avemal Loc: BALTIMORE

I would like your thoughts on this subject. I always did this with my choice & it worked well. Saw video on this subject using Auto ISO. Also works well. Any comments will be grateful. Thanks, Allan

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

AUTO ISO is a gift to photography. Although, it's critical you understand your camera and how to use Exposure Compensation (EC) to 'tell' the camera where to adjust the exposure to the right of the 0-mark.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Whatever works!

I do think people need a good understanding of exposure in order to determine what circumstances warrant setting ISO manually.

Auto ISO is certainly a handy tool for moving subjects that are traveling in and out of shadow. From pro Steve Perry:
https://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/

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Equus Loc: Puget Sound

I agree with Linda from Maine that a good understanding of exposure is a good idea. But I love auto ISO. I am frequently shooting in less than optimal conditions and the auto ISO means that I may get the shot even If it is noisy, OK I am old film school, grainy (and yes I do know the difference.)

reverand

It depends on what kind of photography you're doing. If it's wildlife photography, or action photography, then there's no time to set the ISO: auto-ISO, then, is a gift. You can set a fast shutter speed (it takes at least 1/1500 sec. for birds, for instance), set an aperture (maybe f/11, to make sure you've got enough in focus), and the ISO takes care of itself. With today's cameras, you can go pretty high without getting objectionable noise. I can go to ISO 3200 without seeing much noise, even on 16 x 20 blowups. I can even go to ISO 6400; now I can see the noise, but it's not exactly objectionable. And there ways of reducing it.

For landscape photography, however, it's probably better to set a low ISO just to get the best resolution, and the least noise. Here, you don't need a fast shutter speed, and with vibration control, you can even use a slow shutter speed and get sharp images. I generally shoot running water at 1/15, with small apertures (I sometimes have to set the ISO low). With vibration control, I can get the trees and leaves sharp, but the water looks as if it's moving. A fast shutter speed makes water look like patches of congealed glue.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

If you like what it can do for you, used it.
I don't.
I manually adjust if required/desired.
The use of which is a personal preference.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

"Auto ISO...your thoughts..." Like Linda said... If you have a solid understanding of your kit's potential(s) and Limitation(s) Auto ISO can have considerable merit... Albeit NEVER in a studio scenario! Always Manual ISO there...

So for me who's lion's share of client work is studio I'm likely not using Auto ISO much...

That said, except for shooting sports commercially... More particularly League Soccer... Have clients in this genera...
See below for example of Auto ISO in challenging conditions...

Hope this helps Allan
All the best on your photographic journey
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Nikon D810 with AF-S 200mm-400mm f/4; at 1/2000; f/4; Exposure: Manual with Auto ISO (1/2000 minimum)

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robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

I have used Auto ISO for years. Saves metering and calculating=I use spot meter and put it on the most important part to get it right. Somewhere I still have a hand held 1° Spot Meter I got when I took a class on the Zone System back in the 70's. (Adams was still alive and the professor had met him and learned the basics of the Zone System from him.)

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

If I am doing street photography with my Fuji XT-4, yes Auto ISO is on. If I am shooting Landscape or Astro where I have time to set everything up, then no.

I was once doing nighttime milky way shots at Bodie, California with my Nikon D850, which was relatively new in those days, and wondered why the images were coming out with the sky looking like almost daylight. The camera was on auto ISO and, due to the low light conditions, was at 12,800 or some impossible setting.

JD750 Loc: SoCal

You say it works well for you. The short comment is “If it isn’t broke don’t fix it”.

The longer answer is as with all settings there are “trades” with auto-iso. Learning about those trades will help you decide better when or when not to use it. (What Linda said). So it’s a good question to ask here. I’m sure you will get numerous answers and opinions. Enjoy!

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Simply CANNOT accommodate the idea that my “film speed” could be altered by a robomind. Maybe Auto ISO is mature technology ... but the very idea of it is just toadally alien to me.

My usual mode is full manual exposure, becuz I want settings that stay constant and don’t go changing when changes in framing alter the distribution of dark or light scene elements.

Quixdraw Loc: x

Ribbit, Ribbit,...no, no, that's Frogs!

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Jerrin1 Loc: Wolverhampton, England

I use it virtually all the time for wildlife, the exception is macro/flash photography. Additionally, I have to say, the reply from CHG_Canon is spot on.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

It simply bumps the sensitivity up <for you> if there is insufficient light.
Mostly to get the speed/aperture into the "middle" area.