jcboy3

The issue I have with this approach is that you have to remove the lens to change filters. I am often knee deep in a river near a waterfall (with the possibility of spray) and I add/change filters as I shoot. Handling filters in that situation is tricky enough; changing lenses is just an invitation for disaster.

On the other hand, I would use this for astrophotography along with their clear night filter. I have a problem keeping the add on filters for uwa lenses warm enough to avoid condensation when shooting in the pre-dawn hours (and I really don't like using a fan).

2buckskin Loc: Wyoming

I have the NISI system, while not cheap they are very high quality and great customer service.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

You make some good points but I really like these filters, rather than change filters you can use the ISO to change the stops. 6 stops at ISO 100 becomes 4 stops at ISO 400, most of our newer cameras handle ISOs at 1600 and above without noticeable deterioration of the image. It's maybe not the best solution for all but with the bubble front element on many of the ultrawides this certainly is an inexpensive alternative to the large filter holders and expensive slide in filters which can cost well over $1000 to get the holder and a variety of good filters.

Below is an image I posted the other day taken with that filter system @ ISO 400 using a 4 stop filter, by adjusting the ISO it was the same as shooting with a 2 stop filter at ISO 100.

Anyway, like I said, maybe not the best solution for everyone but I like the idea of inserting a filter before hiking down to to where I am going to shoot and then not having to fiddle around with a large filter set and just using ISO settings to control the stops.

(Download)

jcboy3

Using ISO is not really changing the exposure, which is entirely dependent on shutter speed and aperture. And on ISO invariant cameras, does nothing.

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Exposure is a triangle and ISO is one side of the triangle. I am not familiar with ISO invariant cameras, personally I shoot Canon and only ever use Manual or Aperture priority settings. I have a buddy who has a large slide in filter set and keeping his filters clean out in the field and changing them is probably more of a challenge than setting up his shots. But to each his own, whatever works for you and the type of photography you are doing is what you should do, I do like this set and when you think about it the savings in not having to buy a 150mm filter set paid for my 14-24mm lens.

Canisdirus

Polar pro ND's.
Expensive but absolutely top notch...the top ones always are expensive.

Bill_de Loc: US

Thanks

---

Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore

ND filters for waterfall is a trial and error process. Keep varying exposure and check your results. Push the limits

Russch

Is this feature on my Olympus E-M5 mark III? If so is it called something different in the manual index? Thanks

jcboy3

Sorry, only em1.3, em1x, and OM1.

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

A mind-blowingly beautiful scenic composition 🟢🔵🤍🔵🟢

photoman43

Before you decide on brand and ND strength, you need to think about whether you want a screw in ND filter that fits right on your lens or a holder system that takes a round filter or a square or rectangular filter. The holder system is quite versatile, but is not the easiest to use on trips where space is at a premium or conditions make it difficult to add a holder and a filter.

The simplest approach is to use a screw in ND filter that fits directly on your lens, or fits a step up ring, like for a 77mm ND filter (or 82mm) that you can use on lenses that take filters like from 52mm to 77mm (82mm). If I were going to Iceland, I would likely skip the holder system and use a screw in filter. I would take a 3 stop and a 5 or 6 stop with step up rings for each lens' filter size you might use. This allows for varying lighting situations and desired blur . Brands I would check out are Singh Ray, Breakthrough, B + W, and Nisi.

Make sure your step up rings are made of metal--aluminum or brass. You want high quality rings. Same goes for the filter.

Here are a few links to look at:

https://singh-ray.com/shop/step-up-rings/

https://singh-ray.com/shop/mor-slo-solid-neutral-density-nd-filter/

https://nisiopticsusa.com/shop/nisi-circular-filters/round-nd-filters/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMItsuIx4Lq-QIVgwnnCh0mLg2JEAAYASAAEgItC_D_BwE

Russch

Thanks

fotojeff

I have a set of breakthrough and a set of lee. I like the break through screw type better than the lee inserts. I agree with an above poster it’s simpler and less stuff to carry around. I’ve also noticed the breakthroughs have less color cast than the lees.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I have been a fan of B+W filters for a long time... But they recently raised their prices A LOT!

I've been experimenting with K&F Concepts filters, which claim to use the same Schott glass as B+W, as well as good multi-coatings. So far, I've been impressed with a couple C-Pol. I am thinking of buying some of the ND too, which they offer in kits of three or four that cost less than one B+W filter. For example, in the 72mm size I need a B+W 3-stop (ND 0.9 or ND8) costs $120. Or I can get a set of K&F 2-stop, 3-stop, 6-stop and 10-stop for $71! Or, I might try the magnetic filters they've recently introduced, which cost $54 to $56 each in the size I need.

https://www.kentfaith.com/lens-filters

If you decide to give these a try, allow some time for shipping. They took about a week to arrive when I ordered them.