Bill_de wrote:
Joyce - There are two buttons on the camera with green dots next to them. One on the back and one on the top. Holding both buttons in for a few seconds will return the camera to the "original" settings as it came out of the box.
Excellent advice. That's where I would start to troubleshoot the problem. Reset the camera to the original factory settings and go from there. Youtube has some excellent videos on how to set up the camera according to your preferences.
lamontcranston wrote:
Excellent advice. That's where I would start to troubleshoot the problem. Reset the camera to the original factory settings and go from there. Youtube has some excellent videos on how to set up the camera according to your preferences.
Hate to be contrary, but I would suggest Joyce do nothing until we figure out what the real problem is. See my questions above. If Joyce gets satisfactory individual "frames" (images), why change any camera setting?
We need to see some full resolution individual images before going any further.
Wow. for panoramas use a tripod and remember that the edges are probably not as sharp as the focal point you shoot to.
Lens you use sometimes have a parralex .
You seem to be shooting inside mostly and not out side shots that could need a parralex lens
Try a little more overlapping at the edges and when you stitch you will be stitching in closer to the actual focal point of your lens.
Good luck and I guess the aperture would effect the parts of the room that are not central to your center on the fotos.
There seems to be some confusion to Me....some are talking about stitching as in panoramas..then you are talking about HDRI so are we doing HDRI panoramas ? If so HDRI images should be assembled before stitching .If straight stitching 20 percent overlap on each image is minimum. You should be in aperture priority or manual Atleast f8 level tripod if any for ground objects you need to find the nodal point. For HDRI 1 ev difference between brackets is normal. Like others are saying without an image it is hard to analyze. If you have not done stitched HDRI it will be tough to teach on here but not impossible . But not 6 people telling what to do .You need to pick one ,and everyone listen
If you want to do panoramas the right way pros use shift lenses like the fine 17mm 2.8 Canon or the 19 mm 2.8 tilt shift nikkor .This is what Clyde Butcher is doing with an a7r and the 17mm Canon no need to move camera just shift left shoot center shoot , shift right shoot , and stitch no parralax . I am still doing stitched HDRI panoramas with a d7100 and now a d810 . With a 20mm 2.8 but I am using a homemade nodal bracket and have my nodal point marked. Your camera has your focal plane marked that is not the nodal point the nodal point is the point were the lines of light cross to form the image on the focal plane . Some lenses company's can tell you the nodal point for their lenses if they are not zooms .
nikonbrain wrote:
But not 6 people telling what to do .You need to pick one ,and everyone listen.
But you chose to make it 7. Now that's confusing.
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Arbitrary my friend arbitrary but I know what I am talking about....
Joyce I have now seen your images I thought was an add .Your tripod seems to not be level and the stitched sections seem to be out of focus may I suggest you you manually focus at each station use mirror up mode with timer for mirror shake to settle down and use burst bracket . Before stitching you should repair any lens distortion.This type of work is easier done in Photoshop all images can be brought into Adobe camera raw as a stack and repaired before stitching .It is only $ 10.00 a month.
I have done a lot of what you are doing for contractors and realtors in homes .and commercial airports ..I used to use live view but went to a laptop to view and shoot . Nikon has a program for this I can't remember the name maybe someone on the hog knows .
nikonbrain wrote:
I have done a lot of what you are doing for contractors and realtors in homes .and commercial airports ..I used to use live view but went to a laptop to view and shoot . Nikon has a program for this I can't remember the name maybe someone on the hog knows .
The only question the OP asked is what her camera settings should be. Can you address that? Without knowing how to set the camera everything else is just taking space. Maybe that's why she seems to have already left the building.
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I think in camera HDR only works with jpegs on nikon cameras.
Bill_de wrote:
The only question the OP asked is what her camera settings should be. Can you address that? Without knowing how to set the camera everything else is just taking space. Maybe that's why she seems to have already left the building.
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Already done that apparently you can't read .
rehess
Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
Ira wrote:
I think in camera HDR only works with jpegs on nikon cameras.
So? Did the OP ever indicate that receiving JPEGs was a problem or having "raw" was important?
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