Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

YES get a rubber collapsable hood then it won't be in the way as you turn it.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

As mentioned, you could modify your present hood by drilling a hole in the right place and using a Dremel tool with a rotary file to enlarge the hole as needed to allow your finger to engage the rim of the polarizer - BUT, this can only work IF the hood bayonets onto the lens.
Also, as mentioned you could thread a hood into the polarizer and just turn the filter -BUT, this will only work with a threaded polarizer and ROUND hood .....
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If your concern is simply darkening a blue sky you dont need to see/preview the effect. Just add a guide mark to the rim and point the mark toward the sun (wherever it is, in the real environment).

For reducing or enhancing reflections on a lake or pond, set the marker to either straight up or 90 degr to the side.

Acoarst for all other reflection control you still need to remove the hood. If using a zoom lens NOT at its wide end then the hood doesnt really matter anywho.

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For a wide lens this may require a significant step-up and much larger hood.

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Good for longish, normal, and some mildly wide lenses. Acoarst since a typical rubber hood is unlikely to be a close match for the lens, its simpler to not use any hood at all.

I use hoods on all my lenses. In the rare instance of using a PL I simply remove the hood. Making my life pointlessly difficult is definitely not my style. YMMV.

terryMc Loc: Arizona's White Mountains

I was shooting cars. I have to look through the viewfinder to see what I'm photographing and to watch until the reflection disappears. My hand caused a shadow that made it hard to impossible to see the reflection.

I know how polarizers work, and I don't use them to darken skies anymore, I use Photoshop for that. What I don't know is what "acoarst" is.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

So you have run into the problem that we all run into. And it has nothing to do with whether one is "bright" or not. And some brands have made a solution for this in their larger and longer lens shades. More on that later.

From the normal shooting position, the polarizer goes on the front of the lens in a counter clockwise direction. For my technique, it is important to remember the direction of rotation of mounting. Once the polarizer is on the lens, I will put just my middle finger over the lens shade's edge and catch just the edge of the polarizer. I then use my finger to rotate the polarizer in a counter clockwise direction. This way you see the filter's effect with the camera in the shooting position you want. If you miss that point, you continue rotating the filter in the counter clockwise direction until you get the effect you want again. The reason I always do the gross setting in the counter clockwise direction is every once in a while the polarizer will not be mounted tight enough and the filter will start to loosen. Minor changes can be done in the clockwise direction. But my suggestion is to just rotate the filter ~180° in the counter clockwise direction and reset the filter to the proper setting. Otherwise one risks loosening and losing the filter due to drop damage.

Some brands, that have a big, long lens hood, actually put a small slide opening so one can put their finger through without having to try and reach in from the front of the lens shade (I actually owned one in the past). You can check and see if your brand makes a lens shade with a polarizer adjustment window built into it for the lens you have.

If you are careful enough about keeping the finger as close as possible to the surface of the lens shade, finger prints on the filter tend to not be a problem.

jcboy3

I use Xume magnetic filter mounts with my CPL filters. Especially with mirrorless cameras, I find it hard to assess the effect. So I remove the filter, rotate it until I get what I want, and then put it back on.

My wider lenses have shallow lens hoods, and those can be adjusted while mounted.

Otherwise, remove the lens hood, adjust, and replace the lens hood. You can skip the lens hood if the sun doesn't hit the filter, but if the sun does it's going to flare badly.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

I find that the filters with multi-coating and the newer nano finishes (and more cost due to that) tend to reduce flare to almost nothing. I have used filters with a single or even 2 or 3 coating finishes and they will almost absolutely flare (a waste of money in my opinion). This is why I always suggest one buy the filter that is the thinnest and flattest glass, the most multi-coatings (8 or more), and best nano finish. They also provide the best protection for fingerprints. I know some people cannot afford the cost. But if they can, they will not regret the extra money spent.

Blueduck Loc: Maryland

You can use a finger cot or one of the covers people use when counting money. They are blue silicon or rubber and have little nubs on them for a no slip effect . I use one and they don't leave a mark on the filter.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Longshadow wrote: 'Simplest thing I found was just to remove the hood, adjust the filter, replace the hood..."

I adjust the polarizer WITHOUT the filter and then I fit the filter to the lens when satisfied with my adjustment.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Minolta and now Sony supplies a small window on the side of some of their hoods that once slide open you can rotate the CP filter or variable ND filter using your finger.
But when using my warming filter/enhancing and CP filter combo for fall leaves, I leave the lens hood off on my Sony 24-105 mm lens.
I find most of the time I leave the lens hood off while using any enhancing type filters. It is just plain easier.
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

Aldla Loc: Central NJ

Try using an old fashioned wood pencil with a rubber eraser to turn filter and not blocking view with fingers

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Sorry, not following.
The reference to "filter" in my statement is the "CPL filter".