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What's better to use: a tilt-shift lens, or software; or perhaps both?
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Jul 1, 2023 06:53:08   #
BebuLamar
 
Architect1776 wrote:
A stopped clock is correct twice a day.
Cheers.


Depending on what is displayed. It can be correct twice a day, once a day, once a month, once a year or only once.

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Jul 1, 2023 06:59:02   #
Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Those old Professional Photo Guides are great little resources……

I like to joke with the smart**s rookies and tell them that I have already forgotten what they haven’t learned yet….


Of course you realize that most people (mostly millennials) are down right lazy as dirt. They are the kind of people who spend a half hour searching for the television remote. When I was a kid, I was my parent’s remote control.

I am fond of those people who are willing to work to get the photo, Not sit on a nice cushy chair and be a mindless drone in front of a computer.

Thank you for being like me and being a well worn leather coat that isn’t afraid of doing something correct. I thank you for your wise and sage advice.

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Jul 1, 2023 06:59:59   #
Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Those old Professional Photo Guides are great little resources. Of course, a lot of the film data and specifications are for materials that are no longer in manufacture and the ones that remain are mostly changed. The many calculator dials, charts, and illustrations about optics, perspective control, electronic flash data, and more are all still valid and applicable to digital technology.

I like to joke with the smart**s rookies and tell them that I have already forgotten what haven't learned yet but when I forget a formula or some technical fact, I pull out my little book- It's always in my camera bag, They are still available through used book stores and online sources.
Those old Professional Photo Guides are great litt... (show quote)

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Jul 1, 2023 07:20:31   #
Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD
 
I typically use 3-4 lights. A speed light on a stick at the camera with one or two Godox A200’s on stands lighting adjacent rooms. I balance interior with exterior light with shutter speed and use layer masks in PS for eliminating flash reflections in windows. I use the built in camera level to square up vertical and horizontal lines and LR to correct when I can’t (usually for exteriors). Everything in RAW with lots of burning and dodging.

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Jul 1, 2023 08:12:40   #
awesomeda
 
I use a Nikon 850 and am active principally in landscape photography. In that area I use a Nikon 19mm tilt shift and found that it produces stunning images, very crisp even with deep pixel peeping. Beautiful images right out of the camera. I will tell you that using Live View is critical as you will still need to near and refocus far going back and forth to get the best focus you need. The in-focus near is very close to the in-focus far. Or you can just shoot two focused images and merge in PS. I have a number of lens all of very high quality and this is the very best. I believe you can easily use this the architectural photos and love the results. Hope this helps, good luck!

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Jul 1, 2023 10:17:01   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
awesomeda wrote:
I use a Nikon 850 and am active principally in landscape photography. In that area I use a Nikon 19mm tilt shift and found that it produces stunning images, very crisp even with deep pixel peeping. Beautiful images right out of the camera. I will tell you that using Live View is critical as you will still need to near and refocus far going back and forth to get the best focus you need. The in-focus near is very close to the in-focus far. Or you can just shoot two focused images and merge in PS. I have a number of lens all of very high quality and this is the very best. I believe you can easily use this the architectural photos and love the results. Hope this helps, good luck!
I use a Nikon 850 and am active principally in lan... (show quote)


On mirrorless you have live view in the viewfinder unlike old DSLRs to determine what is in focus.

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Jul 1, 2023 10:19:11   #
BebuLamar
 
Scruples wrote:
Of course you realize that most people (mostly millennials) are down right lazy as dirt. They are the kind of people who spend a half hour searching for the television remote. When I was a kid, I was my parent’s remote control.

I am fond of those people who are willing to work to get the photo, Not sit on a nice cushy chair and be a mindless drone in front of a computer.

Thank you for being like me and being a well worn leather coat that isn’t afraid of doing something correct. I thank you for your wise and sage advice.
Of course you realize that most people (mostly mil... (show quote)


I guess due to the kids suing their parents for making them their remote control, most TV now can't be operated with just the kid. You have to have the remote control.

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Jul 1, 2023 10:45:43   #
Nicholas J DeSciose
 
Shoot in raw gives you more options whenever possible start off with a lens first

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Jul 1, 2023 11:27:26   #
profbowman Loc: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
 
larryepage wrote:
Years ago, I had a 35mm shift lens for my Olympus film cameras. It was fairly effective, but was limited to manual stop-down operation and had noticeable brightness fall-off at the most extreme shifts. And f/3.5 could be pretty limiting. I've not used any modern tilt lenses.

One thing to keep in mind is that any straightening or perspective adjustments that are done in post processing will result in some loss of fine detail. This results from the trigonometry of moving pixels around. It is unavoidable and uncorrectable, although there are techniques that can mitigate the impact on overall appearance.

