How to get the sharpest hand held photos. (Page 4): You're going to need the sharp focus in either case.

rocketride Loc: Upstate NY

CHOLLY wrote:

Do you have Image Stabilization/Vibration Reduction/Optical Stabilization available? If not, then you WILL have to do it the old fashioned way, with sharp focus and shutter speed.

What are you trying to photograph?

You're going to need the sharp focus in either case.

MtnMan Loc: ID

buddah17 wrote:

Hello;
I want to shoot various scenes (etc..) without a tripod and was wondering the best way/set up to get the SHARPEST image. I would like to do 16 x 20, an even larger prints.
(EG: Is the shutter speed the most critical? Or the aperture, or ISO.? What about flash, or no flash?) Now I realize that a combination of all probably makes the best sense, but lets say I only have time to adjust one or two things?

You need high shutter speed and low ISO. Yes, shutter speed is most critical.

If you have VR, turn it on when handheld.

You need a high enough f-stop to have the DOF cover what you want...but no higher because it conflicts with the above two needs.

You need your focus where you want it so use single point focus.

Kelby has a series of great photography books. He dedicates the first one to tack sharp images. I feel it really helped me.

Jim Peters Loc: Pittsburgh

buddah17 wrote:

Hello;
I want to shoot various scenes (etc..) without a tripod and was wondering the best way/set up to get the SHARPEST image. I would like to do 16 x 20, an even larger prints.
(EG: Is the shutter speed the most critical? Or the aperture, or ISO.? What about flash, or no flash?) Now I realize that a combination of all probably makes the best sense, but lets say I only have time to adjust one or two things?

Practice,Holding Your Breath When You Shoot Anything Hand Held. Try To Brace Your Self Against Something. I Took These Images At 1/25 Shot Through Plexiglass At Entertrainment In West Chester Ohio

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Jim Peters wrote:

Practice,Holding Your Breath When You Shoot Anything Hand Held. Try To Brace Your Self Against Something. I Took These Images At 1/25 Shot Through Plexiglass At Entertrainment In West Chester Ohio

Was this a tilt shift lens or PP?

Jim Peters Loc: Pittsburgh

Just A Straight Macro

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

AH! The reason it looks like a display is because it is a display! I was unfamiliar with Entertrainment!

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

Not a true macro, but a close up...Still quite a nice capture

Jim Peters wrote:

Just A Straight Macro

anotherview Loc: California

Some misleading info here. In Manual shooting mode, you can adjust only one variable of the three: ISO, Shutter Speed, or Aperture.

You do not have to adjust at least two of three variables for a correct exposure. For example, you could adjust only the Shutter Speed by increasing it in order to reduce the time available for light to reach the camera sensor.

Better put because reflective of actuality: It's all about the expression of the light.

Let us agree, however, with the necessity of studying and understanding the Exposure Triangle for controlling the camera and lens to produce the desired exposure of an image in the camera -- a continuing challenge to the photographer.

Screamin Scott wrote:

You can't just adjust one thing. otherwise the exp... (show quote)

DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX

Excellent response. I'm going to try left-eye shooting. I'm having surgery in about 2 hours, left eye first, so it will be a while before I can practice.

Mr PC wrote:

I recently posted this article in Links and Resources about holding the camera correctly to be as steady as possible. There are 5 or 6 videos of very accomplished photographers showing you how and why they hold their cameras in various situations. Well worth a look. All the other advice you have gotten here has been very good, but not worth much without a steady camera. Good luck.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-253275-1.html

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

If you are in manual mode & you only adjust one variable, then your image will wind up either under or over exposed by the cameras meter, thus the reason behind having to change two variables. Now intentionally over or under exposing an image for a desired effect is another matter altogether........

anotherview wrote:

Some misleading info here. In Manual shooting mod... (show quote)

davidheald1942 Loc: Mars (the planet)

buddah17 wrote:

Hello;
I want to shoot various scenes (etc..) without a tripod and was wondering the best way/set up to get the SHARPEST image. I would like to do 16 x 20, an even larger prints.
(EG: Is the shutter speed the most critical? Or the aperture, or ISO.? What about flash, or no flash?) Now I realize that a combination of all probably makes the best sense, but lets say I only have time to adjust one or two things?

The aperture has nothing to do with sharpness. It does control the depth of field, so I suppose it does have something to do with sharpness.
ronny

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

davidheald1942 wrote:

The aperture has nothing to do with sharpness. It does control the depth of field, so I suppose it does have something to do with sharpness.
ronny

It has little to do with sharpness at the point of focus, but it has a lot to do with how much is sharply in focus.

anotherview Loc: California

You missed the point, and thus continue the misleading. Let me say it another way:

If in Manual mode for the camera, and if scene conditions change to affect the exposure, then the cameraman may change a single variable to adjust the camera or lens for capturing the desired exposure -- neither under- or over-exposed.

I operate my camera and lens this way all the time when doing landscape photography. Typically, when necessary to do so, I will first choose adjustment of the Shutter Speed to obtain a correct exposure.

If SS drops too low, then typically I will increase ISO to compensate to maintain correct exposure.

Lastly, I may adjust the Aperture, but as a rule I do not for wanting to keep the desired Depth of Field along with sharpness throughout the field of view.

I consult the Histogram to determine overall Exposure of the image.

Again, I suggest to study and understand the Exposure Triangle. Then practice use of the ET in the field, while learning from mistakes and successes.

Have a good day.

Screamin Scott wrote:

If you are in manual mode & you only adjust one variable, then your image will wind up either under or over exposed by the cameras meter, thus the reason behind having to change two variables. Now intentionally over or under exposing an image for a desired effect is another matter altogether........

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

"if scene conditions change to affect the exposure".... This is where the confusion is coming from.... In my scenario, I didn't say anything about scene conditions changing.... Of course if the conditions change, only one variable needs to be changed, which one being dependent on the desired outcome. If the conditions don't change & you change one of the variables, then you will either over or underexpose the scene.

Larrymc Loc: Mississippi

buddah17 wrote:

Hello;
I want to shoot various scenes (etc..) without a tripod and was wondering the best way/set up to get the SHARPEST image. I would like to do 16 x 20, an even larger prints.
(EG: Is the shutter speed the most critical? Or the aperture, or ISO.? What about flash, or no flash?) Now I realize that a combination of all probably makes the best sense, but lets say I only have time to adjust one or two things?

Great advice from everyone. One thing not covered in all of this is how you stand if the camera is hand held and not otherwise supported in other ways. I find that having a good base of feet shoulder width apart and one foot about a foot length in front of the other with knees slightly bent is a comfortable and steady platform for shooting hand held for certain shots.

Larrymc