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Flash Shadow
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Jul 14, 2023 08:09:31   #
Tudor Loc: Bucyrus OH
 
I shoot Nikon, with an older SB600 speedlight. It has a swivel head, so I can turn it straight on or up with vertical shots. I bounce off the ceiling if it's low enough, and attach a small white card with a rubber band to add fill light to the shadows under the nose, eyebrows, etc. By shooting TTL, I have no problems other than the height and color of the ceiling.

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Jul 14, 2023 08:52:47   #
Amadeus Loc: New York
 
Tudor wrote:
I shoot Nikon, with an older SB600 speedlight. It has a swivel head, so I can turn it straight on or up with vertical shots. I bounce off the ceiling if it's low enough, and attach a small white card with a rubber band to add fill light to the shadows under the nose, eyebrows, etc. By shooting TTL, I have no problems other than the height and color of the ceiling.

That is interesting. I like to shoot TTL however when I move my Godox to any position other than the normal straight on position, the TTL indicator disappears. So I’m not sure if the function works when bouncing.

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Jul 14, 2023 09:25:53   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
Amadeus wrote:
That is interesting. I like to shoot TTL however when I move my Godox to any position other than the normal straight on position, the TTL indicator disappears. So I’m not sure if the function works when bouncing.


Bouncing the flash loses a lot of light. Godox may have chosen to deal with this by providing that function only when using direct flash.

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Jul 14, 2023 10:03:56   #
JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco
 
Amadeus wrote:
That is interesting. I like to shoot TTL however when I move my Godox to any position other than the normal straight on position, the TTL indicator disappears. So I’m not sure if the function works when bouncing.


If so, that would be a serious disadvantage to Godox. My Nikon flash retains TTL no matter how it's positioned. Do you still get consistent exposures when bouncing?

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Jul 14, 2023 10:35:32   #
Amadeus Loc: New York
 
JohnSwanda wrote:
If so, that would be a serious disadvantage to Godox. My Nikon flash retains TTL no matter how it's positioned. Do you still get consistent exposures when bouncing?


I haven’t tried it often. But I think when I did the exposures we’re ok. But I’m going to play with it again. I have to dig deeper into the flash functions. To me the flash settings become complicated especially when you don’t use the TTL mode. I appreciate your responses.

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Jul 24, 2023 14:05:17   #
Amadeus Loc: New York
 
Just a quick note and thanks again for all your input. I did purchase a stroboframe 350 and a connector from Vello. I had the opportunity to try it out this past weekend. A family birthday. It worked nicely. It adds weight and is a bit cumbersome but I’m sure I’ll get used to it. I thought when I posted I had this “unique” problem. Shows what a novice I am in certain areas. That’s why I like this place. The info is priceless.

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Aug 5, 2023 20:58:05   #
Ourspolair
 
I have a flip frame - it is a pain to cart around. Best solution would be to use a flash diffuser or bounce the flash as already suggested.

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Aug 13, 2023 19:07:49   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
The dreaded wall shadow is an old problem with direct on-camera flash. In ancient times we used to hand-hand the flash unit as well as a bulkey 4x5 press camera and hold the flash high and aimed downward. All you need is a coiled synch cord, a quick-release mechanism for the flash, and some over-developed forearms. It was like running around like a one-armed wallpaper hanger. If you were not good at this technique, you would kill the wall shadow but end up getting seriously uneven lighting.

So back in 1961, I made my own swinging flash bracket that held the flash head 12 inches over the lens in both vertical and horizontal orientations. Since then there have been at least a dozen various models of these types of brackets made by various manufacturers.

This method and configuration is effective for direct flash, employing a fill light for multiple off-camera flashes, flash fill out-of -doors, bare bulb operation, and with a simple tilt attachment, you can still bounce. It will also work with various modifiers in place.

It is not only employed to negate wall shadows but also to provide an even direct flash with a bit more vertical modeling but also a fill light that will not cause disunity of lighting that is caused by multiple directions of shadows on the subjects.

My flash bracket rig is a modified stock unit with a kind of "gimble mechanism"- it flips in a second with one motion.





