, old buildings, and birds, hopefully in flight. I took a bunch of action pictures at a recent rodeo with this lens and NONE of them were in focus! Extremely unhappy about that! I am not a professional but a passionate amateur, and I don't want that to happen again! Thanks for any assistance, mates.

mleuck

Nikon 75-300mm VR is your best bet for your money. Don't see too many f2.8 zooms for $500. If you are willing and have the $$, the Nikon 200mm-500mm fv5.6 is a great lens.

AK Grandpa Loc: Anchorage, AK

Look at some of the Tamron zoom lenses. They can be had for close to your price range. I've been quite pleased with my Tamron 18-270 and my Tamron 18-400 . . . . . I think they also have a pretty good 70-300 . . .

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Are you sure the lens is at fault?

I'm of the opinion that about 8 out of 10 "camera and lens problems" are no fault of the gear at all... but are the user setting something incorrectly.

I shoot all kinds of equestrian events and it's pretty amazing how many people use the wrong focus mode. I hear their camera's "beeping", which is a clear indication that they're using the mode for stationary subjects, not the one for moving subjects. I believe Nikon calls the mode that will produce a "focus confirmation" beep "AF-S" (I shoot with Canon gear, where it's called "One Shot" mode... in my cameras the "beep" is optional, but I leave it turned on to remind me when I'm in that mode). Using that mode for moving subjects pretty much guarantees most shots will miss focus... maybe only by a little, maybe by a lot, depending upon the direction and speed of subject movement.

Should be using the continuous focusing mode for moving subjects... I think Nikon calls it "AF-C" (Canon calls it "AI Servo"). Since the focus is continuously updating to track moving subjects, there's no "focus confirmation" beep with this mode.

It's a dead give-away at any sort of action/sports event when I hear peoples' cameras "beeping", that they are going to be missing focus on most of their shots!

Another common thing is that most modern zoom lenses are "varifocal" designs. This means they don't maintain focus when zoomed. The lens needs to be refocused any time the focal length is changed. Using the continuous focus mode automatically corrects for this... but using the stationary subject mode won't unless the user consciously re-focuses the lens with the AF.

It might be that the other lenses where you aren't seeing any problem, it's only because you're using them for different types of subjects or they're shorter focal lengths with greater depth of field which always does a better job "hiding" minor focus errors.

If you plan to buy an f/2.8 telephoto, you'll especially want to be sure it's a problem with your lens and not with your technique and settings. Especially when used wide open, large aperture lenses have shallow depth of field and are very unforgiving of even minor focus errors.

Of course, maybe you're aware of all this and doing things just right... And it really is a failure of the AF system in the lens. That happens (I have a lens going in for AF repair now). I'm not sure the value of your 55-300mm, but it might be worth looking into the cost of repair versus the cost of replacement.

With a $500 budget you might find a Tamron, Tokina or Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8, though even with those you will need to consider used. You definitely won't find a Nikkor 70-200/2.8 for $500. The current Nikkor "FL" sells for about $2800, while the 70-200/2.8 VR II sells for about $2100.

But that only gets you to 200mm. The least expensive f/2.8 zoom that reaches 300mm is the Sigma 120-300mm. It sells new for $3600. You might find it used for under $2000. If you look for one used, there have been the more recent "OS" stabilized version and an older, non-OS, unstabilized version... Personally I'd hold out for the newer OS version, though it will be more expensive. Any version is a fairly large, heavy lens.... Over 7 lb. and uses 105mm diameter filters, if I recall correctly.

erinjay64

You won't find a long range zoom lens, with an F/2.8 aperture, for $500.00. You can get a superzoom bridge camera like the Nikon B700 (24-1440mm zoom equivalent) for $500.00, but it won't be F/2.8....just F/3.3-6.5. You can find an F/2.8 Prime lens, but it won't zoom at all, let alone out to 300mm. You need to decide which lens you really want...a long range zoom, or an F/2.8 lens, or a $500.00 lens. Photography is all about choosing compromises, because you will never get everything in one item.

Leitz Loc: Solms

Do you really nee a crutch like autofocus?

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

Have you tried autofocus in live view with single point autofocus? Are you using auto iso to get enough light? Live view uses contrast detect. It is slower than the phase detect with the viewfinder, but it is more accurate. I solved the problem of needing greater reach by putting my 55-300 on a used Nikon1 J1 (cost $80 on ebay) with the Nikon FT-1 autofocus adapter (cost about $250 new on Amazon). People say there's no difference with using a CX sensor (like the J1) which gives a longer apparent focal length (810mm equiv focal length on the 55-300 with the 2.7x crop factor) compared to cropping the pic on a DX or FX sensor. But in my experience it has often not been true. It doesn't take into account that when using contrast detect single point autofocus live view (the J1 has only live view, no view finder) the larger image on the CX sensor and lcd screen makes for better autofocus on distant objects like small birds at 40 or 50 ft.

via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

Apparently you do not shoot birds in flight as this person would like to do. By the time you focused manually the bird would be long gone!

Leitz Loc: Solms

Undoubtedly autofocus makes it much easier, but with a lot of practice, especially in honing one's panning skills, one can become quite proficient in capturing birds on the wing with a manual focus lens. Studying the birds' habits and anticipating their flight is also important. There were many dedicated bird photographers producing excellent photographs long before the advent of autofocus, fast lenses and high ISOs.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Used and KEH seem to be where you should look. I think that $500 limit is wishful thinking.

https://www.keh.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=nikon+80-200mm
https://www.keh.com/shop/catalogsearch/result/?q=Nikon+70-200mm+f%2F2.8

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

If your serious about birds in flight you may want to consider an upgrade to a Nikon that is much quicker and more accurate in focusing on moving birds. The D500 with GROUP AUTO FOCUS is the way to go. That said the new Nikon D7500 also has the GROUP AUTO FOCUS option. You hope of a zoom at 2.8 and at your price point really limits your choices. An older version of the Nikon 80-200 2.8 could be a good choice on Ebay, it will cost a little more than $500 but your close. The following is an example of what is out there, their are better ones and worst ones, you look, you pick, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Zoom-NIKKOR-AF-Zoom-NIKKOR-80-200mm-80-200mm-f-2-8-D-AF-ED-Lens-/122681906161?epid=220004420&hash=item1c906953f1:g:-UwAAOSwCL9Zqe-e

ELNikkor

Before you give up on the lens, go to the focus mode menu, it could be a simple setting adjustment

Nikonman44

Been there on a couple of occasions. First seriously is check to see if you accidentally moved the AF on the side of thee lens. I did and had the same results you described.

It can happen when you changed the lens and you might not of noticed it.

I think that lens has the AF and Vibration reduction switches( for no better description) right there together.

Happy shooting and clear focusing too.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Maybe he does, we don't know the OP and should consider the possibility that AF is required and go from there.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Any chance you could post the data from one of those out of focus shots? One of us might spot something that could help you out.