Price of Sigma 105 2.8 macro (Page 2): Most macro-photographers baby their macro lenses. I purchased a used Nikkor 105D in immaculate condition, then sold it 2-years later for same...

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

jimmix7 wrote:

just found second hand one in my local store immac condition £299 , should I go for it or not,, 6mths warrenty, ???

Most macro-photographers baby their macro lenses. I purchased a used Nikkor 105D in immaculate condition, then sold it 2-years later for same price. I then purchased a used Nikkor 105G in excellent condition, and am still using it weekly (the A-F does a better job than my eyes).

bigwolf40 Loc: Effort, Pa.

Buy from Sigma,B&H or Adorama and you will be on the safe side. I have that lens and it is a good lens. When I purchased the lens I paid 900 something dollars for it in the Canon mount...Rich

Depot Doc Loc: Greenville, NC

Adorama always lists whether a lens is grey market or US warranty. I'm not sure about other retailers.

jimmix7 Loc: England

Thanks for the feedback.. I decided to buy new as I got 3yrs warranty,, Paid £399. They would not match Jessops price of £379.. Would have bought from Jessops ,, but they messed me about for too much,,,Thanks again
Jimmy.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

£399 = US$670.00

jimmix7 Loc: England

Thanks for all the feedback,,, Can anyone out there explain , with these prime sharp lenses,,when shooting a portrait head shot . the eyes are pin sharp zoomed in at %100. Shooting a full length at 15 ft and focusing on the eye at the eye is not sharp at all... how far would I expect to be away from the subject before I lose the pin sharpness in the eye, is it a must to have the eye pin sharp on a full length shot when zoomed in %100. . This has bugged me for ages and I always try and get the eye sharp no matter what distance away, , Thanks again for the advice and help
Jimmy

bigwolf40 Loc: Effort, Pa.

Use your cameras CENTER SPOT focusing and put that on the eyes. In fact once you start using it you will learn to use it most of the time for everything at least that's what I found and that is all I use....Rich

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

bigwolf40 wrote:

Use your cameras CENTER SPOT focusing and put that on the eyes. In fact once you start using it you will learn to use it most of the time for everything at least that's what I found and that is all I use.

Exactly! SMALL center spot only for Auto-Focus.
OR
With lens in Manual focus, go to Live View, hit the "+" button several times to increase image size on LCD screen. Using a HoodLoupe, fine focus here, then proceed as normal.

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Jimmy at 15 feet away for a full length shot what lens are you using? Maybe post a photo.

Bram boy Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada

jimmix7 wrote:

Hi has anyone any idea why the price of the Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro Lens is vastly different at Amazon for the Canon and the Nikon, the Nikon is much more expensive, is it the same Lens or am I missing something, Thanks Jimmy

I'm having trouble getting my head around your question . the only thing I can see is that the canon and nikon have always been more costly for the same len's as when made by , sigma , tamron , tokina, they are not as good
an optic as according to test done on them , there getting better . I don't think it has any thing to do supply and demand .

jimmix7 Loc: England

bigwolf40 wrote:

Use your cameras CENTER SPOT focusing and put that on the eyes. In fact once you start using it you will learn to use it most of the time for everything at least that's what I found and that is all I use....Rich

I usually do use the center spot, but because the Nikon D7100 has 51 focus points I thought rather than re-compose I would use the nearest spot to the eye,(that was the whole idea of these focus points).I just bought the Sigma 105 2.8 and tested it taking loads of pics, Close up then moving away a step at a time, The image deteriorates each step back My thought is how far back would you expect the image to remain tack sharp.
I have tried this with all my lenses all wide open and at F8 with center spot and others,, ( I had a previous post on concerning the Tamron 24-70 2.8) which acts in the same way.. Am I to expect a tack sharp image at 15 foot.. or do I expect too much from my D7100.

bigwolf40 Loc: Effort, Pa.

Nikonian72 wrote:

Exactly! SMALL center spot only for Auto-Focus.
OR
With lens in Manual focus, go to Live View, hit the "+" button several times to increase image size on LCD screen. Using a HoodLoupe, fine focus here, then proceed as normal.

I think you got it buy to be honest I haven't tried the second part since I don't have a Hoodloupe but you have given me a good suggestion. I guess that's something else for me to buy....Rich

bigwolf40 Loc: Effort, Pa.

jimmix7 wrote:

I usually do use the center spot, but because the ... (show quote)

I don't know about a your camera since I use canon and I don't use all the focus points. I just set my camera up for center focus point only and that seems to work for me. Remember there is a switch on the lens for two setups, closeups and for non closeups which you should set according to your shooting....Rich

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Have a look at this.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm
Depending on where you place your DoF...say your 24-70 lens at 70mm with F2.8...wide open and your 15 feet from your subject you only have about 18 inches of "acceptable focus" to work with.

Note: At 10 feet away you only get a little over 6 inches of DoF.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

jimmix7 wrote:

I usually do use the center spot, but because the Nikon D7100 has 51 focus points I thought rather than re-compose I would use the nearest spot to the eye,(that was the whole idea of these focus points).

If ALL 51 points of focus are active, then your cameras will compromise settings, trying to get as many of those points in focus at one time.

I still believe that you need just one small spot for focus, which starts in the center, but you can use the arrow buttons to move anywhere within the viewfinder.