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canvas like pictures
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Dec 5, 2012 14:52:00   #
GPoyner Loc: North Dakota
 
Very similer method that you discribed above, but you take tissue paper and tape it to a piece of paper (I usually use card/heavy stock paper). Then you print at normal (not photo) levels, let the tissue paper dry and mod podg onto canvas. I'll try and find the link for you.



woman44004 wrote:
GPoyner wrote:
I have tried this, but with the Tissue paper method. This method gives you more of the texture as you would find on an actual canvas print. It is not for the faint of heart and does take some trail and error to get it just right. They are fun gifts, I did one for my sister in-law when I did their newborn session.


How is this done with tissue paper?

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Dec 5, 2012 15:04:29   #
ric158
 
GPoyner wrote:
Very similer method that you discribed above, but you take tissue paper and tape it to a piece of paper (I usually use card/heavy stock paper). Then you print at normal (not photo) levels, let the tissue paper dry and mod podg onto canvas. I'll try and find the link for you.
please post the link if u can Ric


woman44004 wrote:
GPoyner wrote:
I have tried this, but with the Tissue paper method. This method gives you more of the texture as you would find on an actual canvas print. It is not for the faint of heart and does take some trail and error to get it just right. They are fun gifts, I did one for my sister in-law when I did their newborn session.


How is this done with tissue paper?
Very similer method that you discribed above, but ... (show quote)

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Dec 5, 2012 15:12:16   #
GPoyner Loc: North Dakota
 
Here's the link I was looking for:

http://sarahsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/wall-art-for-siennas-room.html

You can also just google Tissue Paper Printing on Canvas, I will note that I adjusted her method to work for me and that the main trail and error is getting the tissue paper not to get stuck (so use an old printer or at least not your best one). If I don't lay the paper right and take my time smoothing out the paper I do get wrinkles...depending on the picture that may work for you.....thanks

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Dec 5, 2012 15:29:48   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
Thank you Travelwp

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Dec 5, 2012 15:43:26   #
bayman Loc: Delaware
 
Hi Guys, Can anyone help me i am on a church prog. and need
a Photo of a lit candle.

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Dec 5, 2012 18:51:12   #
Wahawk Loc: NE IA
 
bayman wrote:
Hi Guys, Can anyone help me i am on a church prog. and need
a Photo of a lit candle.


Suggest you create a new topic and post it in the Photo Gallery section and pose the same question. Use a title of "Need Pic of Lit Candle" and you will most likely get some response.

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Dec 5, 2012 22:42:16   #
Tjon Loc: Wash DC
 
I would love to have that box fame plan.

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Dec 5, 2012 23:11:01   #
shallemeier Loc: Troy, MO
 
I worked for a cabinet shop for 27 years but took up photography after I had left due to medical reasons. There are a lot of vendor sites that sell story blocks which are similar but they use fiber board (very light) and countersink 4 holes on the back so you can hang portrait or landscape. Some even start with a much larger one for the back and and smaller ones on top (idea is to be able to change photos out) I have currently been working on one but using the 1/4" foam core to see how it turns out. If you protect the photo, they are dang near indestructible, I hang mine on my grand daughter's door using velcro, she removes them all the time and carries them around. Also black or white formica can make for nice background and base photos. Clamp it to a ping pong table that has one side up and leave a curve in it, then there are no wrinkles or lines in your stock or still life photos!-Sherry

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Dec 6, 2012 06:01:06   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
TJon...I'll get it to you later today....
Yes vendors sell them, but try and get one for a print you have cropped to an unusual/custom size.
Using foam core is great, the only couple issues is covering the edges...when we used Foam Core we would take Artist Colored Paper Tape to wrap around the perimeter.also Foam core would warp after awhile or sag into the box if they were large. Things tend to ward toward the side not supported or covered, if you decide to use foam core, coat the back side with a sealer. It helps stabilize it and it will breath the same as the front side (which is in a sense sealed by the dry mounted print). This is true with any substrate.
We too would drill 4 holes in the back then use a keyhole router bit to complete the hole for hanging. They were also great as free standing with a slight weight placed in back on lower part of frame. These were very popular in the Parson table days. Everything was flush and cubical. There are so many different concepts, building methods etc.etc. The great thing was is was usually made from all scrap materials heading for the trash bin.

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Dec 12, 2012 03:20:00   #
shallemeier Loc: Troy, MO
 
OnDSnap wrote:
TJon...I'll get it to you later today....
Yes vendors sell them, but try and get one for a print you have cropped to an unusual/custom size.
Using foam core is great, the only couple issues is covering the edges...when we used Foam Core we would take Artist Colored Paper Tape to wrap around the perimeter.also Foam core would warp after awhile or sag into the box if they were large. Things tend to ward toward the side not supported or covered, if you decide to use foam core, coat the back side with a sealer. It helps stabilize it and it will breath the same as the front side (which is in a sense sealed by the dry mounted print). This is true with any substrate.
We too would drill 4 holes in the back then use a keyhole router bit to complete the hole for hanging. They were also great as free standing with a slight weight placed in back on lower part of frame. These were very popular in the Parson table days. Everything was flush and cubical. There are so many different concepts, building methods etc.etc. The great thing was is was usually made from all scrap materials heading for the trash bin.
TJon...I'll get it to you later today.... br Yes v... (show quote)


Thanks for the special note on sealing the back side also. I should know this already as this is the same for counters cabinets etc.!

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Dec 12, 2012 05:52:19   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
I build cabinets and custom woodworking... and yes most don't seal the backs....I do, in fact anything I put a finish on, or seal one side I'll do the same or equal to the reverse side. Edges too are always over looked...look at the top and bottoms of your doors...chances are they are not painted or sealed...no wonder the warp, stick etc...

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Dec 16, 2012 00:28:41   #
frangeo Loc: Texas
 
woman44004 wrote:
Seen this on pinterest and decided to try it. We're suspose to make our make xmas gifts this year and I thought why not. They turned out so nice that i'm doing a section of my living room wall. It was easy, just cut wood the size of photo you want to use, paint the wood. Let dry. mod podge the wood, lay the pic on top, remove any bubbles,let dry. Mod podge the top, let dry. Make you sure you cover the top with enough mod podge. Sand rough edges on side.You can make your mod podge by using half elmers glue and half water, mix well. Here's one one of the pictures I just finished.
Seen this on pinterest and decided to try it. We'r... (show quote)


OMG. What a flash back. When I was an advertising Manager in the 70”s the craft buyer came to me with this “new” stuff called “Mod Podge”. Cool stuff for print effects. I haven’t thought of that in years

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Dec 16, 2012 01:11:19   #
wrr Loc: SEK
 
Walmart has a similar product mounted on wood. They are very nice. People seem to really like them, I've sold 3 in the past week.

http://tinyurl.com/cke33zt

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Dec 16, 2012 07:22:39   #
OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey
 
We also did something similar, we would soak the print in water (If I recall correctly) after a while the print coating would separate from the backing, just like a decal, lay in on a piece of wood, then brush or spray on a clear coating...very popular with Country style decor.

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