This is very much a "save as raw, process later community." My answer differs. I have maybe two or three times seen an image that was conceived and shot in color, then desaturated, that was worth a prolonged or second look. The things that make a good black and white image are not the same things that make a good color image. Now of course, if you just need a quick image to add to a b&w newsletter or instruction sheet, that's a different story, but if you are wanting to create an artistic B&W photograph, it really needs to be created that way, exposed that way, and saved that way. And you need to be able to either preview it (if you have that capability) or review it as a B&W image. The only way I know to do that is to capture and save it as B&W. If you just must have a color version, then save a raw version alongside your raw version. If these JPEGs are properly exposed, and if they are saved as Fine (or Fine*)/Large files, there will be plenty to adjust later. Again, if you find this offensive, then save a raw version. But having that B&W JPEG is still invaluable if you are really thinking and working in black & white.

This is how I do it. Now...I am not you, and you are not me. I'll most likely never know what you decide to do. It will not matter to me, and it will not hurt my feelings. (Check out my signature line below.) But I do think that you deserve to see more than just a single answer to your question.

By the way, back when I was taking classes and doing darkroom work, we would never have printed b&w from color negatives. It just wouldn't have worked. The variable contrast paper we used was blind to almost half the colors in the negative film. That's why we could have relatively bright safelights in the printing room. And that paper required us to use filters in the enlarger on a Yellow<==>Pink/Rose scale to control the contrast i our prints. (It actually would have worked, just with incredibly weird results. And only white skies.)

This is very much a "save as raw, process later community." My answer differs. I have maybe two or three times seen an image that was conceived and shot in color, then desaturated, that was worth a prolonged or second look. The things that make a good black and white image are not the same things that make a good color image. Now of course, if you just need a quick image to add to a b&w newsletter or instruction sheet, that's a different story, but if you are wanting to create an artistic B&W photograph, it really needs to be created that way, exposed that way, and saved that way. And you need to be able to either preview it (if you have that capability) or review it as a B&W image. The only way I know to do that is to capture and save it as B&W. If you just must have a color version, then save a raw version alongside your b&w JPEG. If these JPEGs are properly exposed, and if they are saved as Fine (or Fine*)/Large files, there will be plenty to adjust later. Again, if you find this offensive, then save a raw version. But having that B&W JPEG is still invaluable if you are really thinking and working in black & white.

This is how I do it. Now...I am not you, and you are not me. I'll most likely never know what you decide to do. It will not matter to me, and it will not hurt my feelings. (Check out my signature line below.) But I do think that you deserve to see more than just a single answer to your question.

By the way, back when I was taking classes and doing darkroom work, we would never have printed b&w from color negatives. It just wouldn't have worked. The variable contrast paper we used was blind to almost half the colors in the negative film. That's why we could have relatively bright safelights in the printing room. And that paper required us to use filters in the enlarger on a Yellow<==>Pink/Rose scale to control the contrast i our prints. (It actually would have worked, just with incredibly weird results. And only white skies.)

It is always to start with a RAW file. You have much better control over the final result. RAW files always contain color information. You can, for instance, try different color filters in Post. I only use jpeg for utilitarian photos. You can always shoot shoot Raw + jpeg.

My Olympus PenF can be used simulate Orthochromatic film by applying a cyan filter (removes or reduces the red channel) If I shoot RAW + jpeg I can view the result in the viewfinder and the jpeg and still have the RAW file to make final adjustments. It is easiest to use OM workspace to start in my case. BTW few cameras have the ability to apply a Cyan filter in camera.