frozenhermitphoto

Your first project of this sort, coupled with the fact that you don't want to spend a lot of money leads me to say Captain C's suggestion is exactly what I would do if I didn't already have the proper equipment. If you have to buy lighting equipment, don't go nuts.

There are several different suggestions on light setups in this thread, and I am sure that all of them will work. But trust me on this; if you do it the way Captain C suggests you will be happy with the results and so will the congregation. If they want it done next year, you could use the knowledge gained from this shoot to make it even better next time.

Best of luck, and please post a photo or two for us to see when you are finished.
Mike

rocketride Loc: Upstate NY

That depends, are you trying to take portraits or ignite newsprint?

rocketride Loc: Upstate NY

That depends, are you trying to take portraits or ignite newsprint?

All kidding aside, that rig should be adequate for the portraiture.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

You can do what you want with speedlights. You don't need to waste money on low cost low power monolights.

This image was taken this morning - using a single Sunpak Auto 444D at 1/4 power, Chimera Super Medium Softbox (36"x48"), ISO 640, F5.6. Softbox was off to one side, about 5 ft from the dog's nose. It was a tight space with not enough room between subjects and background, would have preferred 4-5ft. A 40x60 collapsible reflector provided subtle amount of fill on camera left side. Softbox was angled slightly towards the reflector.

The quality of light from an umbrella is different, and placing the light directly overhead will certainly ensure no one will be in someone else's shadow, but in my opinion overhead light in line with the camera is not nearly as flattering as directional light. But neither is wrong - it's just a different look.

(Download)

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

You don't care about filling a huge room when you're only taking head and shoulder shots of a family that is sitting within about 4 feet of a backdrop. Personally, I don't even use flash. I have a bunch of daylight CFLs in clamp-on worklamps from Home Depot that I clamp onto two tall stands, one on each side of the subjects, then let the lights run continuously which create zero heat. Easy, cheap, always daylight white balanced, and did I mention cheap?

bvargas Loc: Palm Harbor, Florida

Watch GaryFong.com/onelightportraits, using on camera flash w/lightdome. Less expensive way to go. BV

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

That light dome does not work as well as it seems to be shown in the video, I have one.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

What he doesn't tell you is that in order to get the maximum benefit, you have to be in a small room, with reflective surfaces, and the speedlight must be close to the subject - less than 3 ft - then it works ok. Otherwise, it becomes a very weak point source, with contrasty hard light. and 3/4 of the power goes up and behind the flash, so it eats up battery capacity and requires higher ISO.

A better solution for speedlight modifiers is the Better Bounce Card, but only if you get the Extra Large diffuser - then the light source is adequately large to soften the light considerably. The small and medium are no better than the tupperware.

Lucian Loc: From Wales, living in Ohio

Fully agree and you can buy yourself a white card stock at a craft shop and make one up yourself. Or even cut up milk jug and spray it white and use that shaped around you speed light.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I have made a few of these using thin foam sheets, purchased at an art supply store - they cost about $2 each and I can make two bounce cards the same size as the Extra Large Better Bounce Card. Been using them for years.

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

Thanks for the further insight. The better Bounce is a great idea, as well as his presentation but that's a huge price for a square foot of bendable plastic foam with a velcro strap.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Correct, that's why I went the DIY route.

I got something like this, but bigger and in white:

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/12-x-18-black-foam-sheet-5mm-330415/

And I used this information for my first iteration:

http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/10/11/diy-photography-hacks-make-a-foam-flash-diffuser-to-soften-portraits/

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

I make my own with those foam sheets as well, I actually sandwich some floral wire between a black and white foam sheet that I put together with 3-M 77 spray adhesive. That REALLY helps it keep the shape I want it in. I hold it on with some black rubber bands that came with an inner tube for my wife's bicycle tire. Those rubber bands have worked for a few years. Better than any of the "standard" rubber bands I've seen in the past.

If I were doing the project the OP was talking about, I would stick with Cliff's suggestion. For years, I fought with trying to do good lighting on family portraits. He did a critique with suggestions for me (same suggestion) and it works much better for anything other than one or 2 people. Remember, older people, which is what you'll probably get, are going to appreciate flat light. Side lighting accents all the wrinkles while flat light is the same as "beauty light" used in magazines. It makes the skin much more smooth.

Just remember, when in doubt, go with the advice Cliff gives you.

canon Lee

I use AlienBees lighting. 2) 1600w units for groups as well as individuals. I use umbrellas to soften the light . For individuals I set 2 elevated lights, close together. To get some modeling I set my fill light to 1/2 my KEY light. To illuminate a full figure shot, I have my Key higher than my fill light. The height is important for cast shadows on the floor and background. Back the subject off of the background at least 8 FT if possible. I set my lights first, then adjust my camera ( manual mode) to a good histogram. I have noticed that with young children its best to set the aperture so that the histogram is shy of the max white . Then I adjust for custom WB. I pay lots of attention to my histogram and tweak the aperture if the facial skin gets burn out. I would much rather have a slight under exposure, as in LR I can adjust the whites or highlights. Always shoot in RAW. If shadows are a problem I suggest you bounce off the ceiling without any umbrellas.
As you can see from all of the suggestions, that there is not just one way to set up lighting. It is good you experiment with all of the suggestions given here, so that you have more knowledge of doing the shoot. The more tricks you learn the more confident you will be. NOTE* Most of the samples shown here are head and shoulders shots, and shadows on the floor or background are cropped out.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)