........ ☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠ There is one very important (potentially life-saving) rule about using acid:
NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. WHEN DILUTING, ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER!!! ☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠☠
........ br b ☠☠☠&a... (show quote)
and slowly with adequate stirring so that a large volume of acid isn't allowed to come into contact with a small volume of water. Phil :idea:
......Ink jet prints I doubt will stick to the inside of glass, but they will lose detail if the humidity which may form on the inside of the glass makes the ink "run"- Thus, Ink jets should be matted as well.
Inks in ink jet prrinters are water soluble (I don't know about the dedicated photo ink jets though) I print a load of programs and using water based hi-lighter pens the ink just bleeds into the hi-lighting. Phil :idea:
ST3v3M hit on the best solution in his first URL. Immerse the glass and photo in a clean sink in a 68℉ PhotoFlo solution. Assuming 2½ gallons of water, add no more than 2 ounces of PhotoFlo and mix thoroughly before immersion. Check periodically and dry the print with a clean lint free cloth by blotting lightly and air drying. Do NOT use a hair dryer; the print will curl. If it curls, soak again and dry between two sheets of photo blotting paper with 5-10 lbs of weight on top for 24 hours. When dry and if undamaged, scan the photo so it won't be lost forever. Then reframe it with a double mat (to keep the print away from the glass), using acid free matting and photographic (non-glare, anti-UV) glass.
ST3v3M hit on the best solution in his first URL. ... (show quote)
When we made prints and enlargements in the darkroom, the wet sheets were placed emulsion side down on a metal sheet and pressed down with a roller. When dry, they were easily removed and had a glossy finish.
When we made prints and enlargements in the darkroom, the wet sheets were placed emulsion side down on a metal sheet and pressed down with a roller. When dry, they were easily removed and had a glossy finish.
Actually, if my abridged memory serves me correctly, when using this method, the dry print popped free of the metal.
Thanks a lot. Who would've thought about soaking it in water? I would think that the colors would run. But she'll try it. I'll let you know.
If it is a photo nothing will run, if it is an inkjet print everything may run. Look for Kodak, Fuji or other watermarks on the back to id photo paper.