When you learn the zone system your spot meter will allow you make good use of it. With roll film you will not have quite as much control over the image unless you have at least three backs for your Hasselblad so that you will have a roll to push process, one to pull process, and one to process normally (not really practical at this point) but you will be able to make sure you don't wash out your highlights OR completely lose the shadows OR appropriately place the mid tones (surprisingly, skin tones, regardless of race, expose correctly at or very near zone VI). I apply it in that context with my own work and am pleased with the results. You have a great camera to work with. Take your time and apply concepts as you learn and understand them. Above all, have fun.

Many years ago I had the great experience of attending an Ansel Adams workshop. I studied all his books and over the years, applied much of the Zone Syste to my commercial photography.

Congratulations on your Hasselblad purchase- I used the entire system for decades- it is a fine precision instrument.

If you have no basic knowledge of film photography you will be operating at a disadvantage as you are attempting to tackle the Zone System. Before venturing into that system, you should have a basic foundation in film process and printing techniques. If you start with an easily and currently obtainable black-and-white roll film such as (for example) Kodak Tri-X, there's a recommended, IOS rating (400), and a prescribed processing procedure as to chemistry, time, temperature, etc. The Zons system entails various changes in the standardized exposure/processig relationship dependg on the effect you are attempting to achieve in any given situation. Greyscale and gradations are another important component,

The system was originally designed to be used with SHEET film or CUT film where each sheet of film could be individually exposed and processed whereas with 120-roll film, all 12 exposures would need to be exposed and processed in the same manner.

Certin aspects of the so-called exposure triangle still apply but it is not mentioned in the original literature because the system calls for testing and establishing your own film sensitivity standards (ISO) for your gear and shootg style. The film process requires particular techniques such as pre-soaking, and extremely careful temperature control. Very basically, the is a lot of overexposure and underdevelopment to decrease contrast and underexposure and overdevelopment to increase contrast.

Makig prints on an analog enlarger is in itself an art form. There are papers of various contrast and total charistics, various developers, stop baths, fixers, hypo eliminators, and careful washing and drying procedures.

Certain Zone System principles can be applied to digital photography but the original system is film/analog, chemistry-based.

An analogy- You purchased a Hasselblad- it is like a beginning piano student purchasing a Steinway Grand Piano. The problem is, that the student can not sit down and play Rachmaninoff's Piano Concerti N0. 3 without first learning the scales, techniques, and lots of practice.

Alright! It ain't rocket science or nuclear physics- but it takes some doing!

Well first, thanks for responding and the congratulations. I will say that this Hassleblad is one fine piece of equipment.....too beautiful to use, not one scratch or blemish. My original plans were never to develop the film but possibly scan the negatives. So, I began studying film photography and I even began reading Ansel Adams "The Negative" hoping to gather even more information. Only to realize that Ansel Adams success actually came from within his darkroom. So, without any disappointment, I will continue to read "The Negative" because I am fascinated with what that man did in his time with the equipment that was at his disposal. I won't be developing film and I'm still contemplating scanning negatives. I have five of Nikon's flagship DSLRs which will continue to be my go-to cameras; however, I will shoot with my Hasselblad when I'm not admiring it on the camera shelf and totally enjoy just the feel of it in my hands.

Well first, thanks for responding and the congratulations. I will say that this Hassleblad is one fine piece of equipment.....too beautiful to use, not one scratch or blemish. My original plans were never to develop the film but possibly scan the negatives. So, I began studying film photography and I even began reading Ansel Adams "The Negative" hoping to gather even more information. Only to realize that Ansel Adams success actually came from within his darkroom. So, without any disappointment, I will continue to read "The Negative" because I am fascinated with what that man did in his time with the equipment that was at his disposal. I won't be developing film and I'm still contemplating scanning negatives. I have five of Nikon's flagship DSLRs which will continue to be my go-to cameras; however, I will shoot with my Hasselblad when I'm not admiring it on the camera shelf and totally enjoy just the feel of it in my hands.

Well first, thanks for responding and the congratulations. I will say that this Hassleblad is one fine piece of equipment.....too beautiful to use, not one scratch or blemish. My original plans were never to develop the film but possibly scan the negatives. So, I began studying film photography and I even began reading Ansel Adams "The Negative" hoping to gather even more information. Only to realize that Ansel Adams success actually came from within his darkroom. So, without any disappointment, I will continue to read "The Negative" because I am fascinated with what that man did in his time with the equipment that was at his disposal. I won't be developing film and I'm still contemplating scanning negatives. I have five of Nikon's flagship DSLRs which will continue to be my go-to cameras; however, I will shoot with my Hasselblad when I'm not admiring it on the camera shelf and totally enjoy just the feel of it in my hands.

I’ll just add that developing film is SOOO easy. All you need is a roll film tank, a changing bag or a dark room to load it, a thermometer, some method to time it (your phone will do), 3 or 4 chemicals you can order on line and some film clips. You can probably get everything for about $30 and develop a roll (or more at the same time) in just a few minutes. Then you can scan at your leisure AND use the zone system to the fullest. B&W is so easy - I’ve done it in kitchens, bathrooms and even a closet when I was 12.