Grainy B&W film
Resently I have gotten really into black and white film photography- but with it some of my rolls are very grainy. I can not figure it out! At first I thought it was just the enlarger, maybe I was forceing too much light thur - makeing it grainy. But i discovered it is just happening to sertain rolls! Any ideas on why that happens and how to avoid/ fix that?
What film? How old? How was it stored? Are you developing yourself?
Way too many variable to make any good answers with the info you have posted on here.
Ilford it's brand spankin new! I kept it in the fridge till I put it in the camera, yes I develop it my self- same dark room that produces grainy and non grainy film. The same canister is used to develop every time as well so it wouldn't be a leak in that- would old d76 or stop bath create that? I know the fix is still good.
Then I could only guess its your developer. B&W is usually pretty forgiving on developer times, but if your developer is old, as you alude, that could account for some of the issue you are having. Are you mixing it with distilled water?
I know photographers who picked their film based on the graininess of it. Are you used to film grain, and could it be you''re just used to digital w/o it? Post an example or two.
Which Ilford film? Incorrect developer temperature can cause grain. Wash water temp if variable or too cold can reticulate the emulsion. As MT Shooter said - too many variables to give a definitive answer.
D76 is not a fine grain developer. Look in the Freestyle catolog for a fine grain developer. Are you re-using your developer? You can but unless you do a lot of film I would not. I always had stock D76 and then used one part stock to one part water. Is it too hot? Thhis will cause grain. Are you using the same speed of film? Higher ASA will give you more grain. Just my thoughts - Dave
Five causes or remedies come to the top of my mind:
The Film: Higher ASA (=ISO) usually means grainier film
Developer - try Microdol X. Fresh Microdol X
Temperatures - when developing, be sure to control to the recommended temps of developer and wash water; too hot or too cold will cause reticulation
Degree of Enlarging - the bigger the enlargement, the more apparent the grain.
And - to be facetious - sharpness of enlargement - if you're a little bit soft, the grain will be ameliorated...
These factors interrelate; they all contribute to the final result. Sort of synergy I suppose
Just an afterthought - If you want to get the sharpest pictures focus on the grain. I use a grain magnifier that was made just to do this. - Dave
Thanks everyone I will test all the new idea out on this roll- I don't reuse d76 but if that's not what I should be useing then ill have to run and get something different. I use ilford 400 so the Iso isn't that large and shouldn't cause grain. It may have been the temp- that hose is a little shakie. Thank you for all your input!
The film may be your problem. Kodak Tri X was 400 ASA/ISO tended to be a grainy for less grain it was Plus X 100 Asa and for super fine grain Panotomic with a film speed of a whole 32. So it may be you 400 film. Over developing or to hot of developer also caused grain. I just do 4X5 sheet film now so grain is not a problem. FYI the grain is caused by the silver clumping together. _ Dave
Your exposure, developing time, temperature and many other things can cause grain. How do the negs look? If you are not getting a consistent density then I'd be checking your exposure and developing, if you are consistent you should get consistent negs
Another thought. Are the grainy negatives denser than the others? If they are the are probable overdeveloped by using too long of time or too hot of water. This the grainhis would cause the grain. - Dave
mtnredhed
Loc: The part of NorCal that doesn't move
As others have said, D76 is not your friend for ASA 400 unless you're looking for grain. Microdol is much finer, but I seem to remember you had to de-rate the film speed. Shorter developer times tend to push larger grain development.
Photographer's Formulary had a couple I liked. Their Divided D76 was nice for medium and large format. For 35mm, you might want to check out their MCM100. I also liked dilute HC-110 if they still sell it. The trick there is to double the "B" dilution and the soak time (as a starting point)
Big grain is usually a result of overactive development. Higher temps, shorter times/higher concentrations and over-agitation.
B&W film has flexibility, so you can alter your time based on temperature, but developer, stop bath and fixer need to be the same temperature.
I used HC-110 dilution B. with minimal agitation, one inversion per minute, got beautiful negatives with Tri-X.
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