rcl285

It all has to do with the with the separation of the light source and the viewer. As a young graduate engineer, I remembered looking out the plane window at the shadow of the plane on the ground as we landed. It was always surrounded by a bright area. My initial thought was that the plane was somehow diffracting the light, till I realizes that in that area there were no shadows visible because I was in line with the sun.

Dick L

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

The Stroboframe 350 looks like a good choice. I am not personally familiar with their products, but they have been around for a long time. I do not want to get involved in any sort of tussle with Bill, but if you are interested in going this route, I still suggest at least comparing with the Custom Brackets choices. They are a little more expensive, but they offer a couple of refinements that I don't see on the Stroboframes. The first is that they include a couple of design elements that allow your camera and flash to sit upright on a table or other surface. I've found that helpful several times over the years. The second is that they offer at least one model (CB Folding SA) that offers a handle on the left side rather than the right. If I were buying again, I'd consider this pretty seriously. Here is a link to the page with the most appropriate flash brackets:

https://www.custombrackets.com/collections/cb-series-brackets

Their prices are a little higher than Stroboframe, but I've been really happy with mine for a long time. I'm sorry that they appear to have discontinued making that particular model. Beware of the CB Digital Models. They do not appear to be hinged to allow folding for portrait shadow. correction.

One trick with any flash bracket is that the good ones come with some small pieces that screw onto the bottom frame to hold your camera straight. Double check that there is enough adustability to work properly with your camera, especially if it is a large form-factor camera or if you use a battery grip.

You have recevied a number of suggestions to simply have your subjects step away from the wall. That will always work. But it will also always result in a dark background. You have to decide if that is a constraint you can live with.

I do not work for or sell for Custom Brackets. I don't own stock, and I don't have any money lent to them. But I do feel that their products are very good.

Amadeus Loc: New York

You people have been so helpful. I really didn’t want to go with a bracket bc of weight snd size and it’s not often that I do this type of shooting. But I just may do it to solve the problem. The Strobosphere 350 ($30 on Amazon) and the inexpensive CB Digital - T ($25) would seem like all I need. Plus a cable of course. Amazon even has one from a place called xit that seems similar to both for 14 bucks on sale from 30.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

It should be possible to fix a piece of white card, or perhaps an envelope, angled in front of the flash to direct it up down or sideways. This temporary measure has worked surprisingly well for me on occasion. I use a Meike flash.

Amadeus Loc: New York

[quote=Delderby]It should be possible to fix a piece of white card, or perhaps an envelope, angled in front of the flash to direct it up down or sideways. This temporary measure has worked surprisingly well for me on occasion. I use a Meike flash. [/quo
The Godox I have has a white card that you can pull out from the top part of the flash. I didn't think that would be help but I'll try it.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Get a bracket that keeps the flash centered over camera, off camera flash bracket also helps with red eye.

Vello Speedy Camera Rotating Flash Bracket https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/743039-REG/Vello_CB_200_Speedy_Camera_Bracket.html

Bounce the flash of there is a white ceiling,

Bring the subject farther. away from the background.

Dalek Loc: Detroit, Miami, Goffstown

Your models are stunning...

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

-------------
If you can, you cantry moving them farther from the wall and you can try diffusing the flash some to soften the light.

daldds Loc: NYC

You've received many excellent suggestions, including bounce and watching out for ambient light. If this was a hurried shot, i.e.,"let me grab a shot before we leave" type of shot, you just have to accept what you have.
But, when you have a couple of minutes, pick your background. Try to avoid having the flash light up the background as much as it does the subjects. It's too confusing. Look at your angles and the possibility of reflections. You can see your flash in one of the shots. Finally, keep the camera height higher or lower than the faces (eyes) and your subjects away from the background. Good portraits need some planning.

anotherview Loc: California

Both of these photographers have mastered flash lighting and know how to teach it to others.

(1) Neil van Niekerk

https://neilvn.com/

See his book: "On-Camera Flash Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photography"

(First edition if you can find it, but second edition works, too)

(2) David Hobby

https://strobist.blogspot.com/

He offers a step-by-step approach.
---
Note that flash lighting presents its own learning curve. Stick with it. You will thank yourself later because flash lighting opens more photo opportunities.

Amadeus Loc: New York

Yes, another detail I’ve learned. I usually shoot at highest sync speed I can, 1/250. If I lower the shutter speed, from what I understand, more of the ambient light used will soften shadows. A wealth of useful information in all the responses. Thank you all again.

jno

A partial solution is to have the gorgeous ladies at least four feet away from the wall. This will soften but not eliminate hard shadows.

jim quist Loc: Missouri

You can rotate the camera. I used to use a bracket for the flash when I used a hasselblad in film days. I bet if you bounce the flash off the ceiling you will be pleased with the effect

anotherview Loc: California

Yes to bounced flash lighting off the ceiling (and off other surfaces, too).

Herewith, useful sources of information and teaching pertaining to flash lighting (AKA artificial lighting):

Both of these photographers have mastered flash lighting and know how to teach it to others.

(1) Neil van Niekerk

https://neilvn.com/

See his book: "On-Camera Flash Techniques for Digital Wedding and Portrait Photography"

(First edition if you can find it, but second edition works, too)

(2) David Hobby

https://strobist.blogspot.com/

He offers a step-by-step approach.
---
Note that flash lighting presents its own learning curve. Stick with it. You will thank yourself later because flash lighting opens more photo opportunities.

jcboy3

I have been using flash brackets for a very long time. What I don't like about most of them is the size and unwieldly operation. Note that if you have a bounce card on the flash, you can't rotate the flash. If you are bouncing the flash, you can't rotate the flash. The only workable solution is to rotate the camera.

Eventually, I settled on the Custom Brackets RF-Pro AS.

https://www.adorama.com/cbrfproas.html

It folds down and fits in a Travelon 8 x 5.5 x 1" packing cube. It has an Arca mount for easy attacment to the camera.

I use a ProMedia gear CS2 cold shoe.

https://www.adorama.com. This is a low profile cold shoe that is held securely by the bracket.

Finally, I use flash with radio trigger, to avoid dealing with cables.

And I've screwed into the base an adapter to attach a black rapid sling.

I shoot a lot of events, and this setup is quite portable, flexible, and easy to use.