ASSIGNING BACK BUTTON AE/AF FEATURE FOR TAKING PHOTOS
Aug 17, 2014 11:25:08 #
madskier wrote:
The only negative thing about BBF is that using a remote shutter release will not activate auto focus.
You must either revert to as it was or pre focus manually.
Also, letting someone else take a shot with your cam may be confusing to that person
You must either revert to as it was or pre focus manually.
Also, letting someone else take a shot with your cam may be confusing to that person
True. My work around in the first instance is to have one of my custom function settings for remote-then takes just a twist of the dial. In the second instance I simply dial the camera to the dreaded A setting. No confusion for the person taking the picture and, in many cases, probably a whole lot safer in terms of the results.
Aug 17, 2014 11:39:47 #
Aug 17, 2014 11:56:16 #
Hmmm... I am surprised that nobody mentioned using the button to toggle between AF & MF, which is how I programmed it on my a77. I use manual often enough that this made sense rather than clumsily finding the switch on the front of the body. I find that once I set focus by pressing the shutter release half way I can release it and when I'm ready to snap there is almost no delay (assuming the subject has not moved). I might be missing something here. What is the advantage of bbf over simply pressing the shutter release half way? Is it to lock focus? Or to set focus but not exposure?
Aug 17, 2014 11:59:30 #
X-Gear
Loc: Philadelphia
Newbie here... Isn't hitting the back button AF the same as using AE/AF button for AE/AF lock?
Edit:
I meant to quote photon56:
"I used it for awhile and liked it. I've since gone back to using the AE/AF button for AE/AF lock to help me frame my photos better."
Edit:
I meant to quote photon56:
"I used it for awhile and liked it. I've since gone back to using the AE/AF button for AE/AF lock to help me frame my photos better."
Aug 17, 2014 12:35:53 #
sirlensalot
Loc: Arizona
Have used it for about a year after some experimenting with it for 6 months prior. I will continue using this feature, finding it very practical overall.
Aug 17, 2014 13:20:29 #
boberic wrote:
I use BBF. Don't understand why my 7D didn't come set up that way. All us old film camera guys learned topush the shutter gently all the way down, to avoid camera shake.
I don't understand why you say your 7D didn't come set up that way? I bought my 7D back in 2007 and the BFF button (AF) was programed and works well. My 6D works the same way.
It can be programmed to eliminate the shutter button focus, however for myself I prefer to have both buttons active. When both buttons are setup it is necessary when using BFF to continue depressing the BFF for successive shots or continuous shooting to maintain the original focus. Otherwise the shutter button will attempt to refocus when pressed again.
I hope I have expressed this properly with the correct information in an understandable way.
Aug 17, 2014 15:06:11 #
gvarner
Loc: Central Oregon Coast
Just started using this feature myself on my D7000. Need lots of practice to make it automatic. The main advantage I see is the follow focus capability of AF-C when holding the back button down while the subject moves towards or away from you. The second is the switch to AF-S when you let go the back button without having to change the mode to AF-S. Focus stays locked until you press it again. Almost like continuous to manual focus with one button. Almost
Aug 17, 2014 15:57:13 #
I've given this technique two separate tries and simply can't get on with it.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
Aug 17, 2014 16:26:55 #
It takes lots of practice. Then it works great for action and multiple shots especially.
Practice, practice practice.
Practice, practice practice.
rob s wrote:
I've given this technique two separate tries and simply can't get on with it.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
Aug 17, 2014 16:27:37 #
I have read about it for some time, and I finally tried it. I think that I like it. It takes a little getting used to, but I think that it works great.
Aug 17, 2014 17:12:37 #
PhotosBySteve wrote:
It takes lots of practice. Then it works great for action and multiple shots especially.
Practice, practice practice.
Practice, practice practice.
Well I thought the two week long sessions and 1,000 + frames I spent with this experiment were a fair effort.
My problem with the action shots was that I was always 1 shot slower than by letting the shutter release button do the job. With many of these shots the first shot is the only one you get 8-(.
