Amadeus Loc: New York

Thank you! :)

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Exactly what is needed. The second image, full body and more distant, shows a large zone but off to the right of the frame, with no AF points on the dancer, rather they're on the wall behind. All the suggestions below would apply to that image as well.

I believe you'll get better results with adjustments to your camera settings and shooting technique rather than a new lens. Rather than waiting to the next low-light shooting situation, you can change the settings and test / practice on any subject (static or moving) around the house or yard, especially the tracking / panning technique on a moving subject and then releasing (pressing) the shutter when the subject is at the best / nearest position to capture a burst of images. What you want to prove, especially with 50 f/1.4, is you can raise, focus and shoot nearly instantaneously and obtain sharply focused images where the AF points fall. Then, you need to practice a) pre-positioning the AF zone within the frame and b) the finger dexterity to move that zone around the frame without lowering the camera.

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Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Amadeus as I previously mentioned you will need to stop your AF 50mm f1.4 prime down to gain reasonable acuity.

Below are actual test results of this Canon optic on a 70D (close to your 80D) albeit the results are similar on other higher end Canon 1.6 APS-C bodies. As obvious from DxOmarks test results you'll be far better served above f/2 and personally I'd error on the side of caution and shot it a f/2.8. There this optic preforms extremely well.

For others? This is a lesson on why researching your kit carefully is paramount a.k.a. please don't rely on forum heresay or vendor hype... experience is a brutal teacher... I've fallen into that trap many times when I wore a younger man's cloths.

Once again.... Wishing you much success on your photographic journey Amadeus.
You are truly fortunate to have such stunning athletes to work with...
Please capture those precious moments in competition for them.

Acuity by Aperture and Focal Length

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Acuity at f/1.4

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Acuity at f/2.8

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Amadeus Loc: New York

Thank you once again Paul. I do use BBF but ordinarily use the 9 point vertical zone focusing. I think I was trying different things that day to achieve better focus. I will make the changes you suggest and try them out. I certainly would like to stick with 50mm, if for nothing else, the difference in size and weight compared to the Sigma. I ain't as young as springtime as someone once said. :)
Thanks again for your help. Your dedication to those who benefit is immeasurable.
Tom

irishrover61 Loc: Miami, FL

Thank You.

Amadeus Loc: New York

Thank you Thomas. It's good to know this info, as to sweet spot on a lens. I knew 1.4 isn't it but wasn't sure where the best was. I'm goin to try and stay at f2-f2.8 in the future even at the sacrifice of shutter speed. It's all a long journey isn't it?
Tom

User ID

You may have a very suitable lens if you merely dial up a bit more DoF. F/1.4 is a nearly useless aperture ... which acoarst is why it costs extra. Its main job is not capturing images. The real benefit of f/1.4 is aiding low light AF (also MF).

There’s precious little DoF at f/2.8. At f/1.4 there’s basically none. To get faster shutter speeds just double or quadruple your (manual) ISO.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I like f/2 for these 'fast' lenses. But, before the collective experts start dictating apertures to use without being there in the actual lighting of the situation, let's look at some actual results with a slower shutter, lower ISO, a smaller AF group and better overall focus, even if we're reviewing careful focused shots from a tripod. Let's see / prove the lens sharpness at f/1.4 - f/1.8 - /f2.

Photocraig

Using BBF and AI Servo, following motion is challenging work. At the extra narrow Depth of field at f1.8, focus is easy to miss with a tripod mounted camera and a stationary subject. Clearly hand held sports tracking at such an aperture will be an issue.

I used this lens at a Workshop Photoshoot at a Jaguar Dealer. Plenty of light. It focused on the models' eyes perfectly and separated the background, as desired. But the 18-35mm focal length left little working room for portraits, especially using self posing professional models. Those ladies can, at close range, seem very animated. My takes were good, but MY (not the lens') misses were many.

At 2-1/2 pounds on the end of any but the biggest Pro DSLR's is a balance issue issue. If you're going that heavy, why not find a good used 70-200mm f2,8L. Or lighter, an f4"L" version.

For indoor Gymnastics and Dance, unless you're on the stage, your 18-35mm field of view would require severe cropping to make the athlete or dancer fill the frame. I can't imagine using those focal lengths except for a few entire field or stage "Establishing Shots" where, frankly a 24mm lens would do, or even a $100 f1.8 50mm.

Today's cameras and internal processing software are very good at ISO's well above 3200. Post processing noise control SW is effective, too. I carried a GAS torch for this lens for a while. But, it is a specialized tool in my thinking. My GAS sights are now focused elsewhere.
C