ab7rn Loc: Portland, Oregon

Years ago, in my film days I used D76 diluted 1:1 with Tri-x, Panatomic-x and Adox KB14 with 2 1/4 and 4x5 film and got very good results. The time and temperature were closely monitored.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

Oh the good ol' days when I developed my own B&W film! I don't miss 'em at all!

FilmFanatic Loc: Waikato, New Zealand

I have developed five rolls this week. I would definitely miss it!

alycat Loc: Canton OH

Over exposure, over development causes dense b&w negatives. oddly the reverse is true with color negs.

FilmFanatic Loc: Waikato, New Zealand

What he said

alycat Loc: Canton OH

I didn't express my self very well. Over exposure, over development causes dense b&w negs, and more grain than there would be with normal development and exposure. the reverse is true with color negs. Too many beers tonight.

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

I would try Ilford Perceptol as a developer. Also, be very careful of all water temps; I suggest a thermostatically controled mixer manifold.

Pablo8 Loc: Nottingham UK.

I think you mean colour transparancy film, not negative film.

FilmFanatic Loc: Waikato, New Zealand

I regularly shoot color neg several stops over and no grain to be seen. i guarantee you he is telling the truth

alycat Loc: Canton OH

No, I mean negative film. They used to recomend slight over exopsure with color negative film

frangeo Loc: Texas

I used to bulk roll Kodak Tmax 400. The tech read about the film seemed to be a god sent. However, I found the film to be short of all the promises. I shot and processed over 60 rolls in test to get the developing and printing right but it was a waste of time. Then I discovered the Kodak white papers were WRONG! A fellow pro gave me a correction factor for developing. I proceed to create my own time/temp charts for 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 ISO for my bulk roll 400 ISO Tmax film. I got creamy smooth images in the studio at 100 and didn’t see grain until I went to 3200. It was fantastic. I’m not downing Illford. I loved their products. Illford polycontrast filters and paper. I did my best work with this combo. It takes a delicate balance of exposure, time and temperature to get the results you are looking for. I’d share my charts with you but they are buried in storage someplace. ( I gave up film over 25 years ago ) Watch your processing carefully and learn to develop your own set of standards. It may take time but its worth it in the long run. I still love film and miss its characteristics. ( but I won’t go back for anything )

Manny Jay Loc: Colorado

Reticulation? That went out long time ago. Newer films don't reticulate.

PhotoArtsLA Loc: Boynton Beach

Ilford's high speed black and white films are not the finest grain high speed films. Even when developing in a fine grain developer, the grain might go as bit "creamy" but will still be evident.

That said, grain is not necessarily an evil. You can be tack sharp with grain or not.

In processing, of course, you must be temperature stable across the process including the wash water - all at the same temp, which should hover between 68-72 degrees. In developing millions of frames in the olde days, this temp range proved best. Using a water jacket is recommended as well, not necessarily a recirculating one, just. A tub with temperature correct water in which all your chemistries AND developing tank reside.

Further, your agitation cycle can be an issue. Don't over-agitate. Finally, the overall length of the wet phase of the process should be kept to a minimum with hypo-killers like Permawash to shorten the wash. Temperature controlling the wash water to the process temp is important.

Well, I am on a plane, so I must keep it short.