I think if the problem was simply lack of practice I'm not going to be putting in more than the time I've already spent.
I can see this for birds on a twig but for aerobatics - no thanks.
Aug 17, 2014 17:17:27 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
I've been using BBF for many years...
A little history... On Canon cameras it used to be that the only way to do BBF was to assign it to the */AR Lock button, before they got smart and put the AF-On button on their cameras (if I recall correctly, beginning with the 40D).
Even then, anyone using a vertical/battery grip on 40D or 50D still had to use the */AE Lock button, because altho the camera body had an AF-On button, the BG-E2 and BG-E2N grips didn't have one. As a result, you had to set those cameras to BBF either with AE-Lock full time (not good) or with no means of AE-Lock (could still switch to M mode and use that to Lock exposure settings).
Finally with 60D, 5DII and later models, all the cameras and the grips have AF-On buttons.
On these, you don't so much enable BBF... By default it's already assigned to both the shutter button and the AF-On button on the rear of the camera... With 60D, 7D, 5DII/III, etc. you disable AF from the shutter release with the custom button assignment function.
Even using the later cameras now, I still reassign BBF to the */AE-Lock button. Partially this is because it's what I'm accustomed to, having used those older models where it was the only way to do BBF for many years.... But also because the */AE-Lock button is larger, more prominent and closer to my thumb. It just makes more sense to me to use that since I focus every shot. To me, much less frequently used AE-Lock is better assigned to the smaller, more distant AF-On button.
I can't see where it would make any difference whether using right or left eye. In fact, I often trade-off and use left eye, even though I'm right eye dominant. Sometimes in the course of a long day's shoot, my right eye gets tired. I have no problem using BBF and left eye to the viewfinder.
That's a great idea... To set up a custom mode (C1, C2, C3) on 7D that reverts the camera to the default mode, if you use remote release a lot.
To me BBF just seems more natural, feels like I'm more in control of AF. It's especially helpful with moving subjects.
But it also allows you to do focus and recompose technique while using AI Servo. That's not possible without BBF. Just focus, lift pressure off the back button to stop focusing, recompose and take your shot. (If the shutter release were still controlling AF, the camera would refocus somewhere you don't want when you recompose.)
The only "problems" I have with BBF are...
1. If I loan the camera to someone I either have to teach them to use it or turn it off if they are unfamiliar with BBF. It takes a little practice initially, but quickly becomes second nature.
2. If using a pre-focus or hyperfocal focusing technique, after I've set the focus to the point I want, I have to consciously make myself not activate AF again with BBF when I reframe the image or start to track a subject as they approach the pre-focused point. After using BBF for many years, it's not easy to not do it automatically.
For Canon users, there's more info about BBF here:
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml
You aren't using it correctly... BBF is most ideal when shooting action such as air shows, dog parks, kids or flying birds....
Not sure what you are doing, but I try to anticipate the subject and start focus while tracking them, well in advance of taking the shot. Then I continue tracking them to take any subsequent shots. It's important and takes a little work to keep the AF point right on the subject... but it's possible. You'd probably get a lot better with practice, too (I know I did... and that when I haven't been shooting very much for a while I get a little lower keeper rate until I'm back in practice).
For example...
Note: you must be in AI Servo focus mode (if shooting Canon), or the equivalent in other makes of camera.
A little history... On Canon cameras it used to be that the only way to do BBF was to assign it to the */AR Lock button, before they got smart and put the AF-On button on their cameras (if I recall correctly, beginning with the 40D).
Even then, anyone using a vertical/battery grip on 40D or 50D still had to use the */AE Lock button, because altho the camera body had an AF-On button, the BG-E2 and BG-E2N grips didn't have one. As a result, you had to set those cameras to BBF either with AE-Lock full time (not good) or with no means of AE-Lock (could still switch to M mode and use that to Lock exposure settings).
Finally with 60D, 5DII and later models, all the cameras and the grips have AF-On buttons.
