Bad Switch?
Apr 22, 2021 13:09:02 #
jerryc41 wrote:
Thanks. So my testing was worse than unnecessary. 
It made me think there was a problem. I'll finish the wiring and try it out.
It made me think there was a problem. I'll finish the wiring and try it out.It at least caused you more confusion, if it is indeed a contactor.
(I didn't look at any specs.)
Apr 22, 2021 14:23:41 #
A good way to test if it is in fact a contactor, set it up, turn something on (start it),
unplug from the wall,
wait a few seconds,
plug back in the wall.
If it does not run when plugged back in, it's a contactor (of sorts).
If it starts running when plugged back in, it's not a contactor.
unplug from the wall,
wait a few seconds,
plug back in the wall.
If it does not run when plugged back in, it's a contactor (of sorts).
If it starts running when plugged back in, it's not a contactor.
Apr 23, 2021 06:32:52 #
aphelps wrote:
It is not a 220 switch which would have two hot terminals. This is a safety switch which, when tripped, removes the load entirely from the lines. Like pulling the plug. Check the resistance (not just continuity) across the output terminals. If it is not zero ohms but something a little higher I would suspect a pilot light as above. Power it up. Do not bypass the neutrals. Wire it as shown in the diagram.
I agree, I used to do Lock Out Tag Out for 220 & 440 machines, we would pad lock the breakers, disconnect all leads to switch, and even then we would hit the on button/switch to discharge any latent current. OSHA stuff.
I have the same switch for my router table. I went to a duplex from the switch within the cabinet for easy removal of the router. In lieu of wiring directly into router. I use several different HP routers, so it makes it easier to swap them out.
Apr 23, 2021 07:01:45 #
tcthome
Loc: NJ
You are putting the meter across the 2 terminals on the left side(top-bottom)only? T/F
Apr 23, 2021 07:07:53 #
tcthome
Loc: NJ
It would need some type of latching to keep the power on after you remove your finger from the switch. 
Apr 23, 2021 07:58:41 #
aphelps
Loc: Central Ohio
tcthome wrote:
It would need some type of latching to keep the power on after you remove your finger from the switch.
It has an electromagnet to latch only when power is available.
Apr 23, 2021 08:05:40 #
tcthome wrote:
It would need some type of latching to keep the power on after you remove your finger from the switch.
In a contactor it's called a relay.
Apr 23, 2021 10:30:38 #
paulrph1
Loc: Washington, Utah
Longshadow wrote:
Bad switch?
Also, wouldn't they cover the "start" button (usually green) and leave the "stop" button open for quick access?
Also, wouldn't they cover the "start" button (usually green) and leave the "stop" button open for quick access?
I have one on my table saw and it is only really a quick stop switch. The design is to make it extremely easy and fast to stop the saw. You can even bump it with you hip to turn it off. Turning it on takes a more concerted effort. You have to manually know what you are doing to push the green button.
Apr 23, 2021 11:02:54 #
paulrph1 wrote:
I have one on my table saw and it is only really a quick stop switch. The design is to make it extremely easy and fast to stop the saw. You can even bump it with you hip to turn it off. Turning it on takes a more concerted effort. You have to manually know what you are doing to push the green button.
Apr 23, 2021 11:34:16 #
Dave Fielding
Loc: Lake Elsinore, California
jerryc41 wrote:
I'm building a router table, and I want to use the switch below. Checking the continuity, I always get a positive indication between the top two terminals - output. It doesn't matter if the switch is turned on or off. There are two terminals on the bottom for power in, and two on the top for power out, black wire on the left in both cases.
Hi Jerry, I have a suggestion for you, if your testing the switch with a digital meter the internals may show continuity (automotive testing has a big problem with this as in light bulb or some other something). Get an old analog meter( with a needle) and retest it, been down this road years ago sometimes digital can cause problems on mechanical switches, relays and such. good luck
Apr 23, 2021 13:09:47 #
Longshadow wrote:
Bad switch?
Also, wouldn't they cover the "start" button (usually green) and leave the "stop" button open for quick access?
Also, wouldn't they cover the "start" button (usually green) and leave the "stop" button open for quick access?
..
Apr 23, 2021 13:38:42 #
letmedance wrote:
..
Yea, a few other people told me how that particular switch works.
That you can't see from the image posted...
Guess they all didn't read the entire thread.
Apr 23, 2021 15:10:05 #
Jerry, Doesn't your state law require that ALL ELECTRICAL WORK be done by a licensed electrician? I suggest you find out before attempting to install it yourself.
Apr 23, 2021 22:23:48 #
RayWarren54
Loc: Champaign,il
If that is the same switch Powertec 71054 I looked at on Amazon,it is a magnetic switch and the coil for the holding relay is across 14 and 24 so the dc resistance should be very low ,basically measuring the resistance of the wire.Most continuity detectors will show this as a short.If you are ok with electricity,You can test it with power connected to the input from a power strip and nothing connected to the output just to see if it trips the breaker on the power strip and has voltage at the output terminals
Apr 24, 2021 07:52:28 #
I got it fully wired, and it works fine! I like the added safety of the magnetic feature. For $10, it's a good deal. Prices vary wildly on these things.
Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for all your help.
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