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Apr 28, 2021 08:17:48   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Thanks for mini-tutorial on the use of all capital letters and how they hamper readability.
dsmeltz wrote:
Your efforts are appreciated, however, all caps did not actually achieve your ends while using the tags (as CHG_CANON suggested) very well might have. I think everyone on this has good intentions. I also found the all caps hard to read. For an explanation please see:

"When we read, we don’t actually look at every letter in a sentence, but actually the shapes of the words. When text is in All Caps, the height of every letter is identical making every word an even rectangular shape, forcing us to read letter-by-letter, reducing our reading speed. Take a look at the shapes made by the two words below.

SQUARE Square

The shape of an ALL CAPS word compared to the shape of a Sentence Case word"

From Writing readable content (and why All Caps is so hard to read)
By Marty Friedel
Your efforts are appreciated, however, all caps di... (show quote)

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Apr 28, 2021 08:58:12   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
anotherview wrote:
Thanks for mini-tutorial on the use of all capital letters and how they hamper readability.


And yet "HOLLYWOOD" works just fine!

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Apr 28, 2021 09:15:57   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
There was another important one that George Mitchell taught me when I first started taking photos... take your time and do it right, speed will come with practice.

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Apr 28, 2021 09:26:17   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Sound advice.
Dikdik wrote:
There was another important one that George Mitchell taught me when I first started taking photos... take your time and do it right, speed will come with practice.

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Apr 28, 2021 09:32:53   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
I just realised, that's the first I've thought of George in decades; I wonder how he's doing or if he is even still alive.

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Apr 28, 2021 09:35:02   #
NaniR Loc: Vero Beach, FL
 
Thank you!

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Apr 28, 2021 09:39:29   #
NaniR Loc: Vero Beach, FL
 
Thank you!

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Apr 28, 2021 09:41:07   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
Dikdik wrote:
There was another important one that George Mitchell taught me when I first started taking photos... take your time and do it right, speed will come with practice.


Which, oddly, I learned from a pianist. A pianist practices the physical movements required by a piece over and over and over again until they do not have to think about the physical movements. Then they can concentrate on the really important stuff. This is why changing camera systems can be so hard. Once your hands know where all the buttons are and what they do, working the instrument to get your result becomes automatic. Switching to a whole different layout can be devastating.

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Apr 28, 2021 09:44:49   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
dsmeltz wrote:
Which, oddly, I learned from a pianist. A pianist practices the physical movements required by a piece over and over and over again until they do not have to think about the physical movements. Then they can concentrate on the really important stuff. This is why changing camera systems can be so hard. Once your hands know where all the buttons are and what they do, working the instrument to get your result becomes automatic. Switching to a whole different layout can be devastating.



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Apr 28, 2021 11:29:18   #
Paul Diamond Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
 
burkphoto wrote:
Your camera is reasonably capable, considering it was introduced in 2010 if it is the T2i model. You didn't say what lens you have, but how you USE that lens is probably more important than the lens itself. Any camera and lens can be used best under certain conditions. Here are a few tips:

Use a tripod and a remote release or a self timer... These tools steady the camera. The best lens on a shaky camera still yields blurry images.

CLEAN the front and rear elements of your lens... ANY film, dust, or dirt on a lens can reduce contrast, add flare, change colors... and reduce apparent sharpness.

Use a lens hood/lens shade... This will help avoid flare from direct light hitting the lens from sources just outside the frame. Flare reduces contrast (and apparent sharpness).

Use a moderate aperture... The smallest apertures on your lens should be considered "for emergency use only." Yes, they give you greater depth of field. But they also contribute diffraction, which gradually reduces sharpness as you stop down. Every sensor size and density has a slightly different "diffraction limiting aperture," or the point at which theoretical diffraction begins. As you stop down further from that, diffraction presents itself visually. On my 16MP Micro 4/3 camera, diffraction limiting starts to reduce sharpness about f/6.3. On my old APS-C 15MP Canon EOS 50D, it became visible at f/9. On my old full frame 21MP Canon 5D II, it became visible at f/13. Stopping down one stop from those points put each camera in the "annoying" reduction of sharpness category. Stopping down two stops from those points reduced sharpness to unacceptable levels for subjects with fine details (group photos of 200 people, for example).

Get a depth-of-field calculator application for your smartphone or computer... Used correctly, it will help you choose an aperture that records required depth-of-field without diffraction limiting of sharpness.

For JPEGs created in the camera, adjust the menu settings... You do have some control over how sharp your camera-processed JPEGs are. The Sharpness setting is the most obvious. But Picture Styles and Contrast also play roles. Play with them all to see what you like!

Be sure you are saving the largest size files at the highest quality setting (i.e.; the lowest compression ratio)... In 2021, there is absolutely no reason to save anything smaller! Memory cards, hard drives, and SSD storage are all quite affordable now.

Consider learning post-processing techniques... Recording raw data files and processing them on a computer to create precisely the JPEGs you wish to create can greatly improve overall image quality, not just sharpness!

Provided you calibrate and profile your computer monitor, I would not be afraid of post-processing software. It may look intimidating, with all the controls it provides, but you learn by opening a raw file and just trying each control. You can't hurt a raw file! All changes can be undone or redone. Canon Digital Photo Professional (usually a free download from Canon's site, with your serial number) is a good place to start.
Your camera is reasonably capable, considering it ... (show quote)


I read through all the replies before adding my suggestions. These (above) are very good.