On these, you don't so much enable BBF... By default it's already assigned to both the shutter button and the AF-On button on the rear of the camera... With 60D, 7D, 5DII/III, etc. you disable AF from the shutter release with the custom button assignment function.
Even using the later cameras now, I still reassign BBF to the */AE-Lock button. Partially this is because it's what I'm accustomed to, having used those older models where it was the only way to do BBF for many years.... But also because the */AE-Lock button is larger, more prominent and closer to my thumb. It just makes more sense to me to use that since I focus every shot. To me, much less frequently used AE-Lock is better assigned to the smaller, more distant AF-On button.
I can't see where it would make any difference whether using right or left eye. In fact, I often trade-off and use left eye, even though I'm right eye dominant. Sometimes in the course of a long day's shoot, my right eye gets tired. I have no problem using BBF and left eye to the viewfinder.
That's a great idea... To set up a custom mode (C1, C2, C3) on 7D that reverts the camera to the default mode, if you use remote release a lot.
To me BBF just seems more natural, feels like I'm more in control of AF. It's especially helpful with moving subjects.
But it also allows you to do focus and recompose technique while using AI Servo. That's not possible without BBF. Just focus, lift pressure off the back button to stop focusing, recompose and take your shot. (If the shutter release were still controlling AF, the camera would refocus somewhere you don't want when you recompose.)
The only "problems" I have with BBF are...
1. If I loan the camera to someone I either have to teach them to use it or turn it off if they are unfamiliar with BBF. It takes a little practice initially, but quickly becomes second nature.
2. If using a pre-focus or hyperfocal focusing technique, after I've set the focus to the point I want, I have to consciously make myself not activate AF again with BBF when I reframe the image or start to track a subject as they approach the pre-focused point. After using BBF for many years, it's not easy to not do it automatically.
For Canon users, there's more info about BBF here:
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml
rob s wrote:
I've given this technique two separate tries and simply can't get on with it.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
I find it costs me shots when shooting in rapid action situations.
If this is a result of my poor technique I would like to hear how I can make it work but at air shows and dog parks, with kids and flying birds I find reflexive shooting all but impossible.
You aren't using it correctly... BBF is most ideal when shooting action such as air shows, dog parks, kids or flying birds....
Not sure what you are doing, but I try to anticipate the subject and start focus while tracking them, well in advance of taking the shot. Then I continue tracking them to take any subsequent shots. It's important and takes a little work to keep the AF point right on the subject... but it's possible. You'd probably get a lot better with practice, too (I know I did... and that when I haven't been shooting very much for a while I get a little lower keeper rate until I'm back in practice).
For example...
Note: you must be in AI Servo focus mode (if shooting Canon), or the equivalent in other makes of camera.
Aug 17, 2014 19:10:55 #
Bear2 wrote:
I use BBF all the time on both my dslr bodies.
Duane
Duane
Me too, always have, even on the film cameras.
Aug 17, 2014 21:44:33 #
amfoto1 wrote:
I've been using BBF for many years... br br A lit... (show quote)
As an ex skeet shooter and long time action photographer I have absolutely no probably tracking and following through the shot. I thought I'd made it clear that it's the speed of getting the FIRST shot that I have a problem with. When you have a subject such as your horse - great shots BTW - you can see them coming and prep for your shot. With an aircraft coming up from behind the bleachers you're sitting on, or a dog suddenly jumping in the air you have almost no time to get the focus spot on the subject and squeeze the shutter.
I haven't managed to find the time to get focusing done separately with the back button and then press the shutter.
My bad I know but I don't have a problem with the type of shot you so beautifully demonstrated it's the sudden reflexive type of shot that I'm losing - that all important first shot. Because so far I haven't been able to make two steps happen as quickly as one.
I simply don't find using two buttons as fast as a single one.
Aug 17, 2014 22:00:27 #
quagmire
Loc: Greenwood,South Carolina
Have had my a55 2 years. Just learned yesterday that it has bbf. Seems good.
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