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Sep 26, 2023 12:34:56   #
flyboy61 Loc: The Great American Desert
 
dennis2146 wrote:
Meaning no disrespect, please make sure that flask is empty before bouncing it off the ceiling.

Sorry but I could not resist. Perhaps there is still time to change it.

Dennis



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Sep 26, 2023 14:59:02   #
flyboy61 Loc: The Great American Desert
 
dennis2146 wrote:
My FIRST thought is how can he be complaining when he has three absolutely beautiful women just feet in front of him. But then my mind came back to normal and I read the post entirely. I THINK when the camera is in the horizontal mode the flash is spread out more, left to right and so the shadows are diminished or gone. But in the portrait/vertical mode the shadows are concentrated top to bottom and that is why you notice the shadows to the side of the subjects. Perhaps if you were to use a flash diffuser as macro shooters would use for insects or close up objects it would diffuse the flash to take away the shadows. You might also try aiming the flash, if possible, to bounce off the ceiling.

Dennis
My FIRST thought is how can he be complaining when... (show quote)



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Sep 26, 2023 15:01:04   #
flyboy61 Loc: The Great American Desert
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
The dreaded wall shadow is an old problem with direct on-camera flash. In ancient times we used to hand-hand the flash unit as well as a bulkey 4x5 press camera and hold the flash high and aimed downward. All you need is a coiled synch cord, a quick-release mechanism for the flash, and some over-developed forearms. It was like running around like a one-armed wallpaper hanger. If you were not good at this technique, you would kill the wall shadow but end up getting seriously uneven lighting.

So back in 1961, I made my own swinging flash bracket that held the flash head 12 inches over the lens in both vertical and horizontal orientations. Since then there have been at least a dozen various models of these types of brackets made by various manufacturers.

This method and configuration is effective for direct flash, employing a fill light for multiple off-camera flashes, flash fill out-of -doors, bare bulb operation, and with a simple tilt attachment, you can still bounce. It will also work with various modifiers in place.

It is not only employed to negate wall shadows but also to provide an even direct flash with a bit more vertical modeling but also a fill light that will not cause disunity of lighting that is caused by multiple directions of shadows on the subjects.

My flash bracket rig is a modified stock unit with a kind of "gimble mechanism"- it flips in a second with one motion.
The dreaded wall shadow is an old problem with dir... (show quote)


WOW! Really creative!

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Sep 27, 2023 10:36:55   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
Merlin1300 wrote:
In the first photo - the flash is directly over the centerline of the lens. The shadows are still there - but more directly behind the subject. I'll bet you rotate your camera clockwise - putting the flash to your right. This puts the flash off-center to the right - causing the shadows to be more prominently seen on the left side of the image.


You’re absolutely correct. In the portrait photo, note the prominent shadow along the woman's lower right arm. There are lots of short YouTube videos on techniques for on-camera Speedlight shots.

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Oct 10, 2023 23:02:52   #
jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania
 
Amadeus wrote:
I have a Canon 80D and a Godox 860 external. I find when I shoot in normal landscape mode the shots are fine. If I turn the camera 90 degrees and shoot in portrait position I get really bad shadows on a background object. A wall or whatever. I haven’t tried bouncing the flash or any other techniques. The shadows are always to the subjects right so maybe it’s the slight difference in the angle when turning the camera. Any suggestions are appreciated. I have attached 2 examples. They were taken seconds apart with no change of subject or my position.
I have a Canon 80D and a Godox 860 external. I fin... (show quote)


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It is because of the positioning of the flash. When you are shooting horizontally the shadow is falling down behind the subject and the subject is hiding the shadow. If your flash was off-camera so it stayed horizontal you wouldn't get the side shadowing. You could try bouncing the light off of the wall and it would give you softer light which vould eliminate or at least soften the shadow.

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Oct 11, 2023 22:44:22   #
coolhanduke Loc: Redondo Beach, CA
 
Get a bracket that lets you rotate your flash. Problem solved.

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Oct 11, 2023 23:23:32   #
Amadeus Loc: New York
 
coolhanduke wrote:
Get a bracket that lets you rotate your flash. Problem solved.


Yes I did that. The bracket did solve the problem.

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