buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

Hello;
I want to shoot various scenes (etc..) without a tripod and was wondering the best way/set up to get the SHARPEST image. I would like to do 16 x 20, an even larger prints.
(EG: Is the shutter speed the most critical? Or the aperture, or ISO.? What about flash, or no flash?) Now I realize that a combination of all probably makes the best sense, but lets say I only have time to adjust one or two things?

Bill Houghton Loc: New York area

Perhaps you should look at the way you are holding the camera. That to me would be more of a concern.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

You can't just adjust one thing. otherwise the exposure would be wrong... Aperture, ISO & shutter speed are inextricably woven together. You have to adjust at least 2 of them to retain the same exposure... In the end, it's all about the light, or lack of, that makes it ...As long as you know how changing settings is going to affect the image, you have to determine what settings are more important to the final outcome.... Learn to brace yourself better .... Oh, the lens in use & the settings in use can have an affect on sharpness too.... Smaller aperture introduce diffraction. Zooms tend to be softer at the extremes of their ranges (especially consumer grade ones) and then you also have to account for wider apertures shallow DOF... Lots of variables in play here, thus without knowing the gear, it makes answering this question a crap shoot.

CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

Do you have Image Stabilization/Vibration Reduction/Optical Stabilization available? If not, then you WILL have to do it the old fashioned way, with sharp focus and shutter speed.

What are you trying to photograph?

LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY

Shutter speed is important. The faster the speed the less likely that movement, whether from the camera or your subject, will show up. The longer the focal length the more sensitive your camera will be to movement. Stabilization can work wonders under the right conditions, but there are times when it is considered better to turn it off. Primarily, when your shutter speed is higher then your focal length. For example, if you are shooting at 105mm with a 1/200th shutter speed. Practice holding your camera steady. Repeat a shot while holding it in various ways and compare the results. Flash helps in some instances but it's range and effectiveness have limitations. Like many things in photography, practice is your best friend.

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

You are entirely overlooking the fact that the LENS has more to do with sharp images than the camera does. Proper technique is still critical though.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

If you mean "not have camera shake" when you use the word "sharp" then it's simply a matter of holding the camera steady enough while pulling the trigger.

Whatever lens you use, then use AT LEAST a shutter speed of 1/lens focal length.

Example: 200mm lens = minimum shutter speed with no shake is 1/250.

That may not be perfectly true in your case...I can't hold a DSLR very steady and so I use an even higher shutter speed generally speaking.

You have to figure out your "shakiness" limits.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

If you won't have time to adjust all three, I'm guessing you're photo'ing wildlife? And in changing light conditions (such as shade to sun)?

Try putting the ISO on auto, and use shutter priority by setting your shutter speed as suggested above. Let the camera choose the f/stop (aperture).

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

What matters is how do you want your scene to look. Example: Do you want to have a cluster of brightly colored leaves in focus with the background out of focus, or do you want to show three distinctive layers fore, middle, and background all in focus? If DOF is important you will want to make sure your f-stop is correct f-11 to f-22 for instance for everything in focus, f2.8 to f4 for selected focus. As long as you use the rule of shutter speed vs. lens length you should be ok on shutter speed. Example: If you are using a 100mm lens, keep the shutter speed at or above 100th of a sec. This will suffice for static objects but if you are trying to freeze blowing leaves, you may have to go to 1000th of a sec. ISO is whatever you need to achieve the best balance between the other elements. Keep in mind the higher ISO = more noise. Most DSLRs in particular those made within the last two or three years will handle up to ISO 800 with little degradation of the image. ISO 200 to 400 would be optimum. Your question is so subjective there is no one good answer. As far as techniques, there are several things you can do to improve a handheld shot: In the wild, brace the camera against a tree to steady a shot, in the city, the side of a building.
In a field, set down and raise your knees -- use your legs as two parts of a tripod and your head as the third leg. You can also tie a cord to a screw (standard 1/4x20) inserted into the tripod socket. Stand on the cord at the correct length to get the camera to your eye and keep the cord taught. This will help steady the camera. In nature there is often a stump, log, or rock you could sit the camera on and use the self-timer to eliminate camera shake. In the city find a post, ledge, or park bench to do the same. Forget flash. Scenes seldom lend themselves to flash as the distances are too great. The exception would be trying to illuminate a foreground that is in shade to give definition and somewhat balance the light in the middle and background. Hope some of what I've listed will help.

buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

Thank you so much for your concise reply. I realized after I posted the blog that I should have added the equipment. It's a Canon 70D, the "package" Canon 18-135 mm lens, an (older) Canon 50 mm 1.8f SM lens, and I have the older 75-300 Canon SM lens on order. I understand what you are saying regarding the variables, I guess what I meant to say is that I get good exposures, but sometimes when I blow the image up, it's much softer than when it was smaller. Let me try some more precise questions:
Keeping in mind that the idea is to enlarge a hand held exposure:
-If the depth of field is shallow, would the subject matter that IS in focus tend to be more or less sharp than an exposure done with a larger depth of field?
-If I use a real fast shutter speed, would a higher (or lower ISO) create a more sharp final image?
-What about a lower ISO and a slower shutter speed?
-Would a fill in flash help sharpen the final image?
Any other tips about shooting for a sharp image without a tripod? Thanks

buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

Thanks. I was trained how to hold the camera, but if I had to be honest, sometimes I "forget!" (Old timers disease...)

buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

In the photos I have shot so far, yes I do have the stabilizing help. Speaking of "sharp focus" I'm from the old school and it SEEMED easier to focus with my old film camera than these digital ones..

Bill Houghton Loc: New York area

I meant what I said in all sincerity. I know sometimes I get out there, see a few big horn. I know there going to go over the rise and be gone and in the rush grabbing the camera just to get a few shoots off, only to have it not steadied enough to get a good solid picture. LOL

buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer. Hadn't heard about shutter speed v.s. focal length. Are you saying that IS should be turned OFF wen the shutter speed is higher to produce a sharper image?

buddah17 Loc: The Bahamas

Thanks. Yes (sadly) I do realize that.. But I am trying to get the MOST out of the "lesser!"