bvargas Loc: Palm Harbor, Florida

Go for a used lens or off brand lens. f2.8 IS, is a must.

acutance Loc: New Hampshire

I'm not sure why the fuss about IS is when shooting fast moving sports. Sure, if shooting a landscape, you can use slower shutter speeds, but sports subjects will blur at slower shutter speeds, even if the overall shot appears sharp. When I shoot sports, I like to be shooting at 1/500 or better, and at those speeds, I don't think IS is adding much. From your sample, it appears you are shooting young kids, on small fields, and can get close. For high school and up, I find the longer reach of a 100-400mm zoom is necessary. As the autumn light wanes, the sports shooter has a real predicament. To keep fast shutter speeds you need high ISO (producing noise) or very expensive, fast glass that will keep your bank account light, and your arms tired, while reducing your "reach," because the lenses aren't as long. Short depth of field at wide apertures is also an issue. My own approach is to get there early, and nail down your shots while the light is good. The 70-200 f/4 is a great lens that I use for "soccer kids," and you don't need IS.

Sony A77, ISO 800, 1/640, f/7.1, 135mm

oldtool2 Loc: South Jersey

No, not necessarly. What is more important is the speed you are shooting. An old rule of thumb, but a good rule, is if you are shooting faster than your barrel length shut off the IS, it is not needed. Using IS can often cause more headaches than not using it. The f2.8 is on my 50D most of the time and I rarely use the IS feature.

Jim D

TaraMar Loc: Kingston, RI

I have had a completely different experience. The 70-200mm f/4 without IS was the very first lens I bought and I love it! I don't use it very often because I also have the 100-400mm with IS but did use the lens a couple of months ago to shoot the Pacers at Scarborough Downs race track. I hand held the camera and got some amazing stop action shots of the horses with all 4 feet off the ground and also got some pretty good panning shots to show motion blur. The images are sharp and the lens was pretty fast. I also have a 7D.

oldtool2 Loc: South Jersey

Yes, but try to find a EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM

Used EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM IS are available because so many professionals have upgraded to the version II lens. It is defiantly a good option. Here is a photo taken early morning, low light, cloudy, foggy and misting. Granted now action but the conditions were really lousey! I would not have gotten this shot with the f4.0 lens.

Jim D

Hershel Loc: New York City

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Telephoto Zoom Lens
At B&H Photo today- $2,165.00 - Free Shipping

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/680103-USA/Canon_2751B002_EF_70_200mm_f_2_8L_IS.html

Hope this helps.

Hershel K. Waldner
B&H Photo, Video, Pro Audio

Straightshooter Loc: Edmonton AB

There are right now a couple on Ebay $1280 and$1350 the $1350 one is new they are L lens 70-200- 2.8

Mashubi1 Loc: Salem, Oregon

I shoot a Pentax which has in camera SR (shake reduction) but bought this Tamron 70-200mm 2.8 like this lens a bigh bunch. I realize the cost of Canon "L" lenses are more money and very fast glass but this Tamron lens has had great reviews. just a thought.

http://scottkelby.com/2010/my-shoot-with-the-tamron-70-200mm-f2-8/

rodpark2 Loc: Dallas, Tx

Looking at your shots the one thing I'd say is that wide open at F4.0 your depth of field will be very shallow and only one kid is likely to be in focus. The problem will be even more so with the 2.8. I have both lenses in the non IS version and they are equally sharp, maybe a tiny bit better for the 4.0. This is as difficult as it gets, low light, action, several different subjects at varying distances, etc. The focus set up in the menus is a good place to experiment. I prefer center spot AF. I'd shoot at ISO 1600 and use a monopod, also. I shoot HS sports and it is difficult, but getting to know the camera is a must.

Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA

Turtles2,

I don't think you made a mistake, rather you limited yourself in capture opportunities.

On the whole the sales clerk may be right when comparing the two lens, but she ignored the primary subject for the new lens. Children are moving targets.

The lens you purchased has reduced the amount of light that can strike the photo sensor, hereby requiring a slower shutter speed, and that in turn allows soft focus and motion blur in the capture.

For the lens you looked at with your neighbor you do not need IS. Remember you need maximum light and fast shutter speed to capture moving children. IS is best used when shooting still subjects, and hand holding the camera; IS is designed to stabilize the image when the camera moves slightly, not the subject of the capture.

Returning the lens in exchange for the better lens is up to the store policy on sales. If they want to keep you as a long range customer they would be happy to exchange the lens for the difference in cost between the two lens. Make sure you have kept all the original packaging material and and user instructions, without those the exchange would be "0". Under these conditions the store can re-sell the lens at a discount as a slightly used product, and be honest with all concerned parties.

Keep in mind that IS is used for camera to subject movement (your hand holding the camera), a larger Aperture (more light), faster shutter speed, and higher ISO can overcome camera movement issues. (At the moment just before pressing the shutter button, exhaling your breath and holding it gently you can get great captures at 1/60sec.)

Michael G

Jer Loc: Mesa, Arizona

I shoot photos for a newspaper.
I handhold and do not use the IS my lens have. I learned that in certain instances they actually degrade the photo. IS is designed to minimize your movement from holding the camera at slow shutter speeds. The 2.8 will help you at night or in low light. At 2.8 or F/4 your depth of field will be very shallow.
With a 300mm lens under the lights, I'm shooting at a 1/500 to 1/750 a second. I don't know what camera you have. I'm shooting at a very high iso (6400 or 12,800). My camera can handle these with relatively low noise and the 6400's look very good when published.
Notice that I use a prime lens. I have the 70 to 200mm IS. Love the lens but don't use it for sports.
The IS has given me problems in midday daylight. For example, when I was taking photos of the huddle event. With a 300mm prime with IS on the runners were fuzzy. With the IS off, tact sharp. Both at 1,000 sec. I just took horse race photos at 1/2000, no IS...tack sharp. IS has a problem with fast moving objects. If the objects are fairly still and you shutter speed is lower that the focal length of you lens, then IS works pretty well.
If you on a monopod or tripod you can't use IS anyway.
Also, you said you were on aiservo but what focal points were you using. Most photographers I know, use only one. If you use multiple points, you run the risk of one of those points focusing on something you don't want.
Are you shooting day or night photos. With your camera the day photos shouldn't be any problem.

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

Of course you made a mistake and you should had known better. You knew you would be shooting in low light conditions for which the f/2.8 is better suited for. In regard to the f/2.8 not having IS, you could have solved it with a monopod or tripod.
Go back to the store and exchange it today.

Jer Loc: Mesa, Arizona

I agree with Photogator.

jimberton Loc: Michigan's Upper Peninsula

definitely agree...i have the 70-200mm2.8 OS sigma for canon and nikon. i love this lens. very sharp.

when i shoot sports, i do not use OS (or IS)....if the subject is moving...IS or OS is not going to help. get that shutter speed up as high as you can and you will stop motion. if i am inside in bad lighting..i jack up the ISO to 1600 to 3200 and make sure my shutter speed is as high as i can get it.

IS or OS helps with your shake...nothing to do with the subject if it is moving.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Shooting sports - you do NOT need IS. You should be able to turn up the ISO to at least 1600 without image degradation. From an exposure standpoint, the 1 stop speed increase with the 2.8 is practically negligible and you will loose some DOF - but maybe more importantly, it will give you marginally faster and more accurate AF and later if you want more magnification, you can put a 2X behind it and still have AF. You can pick up the older 80-200 Canon on e-Bay for around $800 - as sharp or sharper than the newer ones. The 70-200 F4 is a GREAT lens !