Manual Focus vs. Auto focus
Sep 24, 2013 12:31:34 #
You have a lot of great replies here, Gina. Only thing I could add would be try the Back-Button focus. Your manual should have info on how to do this with your camera. Once the focus is set, you will not loose it. You will not have to worry about focus changing if you hit the shutter again. Some like this, some don't. It is a matter of getting comfortable with it.
Have fun!
Have fun!
Sep 24, 2013 14:30:33 #
Pentony
Loc: Earth Traveller
GinaP wrote:
I am trying to learn my focus more. I want crisp images and am having a hard time achieving this. I shoot with my T31, 50mm. I also am working on natural lighting, and have a problem with eyes, I know to find shade and the close eyes then open, how else can I achieve crisp, eyes? Thanks, Gina
Whose eyes, yours or the person being photographed?
Sep 24, 2013 14:34:01 #
With your T3i you can achieve extremely sharp focus if you use a tripod and use Live View and digital zoom. By zooming in on the point you want in focus in Live View, you can achieve perfect focus wherever in the picture you want. You can move the point that you are viewing in Live View using the cross keys on the back of the camera.
Once you zoom back out, you can recompose the picture if needed, but the point you focused on will remain in perfect focus.
Once you zoom back out, you can recompose the picture if needed, but the point you focused on will remain in perfect focus.
Sep 24, 2013 14:49:10 #
Sep 24, 2013 15:16:08 #
A lot of good advice here. I have one wide angle manual lens I like to use and in good light my eyes can focus OK, but there are times when I just can't depend on my eyes. Also, while the lens does have a distance scale, it is not accurate.
What I ended up doing is using the Hyperfocal distance method. To do that I placed a piece of masking tape over the distance scale marks (wasn't accurate anyway). With my Pentax I was able to tether the camera directly to my laptop for faster feedback. In a controlled environment with good light & tape measure I set up my focus charts. I focus using live view to get the most accurate results and being able to view the results at full resolution on the laptop I started marking distance marks on the tape. First at minimal focusing distance, then at selective distances up to infinity.
To use this info with Hyperfocal distance I use "Depth of Field" calculator that is a free program for my phone & computer.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
I use my masking tape marks for about everything now. I just estimate the distance, line up the marks on the lens, consult the DOF calculator if needed. I can so this in the dark if needed.
What I ended up doing is using the Hyperfocal distance method. To do that I placed a piece of masking tape over the distance scale marks (wasn't accurate anyway). With my Pentax I was able to tether the camera directly to my laptop for faster feedback. In a controlled environment with good light & tape measure I set up my focus charts. I focus using live view to get the most accurate results and being able to view the results at full resolution on the laptop I started marking distance marks on the tape. First at minimal focusing distance, then at selective distances up to infinity.
To use this info with Hyperfocal distance I use "Depth of Field" calculator that is a free program for my phone & computer.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
I use my masking tape marks for about everything now. I just estimate the distance, line up the marks on the lens, consult the DOF calculator if needed. I can so this in the dark if needed.
Sep 24, 2013 16:07:59 #
GinaP wrote:
Do you use manual or auto focus?
Auto focus is fine if you have enough light to lock it in.
Sep 24, 2013 16:12:58 #
And there are no other objects nearby to throw it off (such as trying to capture a bird amongst branches). Or in the case of shooting macro...
Meives wrote:
Auto focus is fine if you have enough light to lock it in.
Sep 24, 2013 18:42:43 #
If you really want to manual focus I'd suggest purchasing one of the Split-Prism focus screens available for your camera. You'd be surprised how easily you can achieve sharp focus with a good screen. Don't worry about the "goes dark above Xf-stop" because DSLRs hold the aperture wide open until photo is taken. If you want to check one out take a look at almost any older 35mm SLR.
Sep 24, 2013 18:50:13 #
They will also go half dark if you are not looking directly straight on to the viewfinder...Irregardless of the lenses maximum aperture...
OonlyBonly wrote:
If you really want to manual focus I'd suggest purchasing one of the Split-Prism focus screens available for your camera. You'd be surprised how easily you can achieve sharp focus with a good screen. Don't worry about the "goes dark above Xf-stop" because DSLRs hold the aperture wide open until photo is taken. If you want to check one out take a look at almost any older 35mm SLR.
Sep 24, 2013 20:08:47 #
Plus, most AF lens, with their short focus throw are harder to focus manually than the older MF lenses are on DSLR's
OonlyBonly wrote:
If you really want to manual focus I'd suggest purchasing one of the Split-Prism focus screens available for your camera. You'd be surprised how easily you can achieve sharp focus with a good screen. Don't worry about the "goes dark above Xf-stop" because DSLRs hold the aperture wide open until photo is taken. If you want to check one out take a look at almost any older 35mm SLR.
Sep 25, 2013 04:17:44 #
I once had an F4. When it was stolen, the only thing I missed was my Noct. I replaced it with an F3hp and never looked back. I never liked the AF lenses.
If I ever buy a full-frame DSLR body... I'll continue to use the 15 different MF lenses that I have collected over the years.
Bill Cain
Pittsburgh, PA
If I ever buy a full-frame DSLR body... I'll continue to use the 15 different MF lenses that I have collected over the years.
Bill Cain
Pittsburgh, PA
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