Spot metering to determine dynamic range of scene (Page 2): I would recommend that you just simply look at the histogram. If the entire scene doesn't fit within the histogram, then use...

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Alphabravo2020 wrote:

I have been wondering if spot metering could be us... (show quote)

I would recommend that you just simply look at the histogram. If the entire scene doesn't fit within the histogram, then use HDR to capture the scene.

texashill Loc: Texas Hill Country

Alphabravo2020 wrote:

I have been wondering if spot metering could be us... (show quote)

The post below from Armadillo has helped me.

Armadillo Joined: Oct 4, 2011 Posts: 2549 Loc: Ventura, CA

Brian Roberts wrote:
I am currently doing interior photos for several local Realtors, and hope to get better results with some advice from UHH. I am using the Canon 5D with a 16-35 'L' lens, set up for aperture priority and post processing with LR5 and Photoshop. My goal is to allow exterior images such as green leaves, trees, etc. to appear through the windows, and believe that HDR might be the answer. Would anyone have any suggestions?

Brian,

You have a tough project in mind, there is a way to resolve your problem. HDR is one choice and will present its own problems.

Setting your camera up for Exposure Compensation is another, and possibly the better choice. Try the following in your own home first.
1. Set the camera up for one - three external flash units controlled by the camera hot shoe. This requires ETTL exposure control.
2. Pick a manual ISO where the flash output will illuminate the entire room ahead of the camera. (ISO = 200 - 400).
3. Set the camera mode control to "Program". This will allow the camera to control the exposure and flash independently.
4. Point the camera out the window, with the center spot exposure box targeted to the bright area (not the sky), and press the back button for exposure lock. This will set the shutter duration for correct exposure out the window.
5. Point the camera "Center Spot Focus" square on the wall to be included in the composition, depress the shutter button half way. This will set focus lock for the scene and set the flash output for the room. The flash output will be controlled by the light measurement of the flash coming (TTL) through the lens.
6. Re-compose the scene in the viewfinder, make sure the center spot metering square is not near the window. Press the shutter button all the way down to capture the scene.

The above recommendations are based on decades old photographic practices with film cameras, but with the addition of modern camera electronic measurements and controls.

Another option you can try for effects is to use Ev (Exposure Compensation Values). You can set the Ev to -.3 to -2Ev to reduce the exposure out the window. You can set the Flash Ev to any where between +2 to -2Ev for effect on the flash exposure.

texashill Loc: Texas Hill Country

I skipped step 1. Step 2 was also not important for me but the rest of it was a game changer.

uhaas2009

A camera don’t have the dynamic range like our eyes. Just saying.
Dark skin difficulty how the light reflects or don’t reflect at all. Cameras seeing 18% gray......a gray card, lightmeter and the zone system are helpful tools

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

rmalarz wrote:

I use TZS 99.9% of the time for exposures. One just has to realize how to use it for digital work.
--Bob

Sentinel4

I usually make images where the subject is readily apparent and meter for the subject using the histogram with warnings.

However, if you want to simplify the exposure process you may want to buy The Confused Photographers Guide to On-Camera Spot Metering ( author- Bahman Farzad). Available at ABE Books for less than $7 used.

Author's One Page Cheat Sheet using aperture priority:

1. Choose a reference tone from the most important part of the subject.
2. Determine aperture and shutter speed for this tone- the 18% gray tone.
3. Decide which of the following will closely match the reference tone: Black, Dark Gray,Medium Gray, Light Gray or White.
4. Once decided choose the setting which closely matches the Reference Tone:
Black: close down aperture by 2 stops
Dark Gray: close down by one stop
Medium Gray: no adjustment- 18% gray
Light Gray: increase aperture by one stop
White: increase aperture by 2 stops

The Fuji system does an job using the on cameral histogram so I am usually pleased with the resulting exposure.

I think this allows the photographer leeway for creativity as well.

Sentinel4

The Fuji system does an excellent

Alphabravo2020

Thanks all for the kindly replies. If there is a way to multiquote let me know. Manually it is a bit tedious.

JD750 wrote:

You dont need to use auto Iso.

Yes, that makes sense if I understand you. I can just half press the shutter button to get a spot meter reading which should save a step and leave the camera in manual ISO.

Orphoto wrote:

Altering iso changes your camera's overall range capacity, sending you into unwanted decision loops.

Ah yes. In that case maybe it would be better to set a base ISO, start in aperture mode, and use the spot metered shutter speeds to calculate the dynamic range of the scene and then set the shutter speed at half scene range above the lowest metered speed.

CHG_CANON wrote:

Are you reviewing your highlight warnings on the camera display? Are you using Exposure Compensation? Are you shooting in JPEG or RAW?

Try practicing two actions:

1) Enable your histogram display, but pay attention to the blinking highlight warnings rather than the graph.

2) Note the position of the meter in the view finder when you achieve your preferred exposure setting.

I'll try some of this. Yes Raw. No I haven't learned EC yet but it sounds promising. I don't necessarily mind OE/UE. I'd like to work out a method to choose what portion of the scene is exposed or OE/UE by metering the chosen high/low with the spot meter. Yes I've been using the OE indicator on review to see if I succeeded.

a6k wrote:

Metering areas of the scene with a spot meter and then exposing according to taste was how Adams did it.

This seems to be the direction I am heading.

Thanks again all.

anotherview Loc: California

I do it this way, too: "Combing (combining) matrix metering with histogram results immediately visible is sufficient information to obtain desired results."

Orphoto wrote:

You have it partly right. Spot metering can tell ... (show quote)

RodeoMan Loc: St Joseph, Missouri

Didn't the Olympus OM3 and OM4 and the Canon T90 have variations of what Canon called multi spot metering where you could take readings from shadow and highlight areas of the scene and the camera would average these readings as they were entered providing the photographer with an "average" reading for the scene.

BebuLamar

RodeoMan wrote:

Didn't the Olympus OM3 and OM4 and the Canon T90 have variations of what Canon called multi spot metering where you could take readings from shadow and highlight areas of the scene and the camera would average these readings as they were entered providing the photographer with an "average" reading for the scene.

Yes I don't know about the T90 but the OM3 and 4 do. But I don't know of any modern camera does that although many hand held spot meters do.

Alphabravo2020

RodeoMan wrote:

Didn't the Olympus OM3 and OM4 and the Canon T90 have variations of what Canon called multi spot metering where you could take readings from shadow and highlight areas of the scene and the camera would average these readings as they were entered providing the photographer with an "average" reading for the scene.

That's exactly the function I am looking for.

topcat Loc: Alameda, CA

I use Manual w/ auto ISO a lot, but that isn't what is causing the problem.
The easy way is to use matrix and take a photo, then look at the back of your camera. Blinkies, dial it down. Histogram too far in one direction, change the controls so that y get what you want.
Modern cameras have a brain, but you have to tell them what to do. Everyone has a working style that is different from another, so experiment until you find your style.