I've used old Canon and Nikon digitals. If you want to upgrade your pictures to give you the quality you see from other people's shots now, you will have to work on shooting technique, pay close attention to the scene/subject, lighting, equipment and post processing.

If you do all of these but stay with your kit lenses and 10-20 year old digital technology, you will not be happy with the results. The camera and lens technology you have just can't deliver what you want.

You will need to work on your technique. I think a page of newsprint on an outside sunlight wall is a great start. Learn when slower shutter speeds begin to affect your ability to take sharp, contrasty, in focus pictures. Shoot at all shutter speeds and see the results. Also test your camera's lenses and different f/ stops to see how poor large apertures are, how much better moderate apertures are and what you begin to lose in resolution/sharpness as you use the smallest f/ stops on each lens. - So, what shutter speed is too low or needs more caution if you use it so your photos don't appear less sharp? What apertures for each lens (and what focal lengths for each zoom) give you the best, sharpest looking pictures? When do you need a tripod?

Pictures of low contrast, cloudy overcast, shots in the shade, etc. will always appear less crisp than direct lighting. Even post processing may have some effect on the image, but it is at risk of looking 'fake' if overdone.

You will have to learn at least one software package to help you do post processing. Look on prior UHH posts to help find replies to different free or affordable software. BUT, you will have to invest time in learning the software, how to use it and practice with it on your pictures. Some software packages have a very 'steep' learning curve. And some are much easier at a basic level. Research a package to try. Is your computer (memory/storage/graphics card) capable of working with this software? And use youtube to see videos for the software for 'lessons' about using the software you are interested in.

When you decide on needing 'new' camera gear, plan to invest a lot of time up front. I won't point you toward any particular brand. I will suggest that you look for avoiding new and to approach the 'best' with some caution. New photo gear is like getting a new car. There is substantial depreciation if you buy new. I would think of a camera system (camera and lenses) that give me great sharpness and contrast results that is lightly used and 1 generation less than the latest 'bleeding edge' technology that some UHHers are salivating over. Any of these, regardless of brand, will also have a learning curve that requires you to learn so you can grow.

So, you can not 'leapfrog' from where you are to where you want to go. I hope you are willing to invest in getting and being better. Almost everyone who makes the full effort can improve and get better. If doing it is important enough to you.

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Apr 28, 2021 14:04:52   #
dreff Loc: Bow, WA
 
Do you use the kit lens?

I've seen results from that lens that appear soft and sort of fogged or washed out.

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Apr 28, 2021 15:38:45   #
brontodon
 
For the OP:

Ken Rockwell on getting sharp photographs:
https://kenrockwell.com/tech/unsharp.htm

And on lens sharpness:
https://kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm

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Apr 30, 2021 10:55:34   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
SuperflyTNT wrote:
ALL CAPS DID NOTHING TO IMPROVE READABILITY


They seldom work, except when just a FEW WORDS are in all caps.

Better are bold face, or italics.

The tags you need to enter to use bold, italic, underlined, strikethrough, colors, links, etc. are available by clicking (Show Tags), next to the 'Send' and 'Preview' buttons.

Those options are visible when using the 'Reply' or 'Quote Reply' buttons to respond to a person.

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Apr 30, 2021 10:57:49   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
burkphoto wrote:
They seldom work, except when just a FEW WORDS are in all caps.

Better are bold face, or italics.

The tags you need to enter to use bold, italic, underlined, strikethrough, colors, links, etc. are available by clicking (Show Tags), next to the Send and Preview buttons.

Those options are visible when using the 'Quote Reply' button to respond to a person.


Some people don't realise that it's common 'Internet parlance' that upper case letters is equivalent to 'shouting', and it's not just the difficulty in reading the text. It's 'polite' not to shout.

Dik

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Apr 30, 2021 11:21:50   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Dikdik wrote:
Some people don't realise that it's common 'Internet parlance' that upper case letters is equivalent to 'shouting', and it's not just the difficulty in reading the text. It's 'polite' not to shout.

Dik


Agreed. Insurance companies and attorneys often resort to all caps when they don't want people to read something. It's an old trick, but it often works!

Some other things, besides all caps, that make people quit or avoid reading:

> Extremely small fonts or excessively large fonts in all caps
> Sans-Serif fonts like Arial, Helvetica
> Long line lengths or excessive column widths
> Long line lengths of fully justified text (text that is spaced evenly on each line)
> No paragraph breaks where needed to separate complete thoughts
> Extremely long, run-on sentences
> No capitalization or punctuation
> Polysyllabic phraseology (the use of big words when simpler ones will do)
> Using light gray or yellow ink for text
> Using solid red text on a solid blue background
> Using light colored ink on darker paper of the same color hue
> Inserting random spaces in the middle of words
> Deliberate use of bad grammar and syntax

These are from my notes from a college English class! Our professor was as concerned about our form as he was our future applications of language at work! "You might be asked to write something deliberately obfuscatory... Here are some techniques." None of them is illegal, but all are at least annoying or misleading.

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