Auto ISO (Page 7): I seem to remember my Nikon would try to maintain the lowest ISO, so in your example it would adjust aperture first and only bump ISO when the lens was wide open. I...

JD750 Loc: SoCal

paulrph1 wrote:

I have a question in regards to auto ISO. IS IT THE FIRST TO ADJUST OR THE LAST. e.g. if I am using shutter priority does my camera compensate with the aperture first and then the ISO or is it the reverse?

I seem to remember my Nikon would try to maintain the lowest ISO, so in your example it would adjust aperture first and only bump ISO when the lens was wide open.

I personally don’t use Auto ISO much, I prefer to set ISO myself. However as I mentioned earlier it can be advantageous at times, and I’m not against using auto ISO when it makes sense.

BebuLamar

JD750 wrote:

I seem to remember my Nikon would try to maintain the lowest ISO, so in your example it would adjust aperture first and only bump ISO when the lens was wide open.

I personally don’t use Auto ISO much, I prefer to set ISO myself. However as I mentioned earlier it can be advantageous at times, and I’m not against using auto ISO when it makes sense.

With Nikon Auto ISO is the last. When the light gets dark and you're in Shutter Priority mode it would open up the aperture first until it can't any more before raising the the ISO.
If you use flash it would pick ISO400.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

BebuLamar wrote:

With Nikon Auto ISO is the last. When the light gets dark and you're in Shutter Priority mode it would open up the aperture first until it can't any more before raising the the ISO.
If you use flash it would pick ISO400.

That's what I said.

Interesting about the flash. Didn't know that.

BebuLamar

JD750 wrote:

That's what I said.

Interesting about the flash. Didn't know that.

I just confirmed what you said. I couldn't find the original question to answer to.

User ID

BebuLamar wrote:

I just confirmed what you said. I couldn't find the original question to answer to.

It’s usually found at the top of page one, although sometimes there’s no question to be found. Hope that helps.

Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV

User ID wrote:

Just set the upper ISO high enough for all circumstances and the low ISO only 1/3 EV below the high ISO limit. Then you’re really good to go.

This is very nearly the same as fixed ISO but your exif will show Auto ISO so that you don’t get excommunicated.

Well...that's almost the way it works

And if there's ONE thing I don't want, it's excommunication!!

gessman Loc: Colorado

User ID wrote:

In “dappled light” I always use a constant exposure. I use only the exposure for the good light, not the shadows. I don’t need any perfectly exposed poorly lit images. There’s already plenty of those on UHH, no need to make more :-(

YMMV, but then, thaz *your* problem.

You're right, it's my problem.

scubadoc Loc: Sarasota, FL

R.G. wrote:

A real photographer wants his/her camera to be as undistracting as possible so that he/she can concentrate on the stuff that really matters. So far I haven't found a simpler, less distracting manual mode than M+AutoISO.

If having total control over the exposure is important to you, that's exactly what M+AutoISO+EC gives you.

I don’t know if other mirrorless bodies offer the simplicity of the Canon R5-6. M mode+AutoISO+EC+exposure simulation in the viewfinder are easy to set up and guarantee complete control over the exposure. Since you already know what f-stop and ss you are going to use for a specific scenario, all you need to be concerned with is EC, letting Auto ISO do the heavy lifting.

achesley Loc: SW Louisiana

Love Auto ISO as I do lots of shooting while moving in my vehicle with my G16's. When doing outside and planned, I at times use different ISO's depending on what I'm shooting. Moon and Stars do require higher than normal daytime.

HRBIEL Loc: Rapid City, SD

No, that’s toadally

R.G. Loc: Scotland

scubadoc wrote:

....M mode+AutoISO+EC+exposure simulation in the viewfinder are easy to set up and guarantee complete control over the exposure.....

It sounds like "exposure simulation" might be what others refer to as "live view".

Bridges Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA

avemal wrote:

I would like your thoughts on this subject. I always did this with my choice & it worked well. Saw video on this subject using Auto ISO. Also works well. Any comments will be grateful. Thanks, Allan

I limit it to 1200 to limit noise. I will override manually if necessary.

scubadoc Loc: Sarasota, FL

R.G. wrote:

It sounds like "exposure simulation" might be what others refer to as "live view".

Not really. On DSLRs, Live View is looking at the LCD panel with the mirror up, not really a function that most photographers use except for landscape and studio work. In the mirrorless camera, with exposure simulation turned on, you are looking through the digital viewfinder and seeming exactly how changes in exposure effect the resulting image. It is a great advantage of mirrorless bodies.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Retired CPO wrote:

Yeah Jerry. But when things are happening FAST like birds in flight, gradually raising ISO will give the bird time to disappear over the horizon.

The way around that (and in photography a way around is usually the name of the game) is auto ISO with an upper number programmed.

There are lots of birds in the sky.

I don't take pictures of birds in flight. From what I've read here, there are too many problems.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

jerryc41 wrote:

There are lots of birds in the sky.

I don't take pictures of birds in flight. From what I've read here, there are too many problems.

You get a lot of blurry brown things and also beaks and tails.