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Manual Focus vs. Auto focus
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Sep 23, 2013 11:48:56   #
GinaP
 
I am trying to learn my focus more. I want crisp images and am having a hard time achieving this. I shoot with my T31, 50mm. I also am working on natural lighting, and have a problem with eyes, I know to find shade and the close eyes then open, how else can I achieve crisp, eyes? Thanks, Gina

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Sep 23, 2013 11:49:33   #
GinaP
 
Do you use manual or auto focus?

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Sep 23, 2013 11:59:36   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
Focusing manually with an auto focus lens is difficult. Reason being, the amount of travel to get from the minimum focus point to infinity is normally very short on an AF lens. That is because the lens is made so as the distance that the lens has to travel is shorter & thus focus will be achieved faster. But it also means that even a slight bump of the focus ring will change the focal point. Older manual focus lenses had a long "throw" that allowed for more precise focus when used with a split image or microprism focus screen. I'd stick with AF on your AF lens. Make sure you are using the correct points "point" when composing your picture. Choose the central one one for critical focus, keeping the shutter button partially depressed so the focus point doesn't change when you recompose the shot. Hope this helps...

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Sep 23, 2013 12:03:45   #
silver Loc: Santa Monica Ca.
 
GinaP wrote:
I am trying to learn my focus more. I want crisp images and am having a hard time achieving this. I shoot with my T31, 50mm. I also am working on natural lighting, and have a problem with eyes, I know to find shade and the close eyes then open, how else can I achieve crisp, eyes? Thanks, Gina


Shooting manually is the way to go. Take your time, brace yourself well and practice. For really sharp images get a good tripod.

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Sep 23, 2013 12:05:13   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
Page 85 of your manual 'Selecting The AF Point' will help you define what you are focusing on.

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Sep 23, 2013 12:10:59   #
LLucas Loc: Upstate South Carolina, USA
 
Screamin Scott wrote:
Focusing manually with an auto focus lens is difficult. Reason being, the amount of travel to get from the minimum focus point to infinity is normally very short on an AF lens. That is because the lens is made so as the distance that the lens has to travel is shorter & thus focus will be achieved faster. But it also means that even a slight bump of the focus ring will change the focal point. Older manual focus lenses had a long "throw" that allowed for more precise focus when used with a split image or microprism focus screen. I'd stick with AF on your AF lens. Make sure you are using the correct points "point" when composing your picture. Choose the central one one for critical focus, keeping the shutter button partially depressed so the focus point doesn't change when you recompose the shot. Hope this helps...
Focusing manually with an auto focus lens is diffi... (show quote)


Helpful advice- thanks!

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Sep 23, 2013 12:28:57   #
MagicMark
 
I use the Auto focus most of the time since my eyes are not what they used to be.

I just set the focus point to be the center point then I put that point on the precise spot that I want focused. Then I hold down the shutter button half way and when the image is focused I keep holding the shutter button half way and then recompose the shot. This seems to work fine for me.

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Sep 23, 2013 12:43:15   #
jrb1213 Loc: McDonough GEorgia
 
Have you adjusted the diopter to you eyes?

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Sep 23, 2013 12:48:59   #
Musket Loc: ArtBallin'
 
One of the issues with MF on a lot of entry level cams is that the Viewfinder just isnt made for MF very well. My dad has problems Manual Focusing all teh time with his camera with his poor eyesight and the fact that they dont come with any form of "reliable" focus assistance other than a beep or some form of confirmation that he finds isnt really helpful.

He uses a D700, and so we found a solution for him. A Katzeye screen. It gives him split prism which he is used to from the old MF days.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/item--Canon-550D-600D-650D-700D-T2i-T3i-T4i-T5i-Focusing-Screen--prod_550D.html

Its was a solution that seemed costly at first but because he enjoys manual focus so much, it was worth the expense. This may not be the right solution, but sadly its the only real working solution after you exhaust the diopter adjustments.

Its just the nature of viewfinders on most digital cameras :(

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Sep 23, 2013 14:56:39   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
GinaP wrote:
I am trying to learn my focus more. I want crisp images and am having a hard time achieving this. I shoot with my T31, 50mm. I also am working on natural lighting, and have a problem with eyes, I know to find shade and the close eyes then open, how else can I achieve crisp, eyes? Thanks, Gina


Gina, your camera probably only has one sensitive cross-focus point, that's the center one(I actually don't know your camera). So for best results use the center point, especially if the subject is moving. Since you're talking about eyes, I assume it's people, and people move, so manual focus is almost out of the question.
Also you're using a 50mm. So it's for sure a 1.4 or a 1.8. If you use it wide open, the DoF is very thin. Open it up a little. Check the fotos you are not happy with, something should be in focus, or you may be having other issues. If you use the DPP software that came with the camera, you can check to see exactly where the camera focused. Auto focus is almost always more accurate than manual focus. If you are on Auto Mode, the camera will focus with any point it chooses, and that may not be where you want to focus. To pick your focus point, you can't be on auto.
If you photograph two people on f1.4, 90% chance only one will be in focus, or even only one eye.
Try shooting everything at f8 and see if it's better.
In good light, always use ISO 100-200 for good sharp fotos. If its too dark, don't bump up the ISO, instead use a flash.
Keep your speed appropriate for the amount of movement.
Get close, so you don't need to crop.
Avoid shooting slow, high ISO(400+), cropping and shade.
Gina, there is a lot more, but these are the basics.
Hope it helped. SS

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Sep 23, 2013 15:15:45   #
LLucas Loc: Upstate South Carolina, USA
 
Sharpshooter, that was great advice. Low light is the most challenging thing I struggle with and I read your post 4 times to make sure I completely understand. Thanks for being a patient teacher to all of us newbies. :-)

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Sep 23, 2013 15:30:48   #
GinaP
 
Thanks so much!!

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Sep 23, 2013 16:49:52   #
MagicMark
 
jrb1213 wrote:
Have you adjusted the diopter to you eyes?


Yes, but it doesn't have a -3 diopter setting. My eyes are way off.
:lol:

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Sep 23, 2013 17:39:49   #
St3v3M Loc: 35,000 feet
 
MagicMark wrote:
Yes, but it doesn't have a -3 diopter setting. My eyes are way off.
:lol:

You can buy replacement diopters at different strengths.

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Sep 23, 2013 18:11:01   #
Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga
 
I put in a split image focus screen on my old D70s. I got mine from a focusingscreen.com which was a little cheaperUsed a DK-21M as well (which I've put on my D300). I have since been able to avoid having to use the older replacement screens though ( I did buy one for my D300 but never installed it) Haven't gotten any for the D7100 though. BTW, their screens are custom cut from older OEM manual focus screens.....
Musket wrote:
One of the issues with MF on a lot of entry level cams is that the Viewfinder just isnt made for MF very well. My dad has problems Manual Focusing all teh time with his camera with his poor eyesight and the fact that they dont come with any form of "reliable" focus assistance other than a beep or some form of confirmation that he finds isnt really helpful.

He uses a D700, and so we found a solution for him. A Katzeye screen. It gives him split prism which he is used to from the old MF days.
http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/item--Canon-550D-600D-650D-700D-T2i-T3i-T4i-T5i-Focusing-Screen--prod_550D.html

Its was a solution that seemed costly at first but because he enjoys manual focus so much, it was worth the expense. This may not be the right solution, but sadly its the only real working solution after you exhaust the diopter adjustments.

Its just the nature of viewfinders on most digital cameras :(
One of the issues with MF on a lot of entry level ... (show quote)

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