Christmas decorations
Dec 8, 2011 08:07:43 #
Dec 8, 2011 08:11:47 #
cathie wrote:
I have got to see what images you are making from sale flyers
Bet Gizzy is doing HDR with them and doesn't want anyone to know.
Dec 8, 2011 08:54:46 #
artboy
Loc: Ocala, FL
for some interesting shots, use a zoom lens and slowly zoom in or out during the exposure (tripod needed).
Dec 8, 2011 09:09:23 #
Hey everyone! Just a quick note to add. Don't forget to set white balance...these days you have different elements in some of those Christmas lights (incandescent VS. LED).
Dec 8, 2011 10:08:52 #
Rather NOT use a tripod....? Hmmmmm.... Are you a photographer? My camera is almost always on my tripod. And you never see my camera without it's tripod.
They're like salt and pepper. They work well alone, but when you put them together, THAT's when the magic happens.....
Just my view.
They're like salt and pepper. They work well alone, but when you put them together, THAT's when the magic happens.....
Just my view.
Dec 8, 2011 11:03:08 #
SpiffyPhoto wrote:
quote=Weidoh Can anyone give me some advise on ta... (show quote)
Let me offer a thought...it is true thinking to use a higher ISO, but try it say 400 use long exposures one or more seconds. as this streaks the images. If you increase ISO you shorten the exposure time reducing streaks and locking down the image too soon. Larry
Dec 8, 2011 11:05:32 #
Hi,
Well, it seems my first try didn't post so I'll try again. If you see another it just want by way of the moon.
Anyhow I wanted to suggest checking if your camera has settings to use. I have a "night city" setting and a "fireworks" setting. So far I have used the former with some success.
It is what leads to high ISOs...something I would not otherwise have tried and contrary to what the "use manual" crowd was advising. The reason is to get the other stuff in the image.
Someone on UHH showed me that my Nikon also has an in-camera cross hatch filter that you can use to make a copy with light arrows. Kind of cool. Example attached.
Regards,
Larry Leach
Well, it seems my first try didn't post so I'll try again. If you see another it just want by way of the moon.
Anyhow I wanted to suggest checking if your camera has settings to use. I have a "night city" setting and a "fireworks" setting. So far I have used the former with some success.
It is what leads to high ISOs...something I would not otherwise have tried and contrary to what the "use manual" crowd was advising. The reason is to get the other stuff in the image.
Someone on UHH showed me that my Nikon also has an in-camera cross hatch filter that you can use to make a copy with light arrows. Kind of cool. Example attached.
Regards,
Larry Leach
The Lookout (home)
Dec 8, 2011 11:07:37 #
I recently photographed the holiday lighting of my house and shrubs. The main problem in making proper settings is not to overexpose the point sources of lights and not to underexpose the house and shrubs. I took my picturea on Dec 1st between 4:15 and 4:45 when there was just enough ambient light for the house and shrubs. The final setup was as follows:
camera, tripod mounted with remote shutter release, was set on manual aperture - f5.6 - to get sufficient depth of field with a lens focal length of 15 mm; a shutter set on 1/15th and manual focus; ISO at 400 completed the input setups. White balance was left on automatic, because neither the tungsten nor overcast settings would cover the range of color temperatures. Picture style and lighting optimizer were left on "standard."(Canon 60D) The results were near satisfactory, requiring only a slight amount of post processing to achieve what I thought closely matched what I had observed. I hope this helps. Geo.K.
camera, tripod mounted with remote shutter release, was set on manual aperture - f5.6 - to get sufficient depth of field with a lens focal length of 15 mm; a shutter set on 1/15th and manual focus; ISO at 400 completed the input setups. White balance was left on automatic, because neither the tungsten nor overcast settings would cover the range of color temperatures. Picture style and lighting optimizer were left on "standard."(Canon 60D) The results were near satisfactory, requiring only a slight amount of post processing to achieve what I thought closely matched what I had observed. I hope this helps. Geo.K.
Dec 8, 2011 11:14:39 #
PAToGraphy wrote:
Bet Gizzy is doing HDR with them and doesn't want anyone to know.
cathie wrote:
I have got to see what images you are making from sale flyers
Bet Gizzy is doing HDR with them and doesn't want anyone to know.
Now, Pat, you be nice to poor ol' Gizzy. Christmas is just around the corner, you know, and I do have considerable influence with Santa. Me & Santa we went to the same one-room school, and fought over the same girl, and shared peanut butter & pickle sandwiches. Santa was sneaky, though, because he always seemed to know which end of the sandwich had the pickle in it, and would chomp a big byte out of that end.
Dec 8, 2011 11:44:51 #
You have a lot of responses here but one thing that was not mentioned is you should set your WB (white balance) to Tungsten.
Weidoh wrote:
Can anyone give me some advise on taking Christmas light pictures at night ? I would rather not use atrypod if I can help it, I'm using a Olympus sp-510uz
Thank you and happy holidays Joe
Thank you and happy holidays Joe
Dec 8, 2011 11:48:10 #
gizzy.whicker wrote:
quote=PAToGraphy quote=cathie I have got to see ... (show quote)
AHA! - the reason for Santa's huge belly - he must have been "with child" if he was eating peanut butter AND Pickle sandwiches! Did he prefer dill or bread and butter pickles? I prefer fried dills myself - but not in my PB sandwiches.
Dec 8, 2011 11:49:35 #
I've been reading about this subject and it seems that many experts say to shoot AFTER sunset when the sky
is a nice blue instead of later when there's no light in
the sky. Seems like one would have to do some fast
shooting as this time frame doesn't last long.
Gordon
is a nice blue instead of later when there's no light in
the sky. Seems like one would have to do some fast
shooting as this time frame doesn't last long.
Gordon
Dec 8, 2011 12:05:09 #
You have about an hour...from about 1/2 hour before sunset to 1/2 hour past it.
Gordon wrote:
I've been reading about this subject and it seems that many experts say to shoot AFTER sunset when the sky
is a nice blue instead of later when there's no light in
the sky. Seems like one would have to do some fast
shooting as this time frame doesn't last long.
Gordon
is a nice blue instead of later when there's no light in
the sky. Seems like one would have to do some fast
shooting as this time frame doesn't last long.
Gordon
Dec 8, 2011 12:05:39 #
Or shoot RAW.
TaraMar wrote:
You have a lot of responses here but one thing that was not mentioned is you should set your WB (white balance) to Tungsten.
Weidoh wrote:
Can anyone give me some advise on taking Christmas light pictures at night ? I would rather not use atrypod if I can help it, I'm using a Olympus sp-510uz
Thank you and happy holidays Joe
Thank you and happy holidays Joe
Dec 8, 2011 12:40:54 #
Don't want to use a tripod ? Use a stepladder. Or, lean against a tree. YOU WILL NEED SOMETHING. Or you can get "pretty good" pix by using a slow shutter speed and a small aperature. Or if you are using a film camera, use ultra high speed film. Then plant your feet securely, count to three, hold your breath and GENTLY squeeze or push the button.
If you are shooting with a digital, set it for shutter priortity and let the genie do the rest.
ALYN
If you are shooting with a digital, set it for shutter priortity and let the genie do the rest.
ALYN
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