ncshutterbug

[quote=SueMac]I spent this last winter with old pix albums of my deceased FIL. Some pix back to the 1800's and a lot were in those old photo albums. Could not get them off of the sticky back. So I removed the front film and scanned in the photos as they were (stuck to the sticky paper). Then separated them in Photoshop, made a copy and restored the old photos taking out cracks etc. Lots of work, but I do old photo restorations and it has been fun doing this for our family.

If you can't get them off the sticky back, don't force it, they will rip. Scan them in as is and go from there.
Thanks for the great advice on the photo album. I think that will work on some of them, but, as my aunt had had alzheimer's the whole thing had been wet, possibly left out in rain or something and some are stuck to the front. Anyway, if I can save some I will be eternally grateful!

ncshutterbug

Sorry, I screwed up that reply!
Thanks for the valuable info. I think it will work for some, but, as my aunt had alzheimer's the photo album wasn't well taken care of and may have been left on the porch in the rain, as everything had been wet. Some photos are stuck to the front page as well. Anyway, if I can save some I will be eternally grateful.

SueMac Loc: Box Elder, SD

Good luck! At least the ones I've been working on were kept inside.

You can scan with the front plastic on, but it will make a whole lot more work if you do any restorations. That plastic has more scratches than can be seen until it is scanned in. But...if that is the only way to recover the pix, then at least get them scanned in so they won't be lost.

Some of the pix I did, you can see spider cracks in the emulsion so it wouldn't be long that the pix would have fallen off the paper.

If you need any help, send me a PM at bnsrv@me.com and I can see what I can do.

Sue

ncshutterbug

Thanks a million, Sue. I will definitely give it a try!

Hollyak Loc: E. Texas

on those sticky albums...try running dental floss between the photo and sticky page or use a little "UnDo" solution.

GPappy Loc: Finally decided to plop down, Clover, S.C.

Put the glass with the photo stuck to it in the freezer for an hour or two. I tried it once and it worked for me.
I would also scan it first on a flat bed scanner before trying anything.

RichieC Loc: Adirondacks

This is why you shouldn't display photos in contact with the glass-humidity, etc softens the emulsion and when dry- glues itself to the glass.

This is what matting does for you, creates an air space as well as look attractive. All mat boards are not created equal. The older wood fiber cheap boards often have the cellulose broken down with acid, newer boards use a basic solution to break down the pulp. They buffer them , bit the naturally acidic wood pulp will eventually win out after many years, This is why the white edges turn yellow. This acid is very bad for art and photos longevity.

Use a rag mat board- made of cotton fibers, often as a by product of cotton fabric manufacturing- thus the word "rag". These fibers are not broken down into paper by use of acid. They'll last a couple of hundred years!

Then there is proper mounting- I could go on. This is why framing costs so much... that is if you want to do it right.

The photo paper should not be harmed by clean water or a specialized photo liquid. . Thats how prints were made after all, immersion in a developer, then a fixer, then a clean water rinse. If the print is strong and white-I'd use distilled water and leave it alone for a long time- However, the water may penetrate very slowly, and or uneven. I would not immerse it, rather wet and keep wet a cotton towel left in contacts with it all. Keep it very saturated. Leave it sit for a very long time- a day or more. This will eliminate the print from moving before it is all separated. Let the water do all the work. Then you can hang it or place on a clean towel to dry.

If the print is discolored... this could be because it was in contact with an acidic board- then the original paper itself might be compromised. Be very very careful or the emulsion could separate from the original paper backing. I have an idea of what I would do, but perhaps if this is the case- i'd ask a local museum curator. I think they would be happy to to suggest or even help you.

Ink jet prints I doubt will stick to the inside of glass, but they will lose detail if the humidity which may form on the inside of the glass makes the ink "run"- Thus, Ink jets should be matted as well.

ncshutterbug

Genius!! Thanks Hollyak!

Sunrisepano Loc: West Sub of Chicago

I heard about placing ice on the glass and the photo should drop free of the glass. Similar to placing the entire photo in the freezer, I think.

magicray Loc: Tampa Bay, Florida

I find muriatic acid works the best.

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid. If you know what you are doing, it can accomplish relarkable tasks and would probably be effective here. If you have no experience with acids, this may not be the best time to learn.

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There is one very important (potentially life-saving) rule about using acid:

NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. WHEN DILUTING, ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER!!!
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tramsey Loc: Texas

I am surprised that so many have had the same problem.

Thanks for caring and sharing

jmdusty Loc: greater DaytonOh. area

Back in my old studio days we often did this for customers. The bulk of those cases were 8x10 glossies stuck to the glass. We took the glass out of the frame and put it face down in a pirex backing dish with about 2"s of warm water in it and in just a matter of about an hour or so could get the photo off the glass. We would then re-gloss them on our drum drier.

cfusco3

BEFORE you do anything. Take a bunch of pictures of it. Worse case you can work with those pictures should disaster happen.

Coker Loc: Havana, IL

FIRST - Take a very close up photo of the image, in case you do destroy it. I would try putting it in the freezer and see if the temperature variation will release the image from the glass.