Planning a trip to Iceland and want to get a set of ND filters mostly for shooting waterfalls. I’d like to get a “set” vs. just one so I have some options depending on weather and light conditions. What manufacturers would you suggest and how many stops? I’ve used ND filters in the past but not extensively, so I’m a bit of a newbie to them. These will also be used at the beach for sunsets and getting some long exposure images of the Gulf. Thanks in advance….
The Hoya PRO ND’s are good. As are the Marumis. I carry a 3, 6, and 10 stop ND set. The 10 stop gets the majority of use.
rmalarz wrote:
I recommend B+W filters.
--Bob
Thanks Bob. I use B+W for my haze filters and they are great.
Spirit Vision Photography wrote:
The Hoya PRO ND’s are good. As are the Marumis. I carry a 3, 6, and 10 stop ND set. The 10 stop gets the majority of use.
Thanks! Sounds like a good range.
Also consider Breakthrough Photography's ND filters. Very high quality glass. They claim that both their X2 versions and X4 versions are more color neutral than ND filters made by B+W, Lee or Formatt-Hitech.
Even if you purchase elsewhere, their website has a buying guide and a free 52-page guide to long exposure that are worth checking out.
https://breakthrough.photography
David Martin wrote:
Also consider Breakthrough Photography's ND filters. Very high quality glass. They claim that both their X2 versions and X4 versions are more color neutral than ND filters made by B+W, Lee or Formatt-Hitech.
Even if you purchase elsewhere, their website has a buying guide and a free 52-page guide to long exposure that are worth checking out.
https://breakthrough.photographyThanks for the link - I'm not familiar with them but will definitely check out their products and that 52-page guide.
jcwall396 wrote:
Planning a trip to Iceland and want to get a set of ND filters mostly for shooting waterfalls. I’d like to get a “set” vs. just one so I have some options depending on weather and light conditions. What manufacturers would you suggest and how many stops? I’ve used ND filters in the past but not extensively, so I’m a bit of a newbie to them. These will also be used at the beach for sunsets and getting some long exposure images of the Gulf. Thanks in advance….
No matter what ND filters you get, you will have to deal with color cast. I always take a normal exposure without any ND filters, and then one or more longer exposures with a set of ND filters. The water is easy to color correct, and I blend the long exposures with the normal exposure to avoid issues with motion by wind as well as color cast from filters.
I use ICE filters these days; they are low profile, relatively free of color cast, and inexpensive. I have a 3 filter set for each of my lenses, but also a 6 filter set in a large diameter that I can use with step-up rings on the other lenses if needed.
Since Olympus introduced Live ND (which does long exposures without a filter, thus avoiding color cast) I tend to use ND filters a lot less than before. The only time I really need an ND filter is if I need a relatively fast shutter speed to avoid motion blur (rather than produce it). These cases are shooting sports, propeller airplanes, and portraits where I want shallow DOF.
SX2002
Loc: Adelaide, South Australia
I don't use one very much but the one I bought to save having to buy a "set" or a few, was a variable ND filter...
jcboy3 wrote:
The only time I really need an ND filter is if I need a relatively fast shutter speed to avoid motion blur (rather than produce it). These cases are shooting sports, propeller airplanes, and portraits where I want shallow DOF.
I'm confused ... again. I thought using an ND filter would force you to use a slower shutter speed to compensate for reduced light hitting the sensor.
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jcwall396 wrote:
Planning a trip to Iceland and want to get a set of ND filters mostly for shooting waterfalls. I’d like to get a “set” vs. just one so I have some options depending on weather and light conditions. What manufacturers would you suggest and how many stops? I’ve used ND filters in the past but not extensively, so I’m a bit of a newbie to them. These will also be used at the beach for sunsets and getting some long exposure images of the Gulf. Thanks in advance….
Breakthrough, Nisi, Kase, Polar Pro.
Bill_de wrote:
I'm confused ... again. I thought using an ND filter would force you to use a slower shutter speed to compensate for reduced light hitting the sensor.
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You're not confused, jc just got that wrong. For a few select lenses, a couple of Canon lenses, a couple of Nikon lenses as well as a couple of Sigma Ultrwides, and the Tampon 15-30. Haida makes an excellent and affordable alternative to traditional ND filters. I have a set and love it, I don't see a color cast and for $135.00 you get four filters. It requires that you replace the rear cover ring of your lens with a cover that will hold the filter, for me it was simply 3 screws on my Sigma 14-24. The set comes with 3, 4, 6, and 10 stop filters.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1566546-REG/haida_hd4592_haida_rear_lens_nd.html
Bill_de wrote:
I'm confused ... again. I thought using an ND filter would force you to use a slower shutter speed to compensate for reduced light hitting the sensor.
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This statement pertains to the use of LiveND on Olympus cameras. LiveND is a computational mode that combines a number of exposures to simulate an ND filter. As a result, shutter speeds are always slow and a stable camera is necessary (although stabilization can provide what is needed if shutter speeds are not too slow). If I need a shutter speed like 1/125 sec for prop blur, then I have to resort to an ND filter.
Although I still may use an ND filter for long exposures, especially if I want exposures in the seconds. I will take some LiveND shots and then add ND filters. I often wind up just using the LiveND shots because they are long enough exposures to obtain the effect I want. And that simplifies the processing.
jcboy3 wrote:
This statement pertains to the use of LiveND on Olympus cameras. LiveND is a computational mode that combines a number of exposures to simulate an ND filter. As a result, shutter speeds are always slow and a stable camera is necessary (although stabilization can provide what is needed if shutter speeds are not too slow). If I need a shutter speed like 1/125 sec for prop blur, then I have to resort to an ND filter.
Although I still may use an ND filter for long exposures, especially if I want exposures in the seconds. I will take some LiveND shots and then add ND filters. I often wind up just using the LiveND shots because they are long enough exposures to obtain the effect I want. And that simplifies the processing.
This statement pertains to the use of LiveND on Ol... (
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So.. Now that you have explained Olympus cameras your earlier response makes more sense.
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