Wrongway Loc: Hewitt Texas

Exactly my point all because it is there doesn’t mean you have to use it

TreborLow

I also have a K-3 (not II) with built in flash. Lately been using it with a spring frame diffuser right on my macro lens for super closeups. Can hand hold and the flash stops movement of flowers and bugs. While I might consider a camera without a built-in flash, I really do like it.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Fill flash with exposure compensation is very useful outdoors, taking into consideration such things as subject distance and dynamic range of natural lighting along with desired outcome.

Kozan Loc: Trenton Tennessee

I disagree. Daylight flash does not have to be powerful at all if you are just trying to fill in shadows. Many times I have used flash in the daylight at -2 or -3 EV. That's just enough to lighten the subject so that it looks good.
There's a big difference in the quality of the image with daylight flash. I almost always use it.

The trick to using daylight flash is to use it so that it doesn't look like you used flash. If you do that you will have a great photo. It's like makeup on a woman. If you notice it, there's too much.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

It is rare to use a flash outside except for fill in when needed. About the only time I use one is if I'm shooting flowers or something in the shadows I'll use the on camera flash the built-in for fill in. And on a bright day in the shadows it's just enough for fill in.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

"The trick to using daylight flash is to use it so that it doesn't look like you used flash."

Duh!

DebAnn Loc: Toronto

Sometimes it's a very useful tool when shooting into the sun. It can make a portrait much better. I've used it during wedding photography.

Real Nikon Lover Loc: Simi Valley, CA

Here are a couple of OOC shots taken (my 3 daughters) with a Nikon D850 and Nikon SB-800 Speedlight used as a fill flash in shadows of pine trees in bright sunlight. Location was Big Bear Lake, CA about 2 weeks ago. The D850 has no built in flash. I also have SB-5000 speedlights with radio controls for off camera use and a pocket sized Nikon SB-400 speedlight for quick fill in a pinch.

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GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Thanks. In the future, use a link.
They can be really helpful.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-497975-1.html#8396280
Below is another example off-camera flash using high-speed sync (1/500th at f/4)

Below that, on-camera flash (Godox V1)

off-camera flash

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on-camera flash (Godox V1)

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on-camera flash, bounced

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srg

That is a great portrait photo.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I use flash out in daylight far more often than in dark situations... mostly because I usually stop shooting when it's dark! But also because fill flash during midday on sunny, clear days can be very helpful eliminating deep shadows. It also can be essential for backlit situations. For example:



You ask about "On-Camera" flash... Just to clarify:

1. I virtually never use any camera's "built in" flash (I don't think you're referring to that, but someone might read it that way). Built-ins are quite weak, located in the worst possible place for redeye and ugly shadows, slow to recycle and draw heavily on the camera's battery. In other words... built-in flash really suck. I only use accessory flash, which solve most or all those problems. I didn't write an unequivocal "never" above because I may have used a built-in flash in an "emergency"... But really can't remember the last time I needed to do that. In fact, it was a couple years before I discovered the built-in flash on one of my cameras was stuck and wouldn't pop up. That tells you how often I use them (and I only discovered the problem because I accidentally pressed the button to open the flash... not because I was actually trying to use it). I almost always carry an accessory flash with me. There's at least one in each of my camera bags and I have a separate bag full of additional flashes and flash-related accessories.

2. I almost never put a flash directly in my camera's hot shoe. Instead I mount it on a flash bracket off to the side and raised higher up. This makes for much better flash effects... less redeye, nicer shadow effects. I use an off-camera shoe cord to connect the flash to the hot shoe, so otherwise it works exactly the same as if the flash were in the hot shoe. I have several flash brackets. The longer the lens focal length and farther away the subject, the taller a flash bracket needs to be... i.e., the more distance the flash needs to be away from the lens axis to reduce/prevent redeye. With 24-70mm lens, for example, I use a cheap ($25) no-name bracket I bought new... probably off eBay. It's nothing special, but works fine. I also have a couple modular Wimberley flash brackets designed for use with larger telephotos. They clamp onto the Arca-style dovetail of the lens plate on the tripod foot of those lenses. The reason I use them is they position the flash more accurately, which can be important with telephotos. A third type I use is the Manfrotto that's adjustable for height. It's pretty large and heavy, but can be necessary when using a flash at quite a distance with a fairly powerful telephoto (300mm, 400mm, 500mm). Often with those lenses I'm also using a flash extender, which is a Fresnel lens that's positioned in front of the flash to concentrate its output for greater reach.

Today using cameras with more exposure latitude I am using flash less often. I can often "correct" shadow problems in post-processing now. But flash also can add a "catch light" to people's and animals' eyes. Eyes without a catch light make the subject look "dead".

Miamark Loc: Florida

I bought a Flashpoint Mini for my Fuji xt2. In the forty years that I have been taking pictures, I rarely use a flash. Here comes the however. I found that the Flashpoint adds a nice catchlight when taking portraits outside. It is very easy to use. Point the flash straight up and a small white card can be pulled up for a catchlight. Also, the flash cones with a nice diffuser.

k2edm Loc: FN32AD

I do, kills the deep shadows & I let the camera worry about the exposure...

Ralanco19

Best way I know to control ambient background AND separately control light on main subject for maximum control of the image is using flash (indoors AND outdoors.). Two separate exposures giving many variations in the final image, even with same composition. Keep perfect desired exposure (including direction of light and intensity of light) on the subject, and then separately control background ambience in numerous ways including from blowing out the background by overexposing, to getting a natural background with a natural control of ambient light, to under exposing background by a stop letting the subject with flash exposure in foreground pop a little, to making a totally black background with perfectly lighted subject in foreground. With flash outdoors, you have MAXIMUM control of an image. Set the flash intensity just right for the foreground subject, then set the ambient exposure with “correct” ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed. Then by merely slowing the shutter, you can get an overexposed, even white, background. Increase shutter speed, and you get “perfect” ambient background exposure. Increase the shutter speed even more, you can get all the way to totally black background ... all the while, keeping a “perfect” exposure on the foreground subject with the flash exposure. Not use a flash outdoors (on camera or off)? Can’t even think of considering NOT using flash outdoors for MAXIMUM control of the light all around, and multiple different images in the same composition.

edrobinsonjr Loc: Boise, Idaho

I use the built in flash quite often when taking flowers an the like outdoors. Quite often I find a good opportunity in the shade.

Ed