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A Toothed Belt And Lots Of Pulleys.
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Feb 4, 2017 23:31:04   #
Abo
 
melismus wrote:
My 2000 Outback Limited is still on original belts at 190,000 miles. It and wife's 1997 Legacy almost never need repair.


It seems appropriate that cars and motorcycles that are produced by aerospace companies (Subaru [FHI] and Kawasaki [KHI] for example) are reliable.

Having said that, your cam drive belts wiz around at very high rates. Driving
cams through the resistance of all those valve springs is hard work...
you ever turned an in situ cam over by hand?

If a cam belt fails there is the probability of the pistons having negative clearance with
the valves, causing catastrophic damage to pistons, cylinder heads, valves, even the cylinders
conrods crankcases and crankshaft in a worst case scenario. ie an engine can be turned into something that is
only fit for recycling into Coke cans or modern art.

On the other hand, a friend of a friend had a cheap "after market" cam belt fitted to
his Forester; the belt failed shortly after it was fitted and there was
no collateral damage he said.

It's hard to imagine how the pistons cleared the valves though.


Anyway, I'd be changing, or at least very carefully inspecting your cam belt soonest.
If you do that preventative maintenance, it would be great to see some photos
of the belt... particularly the "teeth".

Cheers,

Alan.

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Feb 4, 2017 23:36:19   #
Abo
 
Bunko.T wrote:
Looks like a flat opposed engine, Subaru, VW, but that was aircooled


It is a Sub Bunko. But you were beaten to it by Fuhman (at Feb 3, 2017 12:23:49 UHH time)

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Feb 5, 2017 01:10:05   #
Bunko.T Loc: Western Australia.
 
Abo wrote:
The cam belt may or may not be made by the same manufacturer
as the vehicle... in this case though I suspect the former.



I had a S/h 2004 Forrester that had the timing belt replaced with an aftermarket belt & tensioner pulley.
In very short time, the pulley bolt broke, with detrimental results.
Under warranty so fixed free.
Recommend using genuine parts.

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Feb 5, 2017 08:19:32   #
marine73 Loc: Modesto California
 
I understand that it was only on vehicles that were mfg through aug of 2011 and are operated in certain states. Check with the dealer to see if yours is covered by the SB.

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Feb 5, 2017 09:12:53   #
fhuhman Loc: Jefferson City, MO
 
I have replaced several timing belts, I use Gates brand and never had a problem. My 01 Outback has about 125K on the replaced belt, I know I should replace it again, but I am getting too old to work on cars, and I will wait and see how long it will last. When I replaced the belt I put the # 1 piston at TDC and the cam pulley would not turn over. I would think a broken belt would ruin the engine.

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Feb 5, 2017 09:29:21   #
Abo
 
fhuhman wrote:
I have replaced several timing belts, I use Gates brand and never had a problem. My 01 Outback has about 125K on the replaced belt, I know I should replace it again, but I am getting too old to work on cars, and I will wait and see how long it will last. When I replaced the belt I put the # 1 piston at TDC and the cam pulley would not turn over. I would think a broken belt would ruin the engine.


According to Wikapedea "Subaru EJ engine": http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine :

The SOHC EJ Subaru boxer engines were non-interference engines through 1995, run by a single timing belt driving both cams (both sides of the engine) and the water pump. Because they are non-interference engines, if the timing belt fails, the engine of the models up to 1995 will not be destroyed. Who'd a thunk it?

All DOHC and 1998-up SOHC EJ engines are interference engines, if the timing belt fails the engine will likely be destroyed or the valves & piston will be heavily damaged.

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Feb 5, 2017 09:39:29   #
Abo
 
Bunko.T wrote:
I had a S/h 2004 Forrester that had the timing belt replaced with an aftermarket belt & tensioner pulley.
In very short time, the pulley bolt broke, with detrimental results.
Under warranty so fixed free.
Recommend using genuine parts.


"Pully bolt broke"... That would cause some unpleasant side effects.

Maybe the mechanic overtightened the bolt causing it to snap?

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