You don't mention what lens(es) you use for your architectural photography, but the simplest and most straightforward method for me is to use a full-frame rectilinear extreme wide angle lens. This allows me to keep the film plane vertical and parallel to the building front. Doing so eliminates the most objectionable distortions. The only cost is some surplus pixels lost to an excessive amount of foreground, which can be easily cropped away. (I'm doing what a shift lens would do, just without the shift.) I use my 14-24mm f/2.8 lens for this.

I realize that this may not work for you. Architectural photography is an occasional thing for me, whereas it seems to be a more serious pursuit for you. But it might be an option while you are deciding which route to follow.
Years ago, I had a 35mm shift lens for my Olympus ... (show quote)


I do some transformation of "perspective" as GIMP calls it. But keep in mind that getting rid of it completely results oft3en in a photo the appears not possible to have taken because our brains have been taught that straight parallel lines rarely exist in real life.

The loss of some fine detail mentioned by Larry can usually be minimized by reducing the size of the photo after changing its perspective. So, it is often good to change the perspective near the beginning of one's post-processing. --Richard

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Jul 1, 2023 11:33:56   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
profbowman wrote:
I do some transformation of "perspective" as GIMP calls it. But keep in mind that getting rid of it completely results oft3en in a photo the appears not possible to have taken because our brains have been taught that straight parallel lines rarely exist in real life.

The loss of some fine detail mentioned by Larry can usually be minimized by reducing the size of the photo after changing its perspective. So, it is often good to change the perspective near the beginning of one's post-processing. --Richard
I do some transformation of "perspective"... (show quote)


Over-correcting can result in the unnatural forced perspective that is common in primitive paintings or the modernism of the 1920s or so.

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Jul 1, 2023 11:47:43   #
delder Loc: Maryland
 
Old School, we would tilt the paper in the enlarger!
[ if we didn't have the right camera]

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Jul 1, 2023 13:40:39   #
MrPhotog
 
delder wrote:
Old School, we would tilt the paper in the enlarger!
[ if we didn't have the right camera]


And then fumble for some way to tilt the lens so both ends of the enlargement could be in focus. Lens tilt was something rare on most enlargers.

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Jul 1, 2023 13:50:30   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
Questions like the one in this thread will garner many opinions. The best way for them and anon else to make a decision should be based on common sense. individual requires budgetary consideration.

Because my "day job" is in photography, I may tend to voice the "professional" side of the equation, however, even in business, there has to be a budgetary decision on whether or not a significant investment in specialized equipment t is justified and if it the gear in consideration will be in frequent use and if it will eventually pay for itself in efficiency, quality, and customer satisfaction.

Personally, I have experienced both ends of the spectrum as per distortion management. I have spent hours on a single architectural shoot, interior and exterior, with a large format view camera or a customized digitally converted medium format camer, using every possible camera movement to "put it all on the negat, transparency or digital file. I also have made casual shots with my cell phone, quickly edited them on an Android app, and come uo with decent enough results but nothing that is going to be scrutinized by an architect or made into extreme large display prints.

As I have written in many previous posts, I try to point out the ideal ways and means, that may be expensive and extensive and also mention many workaround methods.

Also, somtimes it is more effective to NOT even attempt to correct the perspective and use the dynamic converging lines for graphic compositions or intentionally forced the perspective.









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Jul 1, 2023 13:58:55   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
MrPhotog wrote:
And then fumble for some way to tilt the lens so both ends of the enlargement could be in focus. Lens tilt was something rare on most enlargers.


What does this have to do with the question at hand?

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Jul 1, 2023 14:00:00   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Questions like the one in this thread will garner many opinions. The best way for them and anon else to make a decision should be based on common sense. individual requires budgetary consideration.

Because my "day job" is in photography, I may tend to voice the "professional" side of the equation, however, even in business, there has to be a budgetary decision on whether or not a significant investment in specialized equipment t is justified and if it the gear in consideration will be in frequent use and if it will eventually pay for itself in efficiency, quality, and customer satisfaction.

Personally, I have experienced both ends of the spectrum as per distortion management. I have spent hours on a single architectural shoot, interior and exterior, with a large format view camera or a customized digitally converted medium format camer, using every possible camera movement to "put it all on the negat, transparency or digital file. I also have made casual shots with my cell phone, quickly edited them on an Android app, and come uo with decent enough results but nothing that is going to be scrutinized by an architect or made into extreme large display prints.

As I have written in many previous posts, I try to point out the ideal ways and means, that may be expensive and extensive and also mention many workaround methods.

Also, somtimes it is more effective to NOT even attempt to correct the perspective and use the dynamic converging lines for graphic compositions or intentionally forced the perspective.
Questions like the one in this thread will garner ... (show quote)


Interesting but way overcooked.

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