rvhowdy

I love the 4th and 6th shots. You have a good eye for photography. Keep shooting and enjoy, my friend.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

If you controlled the K-1000 you will do well with digital film. Many times I have said that the Digital Camera world missed the boat... they copied the camera I sought after with passion and learned quickly to hate.. the Minolta i7000 that thought it knew more about photography than I did. The camera I had lived with was much like the K-1000 which I eventually had. With the K-1000 you controlled every thing with your finger tips as your eye/mind told them.

Follow the KIS, keep your photography simple... do not fall into the Cannon/Nikon $$$ trap. The world of Super-Zooms opens many doors and the camera is in you pocket or on your belt 24/7. The manual settings are the same, the film can be changed from one ASA [ISO] to another. But KIS. Composition that the K-1000 did is what you will command your digital will do.

Brush up on composition... composition at 10 mpix beats the poorly composed or missed in the closet 30# bag 40 mpix expensive cameras any day... here is a complete works for free by art and psychology department people..... as humans the two are linked and expressed in a common language of our photography. As with music Albinoni Adagio in G Minor will make all cry and be excited by Wagners Ride of the Valkyries will excite us so the same with universal language of our vision.

Cry with me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMbvcp480Y4
Be excited with me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTS-PMXyE4Q
learn the language of composition: http://truecenterpublishing.com/photopsy/article_index.htm

Photocraig

My son, nick named Dr. Distructo, had only failed to break 3 things before he turned 20; a Toyota truck, a Bridgestone Mt. Bike and a Pentax K1000. I borrowed it for my Photo 1 class before I upgraded to a Nikon FM2. He sold or gave it to another student and I bet it is still exposing film to this day.

For film, a camera is a light tight box capable of advancing film and mounting lenses, In an SLR, it also has a curtain shutter. They wear out and/or tear at some point but are easy to replace. It is a reliable workhorse and for an all manual camera with a decent meter you can't go wrong.

My guess is that your orange dots resulted from using the "normal" 50mm lens. Spend some time with it and you can learn a lot. See if your local Community College or Adult ed. has a film photography class. It is a great way to learn the basics with supervision of a teacher. My photo 1 teacher was a good Stock Photographer I and we all learned a ton.

joelcandids

Don't feel that way. Shoot lots of frames with what you have. I've seen some really awesome photos shot on a cell phone. Gear definitely helps but being able to see the shot and expose it correctly is what makes for a great picture. Shoot lots of frames and learn from every one. Joel Sartore, great National Geographic photographer said, if you think you've taken the perfect shot you might as well quit...meaning none of ever will,take the perfect shot.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

Welcome to UHHs. I haven't seen all the other answers, but based on what you have stated, you probably used too short a lense. Anything less than a 200mm lense is going to be inadequate to shoot an eclipse of the sun itself. A wide angle lense will catch the over all shadow and surrounding scene. I personally feel any lense less than 400mm is somewhat inadequate to capture an eclipse.

As far as the quality of the Pentax K1000, it is a workhorse of a basic camera. I also would not sell it unless for parts (because it was totally broken). With the proper filters, the proper lenses, and more practice, you can catch one of the next four eclipses: 07/02/2019 and 12/14/2020 in South America, 12/04/2021 in Antarctica, and 04/08/2024 from Mexico through Texas to New England. Two more that are not that far away are 08/12/2026 (Greenland, Iceland, and Spain) and 08/03/2027 (the whole northern edge of Africa and Saudi Arabia).

Belplasca Loc: Luton, UK

This is an old thread, but I suspect that - with another eclipse coming up soon - it may be turning up in online searches!

I'm planning to be photographing the next eclipse in Indianapolis or thereabouts, depending on the weather, and I'll be using my Nikon P510 on full zoom (1000mm equivalent) with a filter made from Baader Astrosolar Safety Film for the partial stages... This length of zoom will give me a solar image of something like a quarter of the frame width, so just over 1000 pixels. More with the corona... I'm not sure how far the sun will appear to move across the frame during the eclipse, but I'll obviously have the camera on a tripod with a pan/tilt head of some descriprion...

This isn't my first eclipse, so I have a bit of practice! And I'm aware that photographing the moon is just like any other sunlit landscape - 1/ISO @ f16 :-)

But, what catches out the inexperienced or unwary is that camera generally take a significant part of the scene and expose to render it to an average "18% grey". Not good if you have a small bright dot in a black sky... I'll be prepared to use manual exposure and play around just before the moon starts to eclipse the sun...

Bob

Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Don’t shoot yourself in the foot.
We all started it a wallet full of cash and not enough knowledge about photography. After a time, that was reversed.

This is a time honored skill and test of our abilities.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

This is one of the limitations of the UHH search. When you initiate a UHH search it only searches thread titles, limiting the utility. Also, the page that comes up when you click on 'search' at the top menu is limited. There is a choice of 'advanced options', and if you choose that it gives you the choice to consider recent topics only. By default that is unchecked. It would probably be very helpful if the default were checked. At any rate, if you ever use a UHH search, go immediately to 'advanced options'. It may help avoid zombie threads.

Belplasca Loc: Luton, UK

Well, I think infrequent, but similar, events are a special case where old threads can still be valuable...

Especially for people like me that will happily use "jurassic" equpment rather than spend ten times as much for current equipment...

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

I don't know who these new posters think they are talking to. This is the only post the OP ever started, and he left in 2018. There have been numerous recent discussions about shooting the eclipse, so I can't see the need to drag up one from 7 years ago.

Belplasca Loc: Luton, UK

Do those other threads mention the Nikon P510 at all?

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

New posters are generally speaking to the eclipse topic since it’s current

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

so....you are suggesting we need a different thread specific to each available camera body???

techniques and settings are common to all.

Belplasca Loc: Luton, UK

Oh? ALL bridge cameras have 1000mm equivalent lenses? I didn't know that...

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

If you have questions about a specific camera, just start a new topic about it rather than drag up an old one.